Tractor Sizing Tractor for ~ 100 acres

   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #1  

nwind

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
85
Location
Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Kubota M9960, L3800HST, RTV 900
I would like advice on selecting my tractor. Here is my situation:

We've moved recently on the ~ 100 acres property (6 smaller roughly equal hay fields). 4 of them in relatively good condition, one is OK'ish and one is nothing but weeds. Ground is mostly flat with some very minor hills.
We have 10+ cows and most likely this number will grow.

I need to handle big round bales, move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow (this winter was a lot:), move some dirt, fencing, etc.

I'm not yet to cut grass on my fields and start baling this year (I think) but most likely will do it starting next season and probably will try to plant some crops at least in a "bad" field to restore it.

I currently have Kubota L3800HST and can't say nothing bad about it but it's obviously not up to the task.

Kin'd of sitting on the fence right now either to buy bigger utility tractor with cab and loader (~ 70hp) or go to ~ 100hp - 130hp range with potential upcoming work.

Price difference is quite substantial and I don't want to be either undersized or oversized (later is better I guess :) but too big tractor will have problems with maneuverability and extra fuel/cost with lighter work.

My range right now from used Kubota M7040 up to used Kubota M135X or new M126GX and everything in between.

I'm talking about Kubotas because I quite familiar now with they offering, have a good dealer in close proximity and have no problems with mine L3800 in two years.

I would really appreciate as well your help with implements choices/price range for this type of workload.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #2  
I ran beef cattle on 200+ ac and had no problems with a 75 hp tractor. It did all I needed to do and did it well, equipment cost less for a smaller tractor too.. It was a 255 massey turned up to 74 hp.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #3  
"handle big round bales . . . cut and bale hay fields"
Those will probably be the tasks that will require the biggest tractor.
Based on that, I would say that your bottom number of 70hp would be a bare minimum. And that would depend on the tractor specs. And, it's not ONLY the HP rating, but weight, wheelbase, width, etc., that comes into play.
For instance, my cousin has two Kubota M9540 cab tractors, both MFWD with FEL's. He has a 5x6 round baler. The Kubota's would not safely handle the bales until he filled the rear tires. Compare that to my NH TN70A open station. I can easily handle the same rolls without ballast. My tractor is just that much heavier. I'm running a JD 4x5 baler behind my 5085M, and it's "comfortable" with it. I really wouldn't want to have any less tractor for baling.
I think you would be more limited by going too small, way more than by going too big. You already have a good "little" tractor. Don't undersize the "big" one.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #4  
"handle big round bales . . . cut and bale hay fields"
Those will probably be the tasks that will require the biggest tractor.
Based on that, I would say that your bottom number of 70hp would be a bare minimum. And that would depend on the tractor specs. And, it's not ONLY the HP rating, but weight, wheelbase, width, etc., that comes into play.
For instance, my cousin has two Kubota M9540 cab tractors, both MFWD with FEL's. He has a 5x6 round baler. The Kubota's would not safely handle the bales until he filled the rear tires. Compare that to my NH TN70A open station. I can easily handle the same rolls without ballast. My tractor is just that much heavier. I'm running a JD 4x5 baler behind my 5085M, and it's "comfortable" with it. I really wouldn't want to have any less tractor for baling.
I think you would be more limited by going too small, way more than by going too big. You already have a good "little" tractor. Don't undersize the "big" one.

No, just ask alot of the folks on here, a BX25D will handle all those tasks:laughing:
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres
  • Thread Starter
#5  
For instance, my cousin has two kubota M9540 cab tractors, both MFWD with FEL's. He has a 5x6 round baler. The Kubota's would not safely handle the bales until he filled the rear tires.

No, just ask alot of the folks on here, a BX25D will handle all those tasks:laughing:

I know :) because I was handling big round bales with my L3800 with FEL and just a small ballast box with stones and I don't feel safe at all.
I might have a good deal on just 1 year old 50hrs M9960+M36 self leveling loader which is 635 lbs heavier than M9540 but still might need some ballast at the back.
To be totally safe M100 to M136 are the better choice (and better transmission too) but I'm afraid that they can be too big for the general work and cleaning snow on my property.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #6  
I have run as many as 30 head of cattle on 200 acres with a 50 hp tractor. It is truly all which is needed to get the job done. Have bale spear on front, bale fork on rear, can put out/move 2 bales at once, nice. I certainly would not recommend anything smaller. A 60 to 70 hp tractor with balanced FEL, 3 rear remotes, associated attachments would clearly do just fine, IMHO. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND an HST tractor. Of course, I am sold on Kubota. There is a FEL quick attach which is convertible between a hay spike and loading forks. There is a thread somewhere here on TBN where a member recommends the brand, but I can't remember the brand at the moment...I think that is a good idea. I think that getting a 60hp tractor with a bunch of attachments would be much better than a much larger tractor and then not have funds for the right set of attachments. A tractor is simply an engine. It's the attachments which do all the work, so you really need to budget them in. Also, things such as front/rear work lights, hydraulic top link, etc. sure make a difference in ease of use.

