Buying Advice About to buy, advice and sanity check requested (includes prices)

[dkair]

We had a small issue moving one of our chicken tractors last night so I didn't get a chance to run through this as planned. This morning I started thinking about used tractors again and overall started going through the whole analysis thing again. I considered what I could find used (something like this 955 John Deere compact) and started the process of comparing. The long and the short of it is that I am back at the Kioti. When I compare apples to apples, consider a warranty (I have enough to fix around here), etc. it's just hard to beat the Kioti for price and performance. Anything else I should consider here?

So, here's what I am thinking I'll go after:

CK35 HST with Loader and Industrial Tires $16900 (ask for $500 off this)
Delivery
50 hour service filter kit


Add for price above if not -$500:
Rear work lights
Bucket hooks, weld hooks inline with the FEL arms
Loaded rear tires?

Rear remote and block heater $300
Add a second (How much should I be willing to pay if he won't throw in for the $300?)
Add float function?

You'll notice I have a question mark after the Loaded Tires and Float Function for the rear. For the tires, should I just try the tractor without this and then have done if traction is lacking or I otherwise need the ballast or is it pretty universally necessary? For the float function, I know how this works with the loader, but can someone explain the benefits for the rear and what I should expect to pay?

Thanks again for all the help,
DK

 

[GManBart]

The long and the short of it is that I am back at the Kioti. When I compare apples to apples, consider a warranty (I have enough to fix around here), etc. it's just hard to beat the Kioti for price and performance. Anything else I should consider here?

For a bit less money, you could get an LS G3038 that has a bit more power (5hp more at the PTO which would let you go up a size in implements), a longer warranty, 700lbs more FEL lift capacity, and pretty similar specs in all the other areas. The LS is lighter which may, or may not be a plus....just depends on your usage.

With this size tractor, I'd start off with loaded rear tires for traction, and expect a healthy dose of 3pt counterweight to safely use the full potential of the FEL (Kioti specs 700lbs).

 

[vtsnowedin]

We had a small issue moving one of our chicken tractors last night so I didn't get a chance to run through this as planned. This morning I started thinking about used tractors again and overall started going through the whole analysis thing again. I considered what I could find used (something like this 955 John Deere compact) and started the process of comparing. The long and the short of it is that I am back at the Kioti. When I compare apples to apples, consider a warranty (I have enough to fix around here), etc. it's just hard to beat the Kioti for price and performance. Anything else I should consider here?

So, here's what I am thinking I'll go after:

CK35 HST with Loader and Industrial Tires $16900 (ask for $500 off this)
Delivery
50 hour service filter kit


Add for price above if not -$500:
Rear work lights
Bucket hooks, weld hooks inline with the FEL arms
Loaded rear tires?

Rear remote and block heater $300
Add a second (How much should I be willing to pay if he won't throw in for the $300?)
Add float function?

You'll notice I have a question mark after the Loaded Tires and Float Function for the rear. For the tires, should I just try the tractor without this and then have done if traction is lacking or I otherwise need the ballast or is it pretty universally necessary? For the float function, I know how this works with the loader, but can someone explain the benefits for the rear and what I should expect to pay?

Thanks again for all the help,
DK

All of that sounds like a good choice. I would load the rear tires for sure and have them set to their widest setting unless you have a need for a narrow wheel track. Both help with stability and loader safety. You will also need to have weight on the three point hitch when doing more then occasional loader work as that reduces stress and wear on the front axel when you have a full load in the bucket. The owners manual for the loader should set you on the right path. We'll want to see pictures when you get it. Enjoy.

 

[dkair]

For a bit less money, you could get an LS G3038 that has a bit more power (5hp more at the PTO which would let you go up a size in implements), a longer warranty, 700lbs more FEL lift capacity, and pretty similar specs in all the other areas. The LS is lighter which may, or may not be a plus....just depends on your usage.

With this size tractor, I'd start off with loaded rear tires for traction, and expect a healthy dose of 3pt counterweight to safely use the full potential of the FEL (Kioti specs 700lbs).

I had the time to give the nearest LS dealer, about 1.5 hours from me, a call today. I should be receiving a quote via email tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for mentioning LS. I had looked at them initially but ruled them out when I narrowed my search to dealers within an hour. Had a real pleasant conversation with the sales guy and my initial research show LS as a good, value tractor similar to the Kioti.

