Where does it stop?

[Deezl Smoke]

So I started out intending to buy a 25hp tractor with a loader and backhoe. The pricing was somewhat close between the brands I had narrowed it to. But then one salesman says he can get me into a larger frame for the same money, just that it will be gear drive. (which I prefer) So I take that and ask the other salesmen, and then that bidding war starts, until one of them again says, well if you're willing to go that much, for a few bucks more you can have the 30hp and step up even further. Read deere 3033r. Now Kubota comes back with the L4701. Maybe if I wait another week or so, I'll be quoting a 600hp quad track.

So for a lower hour usage, loader, hoe and mower tractor, about where is the "best bang for the buck"? Is the small framer like the BX25D and 1025R the better value, or with all other things equal like trailering capacity etc., is the better value in like the L series lower numbers or the deere 3 family? Other brands included.

I do want to get into some custom work, but only for hobby money. Stuff like clearing a pad for a small out building or mowing down briers and digging a trench for a water line etc. I like the idea of full cat1 three point vs. cat1 limited.

I'm not a small person. 5'11" and will be back to my more normal weight of about 240 soon now that I got my hernia fixed. But I am large framed and pack that weight pretty evenly.

 

[KennyG]

If you are looking at digging/excavating as a lot of the use, I think you definitely want to move to the 30HP class. And full Cat I is an essential because of the greater range of motion. I do a limited amount of ground work with my 24HP tractor and it's good but if I did a lot, I would want more weight.

 

[s219]

If you plan a lot of front loader work, don't get the gear drive, it will be slow and tedious. I'd need a longer list of the type and size of your projects to give proper advice. Think about the implements you would need, then the sizes and HP required, and pretty soon you will find the zone you should be shopping in. Shop based on the uses of the tractor, not for the tractor or price.

 

[jmc]

I prefer gears too but my first tractor (Ford 1920) had to be almost stopped before changing gears without grinding. You definitely want some kinda synchronized transmission, preferable between forward and reverse too, for loader and trimming work.

A 30 HP tractor might have better resale than the smaller one.

Also compare loader capacities and hydraulic flow rates to run the loader.

 

[Gator6x4]

During your research also check and see at what RPM the tractor produces it max horsepower. There is a lot of difference, noise wise and vibration wise in setting on a tractor you have to run at 3200 RPM's to develop 30 horse power and ones that develops 30 horse power at 2600 RPM's.

 

[teg]

Don't forget about the weight of the machine and attachments, you'll have to get to the job site.

PS. TBN is also good about spending other people's money...

 

[arrow]

Ok, straying from the hydro vs. gear discussions, I'll go by what you are saying and will stay with your preference. To me, a smaller tractor that will be used occasionally for heavier work but most of the time will be used for lighter duty things like lawn cutting, I'd get the smaller. Even if you are on the side of the Oregon mountains that get snow, a small tractor with a snow blower can move a lot of white stuff. If it is a constant diet of heavier stuff such as digging dirt, clearing, skidding logs, etc. you'd be better off with the larger. If it is a major part of your plan to do outside work, I'd go larger. Do not let price get in the way of how you are going to use your tractor as that is like you going to different restaurants because one throws more food on the plate than the other. Your body only needs what it needs.
There are alleged axioms such as "get the biggest tractor you can afford" but the reality of this statement is that the owner is doing more and more strenuous work with the tractor as he/she gets the idea of what the tractor is capable of. Invariably it's not the size of the tractor so much as the appetite for what the owner wants to do with it that has increased.

Your bodily size should be accommodated no matter what tractor you choose. Your criteria for ownership seems to be all over the place e.g.: price, tractor size, usage and ergonomics. I would suggest formulating a clearer picture of your desires and then go from there.

If I weren't skidding logs out, and speaking to a line of tractor I know (Mahindra) and not trying to make another tractor brand recommendation , I would have gotten the Max 20 something series which is more like the BX series. One of these with a snow blower, rototiller, backhoe and mower deck would fit in like a glove for how I would use a tractor more so than the Mahindra 3016 I have now. But my largest criteria (making firewood from scratch) would not have been fulfilled nearly as well with the smaller tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

If you plan a lot of front loader work, don't get the gear drive, it will be slow and tedious.

If you buy a tractor with an FEL and gear transmission you will be in a small minority, perhaps 2%. Should you decide to sell in a year or two upon figuring out all your needs, the market for your FEL/gear tractor will be limited and the offers you receive LOW.

FEL/HST/R4 Industrial tires are purchased together 90% of the time, with tire choice being the largest variable.

I started my tractor experience with a sub-compact John Deere 750 gear, no FEL. If I were good size physically I would find shifting gears all day in the tight operator's station of a small tractor uncomfortable. The 9" ground clearance on sub-compacts is limiting.

 

[sea2summit]

Never heard of anyone complaining about their tractor being too big....

BX25 wills every thing you have time for it to do, but if you want several projects done Ina few weeks/months a bigger tractor is better. I've got the BX and an MX and while I use the MX for 90% of the stuff I do now I still won't get rid of the BX.

 

[jeff9366]

I do want to get into some custom work, but only for hobby money. Stuff like clearing a pad for a small out building or mowing down briers and digging a trench for a water line etc. I like the idea of full cat1 three point vs. cat1 limited.

Do not solicit paid work until you have purchased ample LIABILITY INSURANCE. Inevitably you will rip out a fiber-optic cable, back into a house wall, or something else and be liable for big bucks. People lose their homes and land in damage suits.