Yes, you will need to fill rear tires, perhaps add weight to rear when doing a lot of FEL work with heavy materials.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #7  
I have a M135GX and it or it's smaller siblings in the Grand X category would do well except for the cleanup stuff. Our JD6230 is not a whole lot different on that end which is why the L5740 is around. Something I am really attached to is power shift. We have several non-power shift tractors I don't show on my list here because they rarely get used. On a Kubota that starts off with the M100GX. I have a neighbor with one of them and he loves it - for all the stuff you talk about except for snow work around the yard where he has an old pickup with plow. He has 6 tractors but almost all his work last year was done with the Kubota because of the comfort - he is 88.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I have run as many as 30 head of cattle on 200 acres with a 50 hp tractor. It is truly all which is needed to get the job done. Have bale spear on front, bale fork on rear, can put out/move 2 bales at once, nice. I certainly would not recommend anything smaller. A 60 to 70 hp tractor with balanced FEL, 3 rear remotes, associated attachments would clearly do just fine, IMHO. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND an HST tractor. Of course, I am sold on kubota. There is a FEL quick attach which is convertible between a hay spike and loading forks. There is a thread somewhere here on TBN where a member recommends the brand, but I can't remember the brand at the moment...I think that is a good idea. I think that getting a 60hp tractor with a bunch of attachments would be much better than a much larger tractor and then not have funds for the right set of attachments. A tractor is simply an engine. It's the attachments which do all the work, so you really need to budget them in. Also, things such as front/rear work lights, hydraulic top link, etc. sure make a difference in ease of use.

I would like Kubota too for the reasons which I mentioned on my original post.
There is no HST (like on my L3800) on the bigger M-series tractors and the closest one is they "Intelli-Shift Transmission" transmission on M100(G)X and up.

I'm curious how can you safely handle big rounds on you L5030 which is not much bigger than my L3800.

Road from the hay storage to the cows is quite downhill and I need to go backward to balance weight of the bale. With a lot of snow (this winter was really bad) or mud any slight sharp movement or even frozen cow's manure on the road make it really unbalanced and it's not a good feelings.

Obviously I'll go with quick attachments for FEL.
In Canada M-series loaders are more popular than Kubota's LA loaders. Dealer claims that they are better build and more reliable.

Products: M Loaders Kubota Canada Ltd.

They are all have quick Euro coupler.

Would be nice to see info about that FEL quick attach which is convertible between a hay spike and loading forks.

In case I'll get a new tractor I'll go with Kubota's 0% 60 months loan which will make pain not that bad :) For sure I'll need to sell L3800 to make it easier.
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I have a M135GX and it or it's smaller siblings in the Grand X category would do well except for the cleanup stuff. Our JD6230 is not a whole lot different on that end which is why the L5740 is around. Something I am really attached to is power shift. We have several non-power shift tractors I don't show on my list here because they rarely get used. On a Kubota that starts off with the M100GX. I have a neighbor with one of them and he loves it - for all the stuff you talk about except for snow work around the yard where he has an old pickup with plow. He has 6 tractors but almost all his work last year was done with the Kubota because of the comfort - he is 88.

I like power-shift too and this why I was looking to M100GX/M110GX than I realize that M126GX has much bigger engine with low RPM and way better torque but I don't feel comfortable with it size for the general work around property. I can't have both Grand X and something like your L5740 and for the winter snow removal cab is a must.
I have feelings that it may ended with something in between like M8560 or M9960 but no power shift there :(
 
   / Tractor for ~ 100 acres #10  
nwind, that's funny...your post number 8 has my post repeated, but is attributed to grm61:confused3:

Anyway, I have discovered that it takes a LOT of weight to properly balance and make my 5030 a safe work horse. When I first got it, it only had rear wheels loaded...and it turned into a tricycle whenever I did something heavy with the FEL. THEN, I learned about weight balance and have been a happy camper ever since. For moving round hay bales of 1500 lbs, maybe more if wet, I first added nearly 200 lbs to the rear hay fork. With care, when it is absolutely necessary, I can carefully and slowly handle a bale on the front spear only with empty rear fork. Problem isn't the FEL strength, rather keeping rear wheels on ground. With the extra 200 lbs, this happens. Typically when moving hay I FIRST load up a rear bale, THEN spike the front bale. Of course, carry front bale low and slow. And, make sure front tires are pressurized to near max rated load, else you can roll the tire off the rim when under-inflated and high load.

when doing FEL work moving gravel, etc...a full bucket full, I FIRST put my box blade on the rear...and it has an ADDED 800 LBS of weight on it. This makes a nice counter balance to a full FEL bucket.

Net...if either the rear or front is too light when attempting to use a tractor for its intended purpose, stop immediately and find a way to add sufficient counter weight. I find that when driving my tractor at prudent speeds, if it "porpoises," then this means I am unbalanced. My smoothest ride, ever, is in high range at 15mph on reasonably flat pasture with a bale on both front and rear. That weight turns the tires into cushions and the tractor kinda glides over the land.

To me, HST is actually a safety feature because speed control is so exact and precise. Actually, I do a lot of work with a buddy driving T posts with FEL, other FEL work. With either of us driving, the other is able to safely maneuver chains, etc. immediately in front of FEL and have little concern regarding safety and getting run over....speed control and extreme slow moving is superb for precision work and personnel safety. The speed control is also key to maneuvering hay bales, etc...Of course I have R4's. In Canada you might need chains...I have no experience with such in Texas...less snow...:cool2:

I have a hydraulic top link which gives superb control of angle of attack for hay fork and box blade....highly recommended.

Here ya go:
Skid Steer HD Hay Spear Attachment with Pallet Forks Capacity 4,000 lbs
 
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