Buying Advice Help cure ignorance....mine

   / Help cure ignorance....mine #21  
I started out looking at the Mahindra 4025, Kubota L3200DT, L3800DT and L3800HST. John Deere and Bobcat were to pricey around here. While driving by the MF dealer, I noticed a nice looking tractor. I ended up with a MF2605. The specs seemed to point to MF and they also had the lowest price at the time. I was leaning towards Kubota L3800DT and had rented one for a day and it was nice. Another plus for me was the MF 135 I had was a good machine. Only have 30 hours on the 2605 but it out preforms the L3800 that I rented.
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #22  
I'm in the market for my first small tractor (35-45 HP, 4WD) to do some tree/ground clearing on the 4 acres around my house. While I have operated a tractor (a friend's CAT 410) for a couple of days, I'm by no means an "old hand". We have the following dealers in town: Kubota, John Deere and Case. I visited Kubota and JD today, Case was closed. If a Kubota, I'm leaning toward the L3800 or maybe the L4600/MX4700 (definately on the large side of what I think I need). They had a nice L3940, but I don't think the approximately $10K for cab and fancy stuff is where I want to go.

John Deere had absolute no tractors in the showroom. They have a 4005 with manual trans in their other store (350 miles south). Look at the data, it doesn't seem like a bad machine at all. I will most likely be using this in a way that will require a lot of back-forth. How big an annoyance is the "manual" transmission? The Deere dealer was much more personable and knowldgeabe than the Kubota dealer. Although the Deere guy said that all the manufacturer's machines are pretty close, it's the attachemetns you need to look at. He specifically mentioned the capacity of the FEL that the Kubota's maybe a little weak. Humm. Looking at the spec sheet the JD 4005 with the 300CX FEL can lift 1256 lbs at full height. While the Kubota L3800 will 1490 lbs, the L4600 will do 1684 lbs and the MX4700 is rated at 1874 lbs. He did mention that JD is now making the dealers pay for shippment to Alaska which is drive up the price about $1,500. This would not apply to the tractor in stock. Kubota makes you pay the freight and has assembly charges.

I have no brand loyalites. Although I will say I really don't want to buy a Chineese product. Given how much / hard I'll use this, it will be my one and only tractor purchase, so I want to get it right. Any thoughts out there about yanmar 4-clynder v. Kubota 3-clynder (4 for hte MX4700) engines? Is HST a "must have" or just really nice?

Thanks in advance,

John

For dealing with trees and stumps, you cant beat a tractor with a backhoe (except for an excavator that is). I have removed hundreds of trees from my property to thin them out for proper growth. I started out pushing them over with a 45HP tractor with FEL and bushhogging them up for the stuff up to 3-4" diameter but that left stubble sticking up and sprouting back from the roots for the gum trees. Finally I got a small TLB, Kubota B26, and in a short while I manicured the creek banks and thickets by selective harvesting of the trees than needed removing. I couldn't do this with the FEL as many times I had to take out trees that I needed to keep in order to get to ones to remove. With the backhoe, I just reached out and plucked the ones I wanted and with the hydraulic thumb, lifted them out and stacked them for easy transport to a burn pile. A backhoe is about a $7500 additional cost to a regular tractor and might be better as a rental for your needs but definitely should be considered for use in your woods clean up. I would say that an HST tractor is a useful component in FEL work although I have HST (B26 TLB) and standard transmission (LS P7010) tractors and both have FEL and both work well. HST is a lot easier on the legs and arms than the clutch and shuttle shifter though. The cab cost in the lower 48 runs about $4500 extra so I am not sure what you were getting for the $10K unless AK prices are substantially different. The problem is that most CUT and Utility tractors with a backhoe, they cant fit a cab and I don't know that I would want one for backhoe work although many full sized commercial backhoes do come with cabs. On my P 7010, the cab substantially limits visibility when using the FEL and requires lots of "operation by feel" rather than seeing what you are doing especially when sunlight glare is on the windows, but a cab is nice when its cold and snowing or just dry and dusty. It sure keeps the bugs off of you also.
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Wow, three pages of replies over night, you guys are really helpful, thanks.

