Good point about not needing to take to dealer often. Y'all have me looking into bigger tractors now daggumit lol! My main use will be mowing but I enjoy doing ground engaging work (even if it doesn't need it!). Maybe I can get one of these scuts for a weekend to test. Gittyup what do you think about the larger heavier tractors tearing up my grass since mowing will eventually be main use?
Comparison JD 1026 vs Kioti CS2410 - 2.5 acres
- Thread starter JMER
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Gittyup
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If you have open space, they can be as good as a smaller lighter machine. The smaller CUTS (like the CT122 and a few others), would be OK on grass as long as not using AG tires. In fact, unless operating in slippery terrain, I would suggest turf tires. They are actually better on pavement for snow and least hard on the grass as they distribute the tractor weight better.
I would be more worried about compaction rather than tearing of the grass with a heavier tractor. The degree to which this might occur depends on soil type and mowing habits, among other things.
It's an issue I've long struggled with: A CUT is seldom an ideal mower. Unfortunately nothing is except for machines purpose-built for mowing as job one. And an ideal mower isn't much of a tractor. I've longed for one machine that can do it all. Tried some SCUTs. Obviously, not enamored with them. Decided to keep my GT for mowing and get a tractor dedicated to tractor chores. Works great, but means two machines to store and maintain. Still looking for that ideal one machine that is great at everything.
A lot of good small CUT choices including JD 2320/2520, Kioti CK20S, bota B's, the MAXs you've already considered, MF 1500 series, LS, NH, etc. They are all good machines. The TYM T233/T274/T293 is great in concept, but TYM's quality standards scare me a bit after following them for several years. I suggested the BC CT122 (a white Kioti) because I think they offer the best value right now. I think a guy just bought one with a loader (no mower) for under $12K!. That's a lot of tractor for that kind of money.
I may not know what I'm talking about, but at least I know how to spell "probably".
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
JMER,
I think I would rent or hire out a larger tractor to clear and put in the lawn. Then buy a garden tractor or subcompact to mow the lawn and handle small maintenance jobs. I use my 4520 and 110tlb to clear and put in lawns and do most of my lawn maintenance with an x749. Once you put in the Fescue lawn I don't recommend you drive heavy tractors on it for routine mowing. Periodically I use my larger tractors to pull an aerator across the lawn but most of the time lighter mowers will handle all the grass related jobs.
I can till, smooth and plant a 2 acre lawn lawn area in most cases within 2 to 3 days. Clearing varies with the density of trees and stumps that need to be removed but average another 3 days. So in most cases about a weeks work, hardly enough to justify buying all the equipment.
For lawn maintenance you will need a good garden tractor/mower, pine needle rake if you have these to deal with, pull behind seeder/fertilizer spreader for routine applications and possibly a collection system. An additional tool that would be very beneficial would be a good aerator, more important to have for the lawn than a small fel. Best I can recall it is pretty hilly around Huntsville but if your lawn area does not have too much slope a ztr could be a good choice for mowing. I personally prefer the garden tractors with 3ph because they can handle a variety of attachments from tillers, landplanes, box blades, rear blades, landscape rakes and collection systems. I don't find a fel to be needed to maintain a nice lawn, further the ballasting and weighting of a tractor for safe use increases the machine weight. For the cost of a small fel you could hire out the major portion of the lawn prep and clearing work. For this reason I am not a fan of the scut/fel/mower machines.
Here is a picture of my Fescue lawn, I try to keep the larger tractors off of it as much as possible and use the garden tractor and riding mowers to maintain it.
I think I would rent or hire out a larger tractor to clear and put in the lawn. Then buy a garden tractor or subcompact to mow the lawn and handle small maintenance jobs. I use my 4520 and 110tlb to clear and put in lawns and do most of my lawn maintenance with an x749. Once you put in the Fescue lawn I don't recommend you drive heavy tractors on it for routine mowing. Periodically I use my larger tractors to pull an aerator across the lawn but most of the time lighter mowers will handle all the grass related jobs.
I can till, smooth and plant a 2 acre lawn lawn area in most cases within 2 to 3 days. Clearing varies with the density of trees and stumps that need to be removed but average another 3 days. So in most cases about a weeks work, hardly enough to justify buying all the equipment.
For lawn maintenance you will need a good garden tractor/mower, pine needle rake if you have these to deal with, pull behind seeder/fertilizer spreader for routine applications and possibly a collection system. An additional tool that would be very beneficial would be a good aerator, more important to have for the lawn than a small fel. Best I can recall it is pretty hilly around Huntsville but if your lawn area does not have too much slope a ztr could be a good choice for mowing. I personally prefer the garden tractors with 3ph because they can handle a variety of attachments from tillers, landplanes, box blades, rear blades, landscape rakes and collection systems. I don't find a fel to be needed to maintain a nice lawn, further the ballasting and weighting of a tractor for safe use increases the machine weight. For the cost of a small fel you could hire out the major portion of the lawn prep and clearing work. For this reason I am not a fan of the scut/fel/mower machines.
Here is a picture of my Fescue lawn, I try to keep the larger tractors off of it as much as possible and use the garden tractor and riding mowers to maintain it.