 

[dkair]

All of that sounds like a good choice. I would load the rear tires for sure and have them set to their widest setting unless you have a need for a narrow wheel track. Both help with stability and loader safety. You will also need to have weight on the three point hitch when doing more then occasional loader work as that reduces stress and wear on the front axel when you have a full load in the bucket. The owners manual for the loader should set you on the right path. We'll want to see pictures when you get it. Enjoy.

Thanks for the detailed response. Being new to tractors, this helps firm things up for me. I will definitely post pics once I have the (a) tractor - I owe you guys at least that much for all the solid responses.

 

[dkair]

Re: About to buy, advice and sanity check requested (PURCHASED)

Well, after a lot of debate and some delays due to my dealer being at the Sturgis rally, I finally had my CK35 HST with Loader delivered. I came in just over $17,500 with everything outlined earlier along with three cans of touch-up paint, a tube of grease, some extra filters in addition to the 50 hour kit and a full tank of diesel. I feel that I got a more than fair deal.

Thanks to all that helped with this decision and checked my sanity. This is a great forum and I hope to be able to return some advice once I build up some knowledge. Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure!

Warming up before doing some light work


Rear remotes and work lights


Block heater


After moving some gravel, pushing a couple down trees out of a trail and overall just trying it out


Now it's time to research break-in (how easy do I really need to take it for the first 50), implements, etc.

Thanks again! :thumbsup:

 

[Guesseral]

I always felt (and probably wrongly) that if you baby it during the break in period you will probably always baby it. I drive them the same in the beginning as I will always be driving them, so if there is a week link lets find out right now.

 

[Don87]

I always felt (and probably wrongly) that if you baby it during the break in period you will probably always baby it. I drive them the same in the beginning as I will always be driving them, so if there is a week link lets find out right now.

I pretty much followed the 'break-in guidelines'. I did go over a little, but didn't push it too much.

The main thing is to 'never lug a diesel engine'............lugging will kill a diesel faster than almost anything.



And...........Congrats on the purchase, dkair. Tractor looks great.

Tractor safely.

 

[dkair]

I pretty much followed the 'break-in guidelines'. I did go over a little, but didn't push it too much.

The main thing is to 'never lug a diesel engine'............lugging will kill a diesel faster than almost anything.



And...........Congrats on the purchase, dkair. Tractor looks great.

Tractor safely.

Thanks, Don!

Yeah, I plan to take it pretty easy for a while and then work up as I get close to 50 hours (at 5 already). Worked it for a couple hours on and off today doing some light loader work, a wee bit of back grading and hauling some firewood from a woodlot back home. Also used a trail through the woods to practice precise maneuvers. Bumped a few trees with the bucket, but that was the idea as I'd rather bump a tree than, say, my shed. Pushed over a couple smaller dead trees also - that was fun. None of the work I did today required anywhere near PTO RPMs.

I am curious about the lugging as I know this is bad, but how much of a drop in RPMs would be considered lugging? I ask because I notice a small drop in RPMs when getting up to speed and such. Or is it more like true lugging like when you accidentally try to start out in third instead of first in a manual car? Not that I've ever done that...:wink:

 

[Don87]

Thanks, Don!

Yeah, I plan to take it pretty easy for a while and then work up as I get close to 50 hours (at 5 already). Worked it for a couple hours on and off today doing some light loader work, a wee bit of back grading and hauling some firewood from a woodlot back home. Also used a trail through the woods to practice precise maneuvers. Bumped a few trees with the bucket, but that was the idea as I'd rather bump a tree than, say, my shed. Pushed over a couple smaller dead trees also - that was fun. None of the work I did today required anywhere near PTO RPMs.

I am curious about the lugging as I know this is bad, but how much of a drop in RPMs would be considered lugging? I ask because I notice a small drop in RPMs when getting up to speed and such. Or is it more like true lugging like when you accidentally try to start out in third instead of first in a manual car? Not that I've ever done that...:wink:

Your welcome.

Kinda sorta.........I think you understand.

Just don't push it. Treat your diesel as a friend............make him/her happy. But keep in mind that too easy of a break-in can result in a lazy engine with no power.............Gotta push it a little occasionally, just don't overdo it.


I can't give you exact figures as I don't have a Kioti, but with my Massey......if the RPM's dropped from 1800 to 1500.........I considered it lugging......I just listened to the engine. You want it to purr..............not struggle.