Just purchased an RX6010C - Have a few questions...

[yoorama]

I just purchased a new RX6010 and so far I love it. The price seemed reasonable next to other brands in the 50-70 HP range. This is my first new tractor to purchase and will be used in a horse business to mow pastures, move hay, and clear land of trees and debris.

I have a few questions:

.01 I have been using a King Kut 5' on my ~'65 Ford 3000 and have never had to worry about a "shear" bolt or greasing the gear box every 10 hours (as the dealer swears I need to do). My question is what grade of shear bolt should i use (grade 2 or 5) for my brand new New Holland 6' rotary cutter and should I be worried that the bolt sheared off the second time I engaged the PTO? The throttle was in the lowest position (turtle position).

.02 What is the best speed to use when mowing? I found that M2 is considerably more rocky than M1 and at times I've been using L4. My Ford seems to allow me to mow much faster than what feels comfortable in this tractor.

.03 Can I shift between L > M > H while in motion? What should I expect from the synchro transmission?

.04 Lastly, how hard is it to remove the front end loader and should I remove it when mowing? The dealer seemed reluctant to show me how to remove it and suggested I should never need to.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just purchased a new RX6010 and so far I love it. The price seemed reasonable next to other brands in the 50-70 HP range. This is my first new tractor to purchase and will be used in a horse business to mow pastures, move hay, and clear land of trees and debris.

I have a few questions:

.01 I have been using a King Kut 5' on my ~'65 Ford 3000 and have never had to worry about a "shear" bolt or greasing the gear box every 10 hours (as the dealer swears I need to do). My question is what grade of shear bolt should i use (grade 2 or 5) for my brand new New Holland 6' rotary cutter and should I be worried that the bolt sheared off the second time I engaged the PTO? The throttle was in the lowest position (turtle position).

.02 What is the best speed to use when mowing? I found that M2 is considerably more rocky than M1 and at times I've been using L4. My Ford seems to allow me to mow much faster than what feels comfortable in this tractor.

.03 Can I shift between L > M > H while in motion? What should I expect from the synchro transmission?

.04 Lastly, how hard is it to remove the front end loader and should I remove it when mowing? The dealer seemed reluctant to show me how to remove it and suggested I should never need to.

Read all of your owners-operators manuals. Read your tractor owners manual at least 3 times. This will answer most of your first 3 questions.

As far as #4, your dealer probably doesn't know how to remove it. Removing the loader to mow is a personal choice. A lot of people do not, after all, it takes a whole 5 minutes to remove and about the same to put back on.

I remove the loader when doing very much field work, I hate having the loader bouncing and clunking around for hours. Plus the tractor feels like a sports car with the loader removed. As far as how fast, to many variables to make a comment that will actually help you. As fast as is comfortable for you, how's that.

 

[nybirdman]

I just purchased a Landpride 6ft.cutter;it was equipped with a slip clutch.The dealer orders them that way because they found the shear pins were braking on start up.So maybe add a clutch and use a grade 8 bolt for the shear(only if you add the clutch)

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

I run grade 5 shear bolts found grade 2 shear at nothing I mow at 540 pto speed to get correct blade speed I have never removed loader not saying it wouldn't be a good idea my tractor is HST and I use medium speed this is only what I do others will have different opions

 

[paulfun9]

I have not found a piece of equipment that actually worked with a grade 2 shear bolt. Everything I have is now using a grade 5 or a slip clutch shaft I find it much better actually using the equipment than spending my time with a box of grade 2 shear bolts replacing them every 5 min!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I just purchased a new RX6010 and so far I love it. The price seemed reasonable next to other brands in the 50-70 HP range. This is my first new tractor to purchase and will be used in a horse business to mow pastures, move hay, and clear land of trees and debris.

I have a few questions:

.01 I have been using a King Kut 5' on my ~'65 Ford 3000 and have never had to worry about a "shear" bolt or greasing the gear box every 10 hours (as the dealer swears I need to do). My question is what grade of shear bolt should i use (grade 2 or 5) for my brand new New Holland 6' rotary cutter and should I be worried that the bolt sheared off the second time I engaged the PTO? The throttle was in the lowest position (turtle position).

.02 What is the best speed to use when mowing? I found that M2 is considerably more rocky than M1 and at times I've been using L4. My Ford seems to allow me to mow much faster than what feels comfortable in this tractor.

.03 Can I shift between L > M > H while in motion? What should I expect from the synchro transmission?

.04 Lastly, how hard is it to remove the front end loader and should I remove it when mowing? The dealer seemed reluctant to show me how to remove it and suggested I should never need to.

1) Read the owner's manual of your rotary cutter. The owner's manual will tell you what bolts to use and the dealer can get them for you as well. You probably do not need to cut down the drive shaft, given you're a CAT2 tractor but make sure. Use a moly-based grease for everything.

2) Turn on the PTO at the lowest engine speed you can without stalling (idle) and spool the engine up and find out.