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J F
Elite Member
Dammmmn...that's just braggin'. Beautiful. :thumbsup:
murphy1244
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Looks like a friggin golf coarse,nice job jenks
Gittyup
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JMER, I'm not saying a SCUT wouldn't work for you. It very well might. Just saying you can get more tractor for same money. Of course, not everyone wants more tractor. If it were me in your situation (and you are not me, I know), and I were going to spend $17K+, I'd go for the CT122 for my heavy chores and then look for a nice used Zero turn, JD 400 series or X-series for mowing and yard work. Same money, just two better-purposed machines for the tasks at hand.
My ideal tractor: All wheel steer, all wheel drive, midmount drive over autoconnect mower, easily removable loader capable of lifting 1200+ lbs, easily removable roll bar, 1600+ lbs on the 3ph., 15 gpm hydraulic flow, <80" length (Tractor only), <50" wide (tractor only), ~2000 lbs (tractor only). Not aware of any AWS/AWD in CUTs, nor easily removable roll bar. Come on JD, make me one of these that I can afford!
My ideal tractor: All wheel steer, all wheel drive, midmount drive over autoconnect mower, easily removable loader capable of lifting 1200+ lbs, easily removable roll bar, 1600+ lbs on the 3ph., 15 gpm hydraulic flow, <80" length (Tractor only), <50" wide (tractor only), ~2000 lbs (tractor only). Not aware of any AWS/AWD in CUTs, nor easily removable roll bar. Come on JD, make me one of these that I can afford!
Don87
Elite Member
JMER, as with Gittyup, I can't say that a SCUT will work for you. They are impressive machines for what they are( I'm Biased, I have one and it will do a lot), but I'm looking at your acreage.........2.5 acres. I have 2 acres, half wooded. I cut and haul wood, mow grass, dig holes(FEL only, no toothbar), move mulch, mow grass, till my garden, plow snow, blow snow, skin 300lb. hogs hung from the FEL, move huge rocks for my pond and stream.
I dunno......your choice.
I dunno......your choice.
Thanks everyone, your input is VERY much appreciated. Jenkins, I hear you and I know that would be the smartest route is to hire that part out... but I've been looking forward to being able to do this stuff for almost a decade now lol!! Plus I have a baby at home so my free time really comes in spurts, not able to plan it out and get a whole weekend to rent equipment. It's more like 30 min here, 3 hours there.... 4 days later, another hour lol. I'm going to look at a couple CUTs to price check and am going to visit a couple dealerships this week. Hope to have a decision by next weekend!
Just to update everyone and follow up w/questions (also posed in MF forum but figured I'd get more traffic here): I've pretty much decided on the GC2600 (last one on lot) w/FEL and loaded rear tires for $11,500 out the door. Other option is BX2360 w/FEL for 12k out the door. I can get better financing w/the GC (2.9 for 72 months or 0 for 60) vs. 0 for 60 on the BX.
I'm really leaning towards the 2600 mainly because I like the dealer. I'm only apprehensive on the 3 point hitch control. I plan to do a lot of box blading and I've heard the lack of position control or even 1/4inch like the BX can be a real pain in the butt. So I have two questions I"m hoping y'all can help me with:
1 - What are your techniques on the 2600 for controlling the 3PH using a box blade (such as when you want to just raise it a little bit to deposit dirt you've collected?)
2 - What are some things you think I could ask dealer to add to the deal to sweeten it a little besides coming off price? I was thinking tooth bar but not sure if that is asking too much and if it would prevent me from using the FEL to help grade/level dirt (wouldn't teeth leave marks rather than a smooth surface).
Thanks everyone!
I'm really leaning towards the 2600 mainly because I like the dealer. I'm only apprehensive on the 3 point hitch control. I plan to do a lot of box blading and I've heard the lack of position control or even 1/4inch like the BX can be a real pain in the butt. So I have two questions I"m hoping y'all can help me with:
1 - What are your techniques on the 2600 for controlling the 3PH using a box blade (such as when you want to just raise it a little bit to deposit dirt you've collected?)
2 - What are some things you think I could ask dealer to add to the deal to sweeten it a little besides coming off price? I was thinking tooth bar but not sure if that is asking too much and if it would prevent me from using the FEL to help grade/level dirt (wouldn't teeth leave marks rather than a smooth surface).
Thanks everyone!
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
JMER,
If your purchase is going to be one machine to do everything including the box blade work I strongly recommend you get position control. Boxblading will be a real chore without it and very frustrating to try to accomplish much. It doesn't matter for some tools such as raking and rototilling but it does matter for grading. I might add that I don't have position control on my x749 but the hydraulic control is different from the 2305 with a return to center valve control. I built the small landplane to help with smoothing around trees and close quarters work that helps alot.
If your purchase is going to be one machine to do everything including the box blade work I strongly recommend you get position control. Boxblading will be a real chore without it and very frustrating to try to accomplish much. It doesn't matter for some tools such as raking and rototilling but it does matter for grading. I might add that I don't have position control on my x749 but the hydraulic control is different from the 2305 with a return to center valve control. I built the small landplane to help with smoothing around trees and close quarters work that helps alot.