Moved and need to upgrade w budget.

[1977212]

I have a 77 212 that worked great at my last place that was only a half acre.

Ill still use this for my snowblower and smaller areas.

I live in Minnesota just north of the twin cities.

I now have 3.5 acers and I will be mowing it all. I've spent 16 hours cutting down 3ft fields on a corner lot to make it possible. The last house owner didn't upkeep the yard at all. It's very flat ground and very little trees.

I'm looking to upgrade to possibly a 5' or 6' finishing type blade behind a tractor.

That's where I'm at rite now. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for this. 3k is my budget for tractor and deck but I don't want to be fixing it all the time. I know this is a lot to ask for 3k but I believe it could be done.

If you'd recommend a good used tractor that could fit my needs that would be great. I've searched around about this but nothing seemed to stick out besides a ford N. but I know nothing about reliability with them.

 

[1977212]

Might do a trail mower. All depends?

 

[High Brook Hills]

Why would a zero turn or other large mower platform not work? They will cut faster than a tractor, use less fuel, and give you a better cut than a shredding mower. Of course, many will not cut really really tall grass.

 

[mikehaugen]

Just to be clear, mowing is the only intended purpose of this machine?

If so, then get yourself a good used zero turn with 60" or 72" deck ad mentioned. This is assuming you are keeping it as lawn.

Tractors don't make optimal mowing machines, but do pretty well. If all you are doing is mowing, there is no sense buying a cut or scut. A zero-turn, front mower, or larger riding mower is what you want.

Good (in my opinion) riding mowers in that price range would be a jd 345 or possibly 445. Also check out some different simplicity models- thay are known for an (arguably) better cut quality than comparable jd.

 

[1977212]

I would like to have a zero turn, there's a hustler dealer down the road and I can get a brand new one for zero down and intrest free. I really really like them But I don't really want to jump on that rite now. Maybe after winter ill make up my mind?

The only problem I have with my yard is huge mounds of dirt from gophers. So it would be very very bumpy I would assume in a zero turn.

My tractor even with the deck all the way up scalped probably 50 mounds just trying to cut the weeds down. Even destroyed my deck belt and I had maybe 30ft left that's still uncut.


It would probably take me a long time to get rid of the bumps. Probably a good 30 hours of work with a tiller, shovel and rake.

But it's going to have to be fixed eventually so I assume I could use a zero turn.

 

[jenkinsph]

The only problem I have with my yard is huge mounds of dirt from gophers.

My tractor even with the deck all the way up scalped probably 50 mounds just trying to cut the weeds down. Even destroyed my deck belt and I had maybe 30ft left that's still uncut.


It would probably take me a long time to get rid of the bumps. Probably a good 30 hours of work with a tiller, shovel and rake.

I would rig up a drag to smooth out those mounds and add some lawn seed in early spring. I use a landplane for this and usually one pass is all it takes. You might be better served to hire this out. Any fresh mounds after this are easily raked out if you catch them before it rains. With a garden tractor and small landplane I could knock down those mounds in an hour I would guess. Once the lawn is smoothed out you can easily mow it with a 60" deck without scalping problems.

Most of the larger riding mowers can cut 3 acres in about 2 hours or so. The low end ztr can do the same, larger ones could cut that time down considerably. I use a 4x4ws mower which handles collection, seeding, abd raking on my 4 acres of lawn. I make a point to keep my larger tractors off the lawn if possible.

 

[1977212]

I would rig up a drag to smooth out those mounds and add some lawn seed in early spring. I use a landplane for this and usually one pass is all it takes. You might be better served to hire this out. Any fresh mounds after this are easily raked out if you catch them before it rains. With a garden tractor and small landplane I could knock down those mounds in an hour I would guess. Once the lawn is smoothed out you can easily mow it with a 60" deck without scalping problems.

Most of the larger riding mowers can cut 3 acres in about 2 hours or so. The low end ztr can do the same, larger ones could cut that time down considerably. I use a 4x4ws mower which handles collection, seeding, abd raking on my 4 acres of lawn. I make a point to keep my larger tractors off the lawn if possible.

Well now that seems like a much better idea to use a lawnplane. Ill look into that thanks!

I'm not going to go all out and make it the best lawn in the neighborhood. nobody lived here before us for over 4 years and they never cut the yard.

A farmer came in to cut the lawn and made 26 bales out of it just before we bought it.

So that's where I'm at. It's pretty much bumpy field grass that nobody took care of and I'd like to make it look decent because I'm on a corner lot and its been an eyesore for a few years.


Do you recommend a brand of landplane? I do have a small back blade/ dirt box. Could I just use that?

 

[jenkinsph]

I use two landplanes for smoothing lawns, both have the blades set flush with the skids. In most conditions I can slide across a lawn without much damage to the grass. It will cut down mounds that are sticking up. I also use a box blade when needed for more aggressive cutting or grading and a tiller for new areas from scratch. I would think it might depend on what implements you or a local farmer have available to use. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on tools for a one shot deal.

Most homeowners can get by with a mower of choice and a small pull type seeder long term. Proper mowing schedule, rain, a little seed and fertilizer can do wonders to make your lawn area look better. Recognize that grass is easier to maintain than weeds even if you are not concerned about having the best lawn in the neighborhood.

Here is a picture of the landplanes I built a 4 ft and 8ft along with a box blade and home built spike tooth harrow. These tools do most of the smoothing I need for lawn repairs. Last is a picture of my lawn where I went from a weed lot to a rear lawn.

 

[farmer2009]

I use two landplanes for smoothing lawns, both have the blades set flush with the skids. In most conditions I can slide across a lawn without much damage to the grass. It will cut down mounds that are sticking up. I also use a box blade when needed for more aggressive cutting or grading and a tiller for new areas from scratch. I would think it might depend on what implements you or a local farmer have available to use. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on tools for a one shot deal.

Most homeowners can get by with a mower of choice and a small pull type seeder long term. Proper mowing schedule, rain, a little seed and fertilizer can do wonders to make your lawn area look better. Recognize that grass is easier to maintain than weeds even if you are not concerned about having the best lawn in the neighborhood.

Here is a picture of the landplanes I built a 4 ft and 8ft along with a box blade and home built spike tooth harrow. These tools do most of the smoothing I need for lawn repairs. Last is a picture of my lawn where I went from a weed lot to a rear lawn.

Do you have a better picture of the one with the spike tooth harrow on it. I am wondering what is on the front edge.

 

[jenkinsph]

Here is another picture of the harrow from the front. Simple box tubing front frame, the harrow teeth were made from 5/8" sucker rod retired fron oilfield use. Cost was about $250 complete with steel, pins and paint. I would build the front frame differently so that the hinge point would be lower and directly in line with the front box tube frame. That would work with chains to the rear to allow it to flex and follow the contour better.