I'm less worried about the winter operations as I would move snow when it is warm (10 below or warmer). Wouldn't do it this morning (-38.5F at the house). Bugs are a concern. If you've ever stepped on undisturbed AK tundra, the mosquitos will come up like a cloud coming out of the ground. Good times had by none.

I think there is a dealer down in Wasilla (6.5 hour drive south) that sells the LS line. I would like to have dealer support a bit closer. The Kubota dealar has an L3940 on the lot I drove last week, pretty nice (like I know exactly what "nice" means at this point).

The suggestion of having the tree removal done, then use the small tractor isn't bad. Removing tress and clearing are much different than working it after it's gone. Two differenct set of requirements. My thought was I have time, this is my home project, not a working farm or commerical venture. So, if it takes me longer, it takes me longer. The BH seems like the best way to get stumps and big roots out. Interestingly, the Deere dealer tried to talk me out of buying a BH. He said alot of his customers buy them and don't really use them. Guess that means there should be a bunch out there a guy could get at a reasonalbe price.

Now you've got me back to the Cab with HST / HST+. Who knew selecting a utility tractor would be so complicated?

Luckily, I'm not under any pressure to make a rash decison. More studying / test driving ahead.

Thanks to all,

John
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #24  
<Luckily, I'm not under any pressure to make a rash decison. More studying / test driving ahead. >

Definitely take your time. Shopping is fun!:thumbsup:
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #25  
Al tho I like diesel best, in your climate, I would consider a gas burner. Unless it is stored inside where u can put a block heater for cold weather starts.
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #26  
There is a guy out Knik that sells the LS name is Randy seems like a very nice dealer. Also Pioneer equipment sells New Holland in Palmer. I drive by Craig Taylor everyday they have two tractors on the lot the 4005 and one smaller one. When I got this tractor I shopped them and ESI in Anchorage I went with the 75 mile drive versus the 2.5 mile for a reason. Whatever you choose I would recommend R1s instead of the R4s and get them loaded right away. Also if you are running in the black spruce stop and get a roll of duct tape and some visqueen to replace the windows if you get a cab. Happy Trails Matt
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #27  
Al tho I like diesel best, in your climate, I would consider a gas burner. Unless it is stored inside where u can put a block heater for cold weather starts.
The intake air heater system that comes on the 5xxxx series JDs works really well for cold starts. So well that the money I spent on the plug in block heater is probably a total waste. Up in Seward's ice box with extension cords that reach in short supply it might be just the thing.
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #28  
Wow, three pages of replies over night, you guys are really helpful, thanks.

I'm less worried about the winter operations as I would move snow when it is warm (10 below or warmer). Wouldn't do it this morning (-38.5F at the house).

Thanks to all,

John

You're welcome John. -10 is warm? Good grief, that's anything but warm in my book. You must be a youngster with thick blood!

Shopping is fun!:thumbsup:

So is spending the OP's money! :laughing:
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine
  • Thread Starter
#29  
MJNCAD,

Ten below is cold if you're approaching it from warmer temps. When you go through a couple of -40 to -50 spells, it seems nice.

LuPai: The Craig Taylor guy mentioned they have one 4005 in the state, must be that one. It has the maunal trans, which I would like to drive a bit before deciding one way or another. A guy I work with bought a Branson 66 HP last fall with manual trans. I'll have to drive his a bit. Typcial of Alaska, he drove from here to Tennessee to get the trailer, then to Oklahoma to get the tractor and implements, then home. 10 days and 9000 miles and still less expensive than buying in State. Doubtless the retail price of the Branson v. Kubota, JD, Case had a lot to do with that.

Have the duct tape and visqueen (and blue tarps, and spray foam) as every Alaskan does. Don't they kick you out if you don't?

If anybody is still reading this, another question: I noticed the manual trans units tend to have a planetary gear final drive, while the HSTs have a spur gear. Is one preferred over the other? I would think they both work, or no one would buy the inferior style.

John
 
   / Help cure ignorance....mine #30  
Our temps in the Denver area can range from -25 (rare) to 105 (100 is more common); but I stay off the tractor if the temps are below 50 unless I have a lot of snow or other pressing matter that needs attention. I said I'm a weather wimp.
 
 
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