Buying Advice Older 100 hp plus tractor for tillage work and snow blowing

[bha61]

I'm thinking of purchasing an older 100 hp plus tractor. The tractor would be used for some (75-100 acres) tillage work in the spring and fall, but I also want to be able to use it in the winter with a snow blower.

So far, I have been considering a Case 2090, IH 986, MF 1135 or a White 2-105.

I've learned (by reading these forums) that there can be issues with the Case power shifts while doing some forms of PTO work, but the information seems to be mixed. Some people have indicated that you shouldn't use the PTO at all while in reverse, while others have said it's OK to use the PTO while in reverse, just don't leave the power shift lever in reverse while doing stationary PTO work. I find it hard to believe that a tractor manufacture would build a tractor that you cannot use the PTO at all while the tractor is operating in reverse but I do have a Case 2090 Operators manual, and in it, it does say - "Do not operate the PTO with the power shift selector in R (Reverse) position. Operating in the reverse position causes the transmission to generate more heat and work less efficiently than in the forward position."

So my questions are:

Has anybody used the above tractors (including the Case) with a snow blower and if so, how did things work out?

I'm also curious to know if anybody has used a snow blower on a White 2-135 or a MF 1155? These are certainly much bigger tractors then I really need but I have come across some that are in decent shape, relatively close by, and the price is reasonable. The White 2-135 does have an issue with the parking brake not working, and I've heard this can be quite an expensive thing to get fixed so this basically means that if I were to buy this 2-135, I would buy it knowing that it will most likely never have a working parking brake. The 2-135 is also quite big and heavy, which will be good for traction, but then it probably will not be all that "nimble", which perhaps is not a great thing if I'm trying to blow snow close to things like buildings and vehicles.

Also, should the width of the rear tires influence my decision regarding which tractor to buy? I would think 20.8" rear tires will provide more traction for tillage work (compared to 18.4" rear tires), but will it be better to have the 18.4" tires for snow blowing, or will this really not make that that much of a difference? I always have to put tire chains on my current 50 hp tractor, but I would really like to avoid having to do this with my next tractor.

One other thought I have is to try and pick up a (very low cost) Case IH 5140 (with MFWD, cab and loader). A tractor like this will be allot more expensive, so I'm not sure if I can actually do this right now.

All replies welcome, thanks!

 

[jenkinsph]

I have read the same things about the Case 90 and 94 series tractors, don't know what other models have this issue. I have looked at the 2094 thru 3594 models with mfwd and fortunately for me don't need to run in reverse with the pto operating. Correct me if I am wrong but as I understand it a portion of the driveline can have limited oiling when the pto and reverse are both selected. If you leave the tractor in reverse on the power shift selector, the range lever in park and use it for stationary pto use it will cause big problems.

Have you considered with the size of these tractors the possibility of using a rear mounted pull type snow blower? I would think with the high clearance of these tractors that might be a decent solution and is easier on your neck too.

As for the tires I don't think there will be much difference in traction between the 18.4 and the 20.8 in snow and ice, if it is too slick you will likey need chains on either one. For field work I vote for the 20.8 tires with these larger tractors, I can say that most of the 2294 thru 3594 models are using these particularly in the single wheel applications. I would also say I don't see much difference in price range whether you are looking for a 130hp or 200hp 94 series tractor, most of them seem to be running between $18k and $30K depending on condition and % of tread left. The hour meters are meaningless as who knows how many times these have turned over. But I can say that the engine is a good one, had a 1370 years ago with the same motor.

I am only considering the mfwd models I should add, and most of the larger models have the 24 speed partial power shift.

 

[batwing]

When I read this, MF would be on my short list.
Ron

 

[bha61]

Thank you!

 

[Dave M7040]

With that level of power you need to be careful about the snow blower your choose.
You can easily over load the gear box on most older farm level snow blowers and end up with a pile of junk.
The shear bolt wont protect you against steady high power levels going to the blower gear box.
Most snow blower manufacturers list the power range their gear boxes can handle.
jenkinsph mentioned a pull type snow blower. I have one of these and love it but there are not many used ones around. I initially used it with my Nuffield 465 2wd and now pull with a 4wd Kubota M7040.
Dave M7040

 

[boggen]

being able to adjust. RPM's for snow blower and fine tune your overall ground speed as well maybe something you really want. such as a shuttle shift, or some other hydraulic transmission / cvt transmission. (lots of forward / backwards to clean stuff out and easy adjust fine to ground speed via foot pedal)

but you do note field work, were a old straight gear might work better. "set and forget thing".

so your caught.... with field work = more likely your bread and butter overall. i would say get tractor for that. and then if optional maybe something for snow blowing

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3pt hitches are awesome willing going forward and pulling stuff. there strong rugged and hard to beat.

but as soon as you start going in reverse, and/or have something touching the ground or in the ground and begin to make turns (more so sharp turns). 3 pt hitchs can quickly bend and start breaking stuff on a tractor.

there are check chains, stay straps, swing bars, swing chains, etc... that nearly all old and new tractors make room for to easily attach. but generally all these chains / bars = optional. and you need to buy and correctly adjust them. that can help reduce some wear tear on 3pt hitch.

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FEL (front end loader) it is rare but folks have twisted the arms of FELs. granted i have used and abused FEL's, and have yet to twist arms of a FEL. most likely either trying to get bucket or a fork from a fork lift, and only prying up on very side vs trying to center things on prying part. or ran FEL into a good old tree stump or like. but with snow on ground... and snow covering stuff, that you done forgot about... you might be at risk somewhat of running things over.

personally i would like a 4 in 1 bucket/blade on a FEL. i have to many areas around the farm. were i simply can not plow snow / push snow. granted i do not have a snow blower, but if i did, i would have no were to blow it, more so between some sheds, and some parking areas. and need a bucket, to move snow, and then pile the snow as high as i can, in a few limited areas, without driving long distances to pile snow. "back dragging" with general duty bucket is nice, but would love the abilty to lift the bucket up, and have direct access to the blade portion of a 4 in 1 bucket. to act like a mini bull dozer blade, to push snow around. and not needing to get my tires in the snow and getting stuck.

a rear blade plus FEL can also be nice. being able to adjust rear blade. to move snow around. if snow is only a couple inches deep. ((granted last couple years have been pretty easy here, there been a few winters over the years. were drifts from 2 to 6 feet high happen.

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if you can buy a old heavy duty truck. and toss a regular snow plow on it. might make better sense. more so if you are cleaning up longer trails / roads on the farm. it is mainly about pure ground speed of a truck. and being able to adjust snow blade to send all the snow off to one side. that makes a good old truck with snow plow on it fast compared to a tractor.

with above, if you have say a full size truck already. assumption you do already, with farm acreage, and needing to haul stuff about and/or trailer some stuff. get a plow for it. and then get tractor sized for equipment for actual tillage. vs trying to combine stuff and making some ugly compromises possibly. everyone has different setup / situation.

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with dave M7040 75-100 HP tractor you are in "CAT 2" 3pt hitch range. vs a smaller light weight "CAT 1" 3pt hitch. CAT 1 stuff you can easily destroy if not careful. CAT 2, or heavy duty / commercial stuff is what you will most likely be looking for. so you do not quickly destroy stuff..