3) You can wade through gears while moving, but I don't think you can shift the range you're in while rolling. I cannot but I have a different Kioti tractor.

4) Read your loader manual. If it is like mine, a Kioti KL6010, it is relatively easy. I don't mow with my tractor and have found no reason to remove my loader as it is in continual use, but that is me and my special situation.

 

[yoorama]

Thank you everyone. Grade 5 seems to be the answer and after reading my manuals, my other questions are answered. Now, to figure out how to fix the hood latch that busted when a tree root whiplashed from underneath the loader while I was clearing a thicket...

 

[TSO]

I just purchased a new RX6010 and so far I love it. The price seemed reasonable next to other brands in the 50-70 HP range. This is my first new tractor to purchase and will be used in a horse business to mow pastures, move hay, and clear land of trees and debris.

I have a few questions:

.01 I have been using a King Kut 5' on my ~'65 Ford 3000 and have never had to worry about a "shear" bolt or greasing the gear box every 10 hours (as the dealer swears I need to do). My question is what grade of shear bolt should i use (grade 2 or 5) for my brand new New Holland 6' rotary cutter and should I be worried that the bolt sheared off the second time I engaged the PTO? The throttle was in the lowest position (turtle position).

.02 What is the best speed to use when mowing? I found that M2 is considerably more rocky than M1 and at times I've been using L4. My Ford seems to allow me to mow much faster than what feels comfortable in this tractor.

.03 Can I shift between L > M > H while in motion? What should I expect from the synchro transmission?

.04 Lastly, how hard is it to remove the front end loader and should I remove it when mowing? The dealer seemed reluctant to show me how to remove it and suggested I should never need to.

1) I have found this happens often as well. But remember, the point of a shear pin is to protect the system, both your tractor and the implement. I'd rather replace a $.30 cent bolt a few times than a $2000 PTO.

2) go at whatever speed you can travel with the implement still spinning at 540....And while still cutting nicely...And with your comfort in mind.

3) NO. You must stop to change range.

4) it's easy, and if you're mowing for any length of time, I highly recommend removing the loader. Most quick attach loaders come off about the same. I can have my Massey loader off in about 3 mins, back on in about the same. Biggest key is to park on a stable, flat surface (cement slab)

However, if you're mowing where the ground might be soft, and getting stuck is a possible concern... might be safer to keep the loader on in case you need to dig yourself out

 

[Jd5203]

I just purchased a new RX6010 and so far I love it. The price seemed reasonable next to other brands in the 50-70 HP range. This is my first new tractor to purchase and will be used in a horse business to mow pastures, move hay, and clear land of trees and debris.

I have a few questions:

.01 I have been using a King Kut 5' on my ~'65 Ford 3000 and have never had to worry about a "shear" bolt or greasing the gear box every 10 hours (as the dealer swears I need to do). My question is what grade of shear bolt should i use (grade 2 or 5) for my brand new New Holland 6' rotary cutter and should I be worried that the bolt sheared off the second time I engaged the PTO? The throttle was in the lowest position (turtle position).

.02 What is the best speed to use when mowing? I found that M2 is considerably more rocky than M1 and at times I've been using L4. My Ford seems to allow me to mow much faster than what feels comfortable in this tractor.

.03 Can I shift between L > M > H while in motion? What should I expect from the synchro transmission?

.04 Lastly, how hard is it to remove the front end loader and should I remove it when mowing? The dealer seemed reluctant to show me how to remove it and suggested I should never need to.

Ok, the best speed for mowing is what you are comfortable with. If you don't feel comfortable, slow down, if you feel like your doing ok and can speed up a little bit, catch another gear. I don't know your terrain but for me, I'll mow with our 5083e on flat ground wide open, the 5203 is used on hills going slower but as fast as it will go up the hill. You have to learn your equipment, I have tested our equipment and it has gone to the limit each time, at first what is uncomfortable you will find it is fine as you have done it before and lived to tell the tale. If you are like me, you will go places never gone before and be wondering if you're going to make it out alive. Our 5203 has been on hills that I've turned around on where the backend starts sliding down the hill as you're turning back up. Like my boss told me, when your *** starts squeezing the seat, slow the **** down.

As for shifting between L>M>H, no you can not do this in motion. This is your range, only shift when stopped, 1,2,3,4 you can shift any time by using the clutch.

For the loader, if you are on steep ground, leave it on for ballast while mowing, if your in the flats you can take it off. We've never taken our loaders off for anything, most of the time I will just take the bucket off and that makes a world of difference and is much easier than taking the loader off. If it is wet, leave the loader and the bucket because if you take it off you might find a spring where the bucket can get you out. Like here.


Most of all, just take it easy until you learn the equipment, you will learn as you go what feels comfortable and what doesn't, just be careful and don't try to build Paris in a day. Take your time, you're better alive to your family than dead because you weren't comfortable doing something and messed up a little.