Buying Advice L2501 or L3301?

[k0ua]

The 2501/3301/3901 all use the BH77. Only the 4601 can fit the BH92.

I have an L3200 (now the 3301), which is the same basic tractor as the 2501 but with 32HP instead of 25. It is adequate for everything the OP described, but sometimes I wish I had more power when pulling a box blade full of heavy soil, as the tractor has to work hard. So in retrospect I probably would have gotten an L3800 (now the 3901). But that issue only shows up in about 2% of my use of the tractor. For the other 98% it's fine. When box blading gravel or dry/light soil, it's just fine.

So I'd say the 2501 is probably fine for most of what you describe. The 3301 would be better if you need more PTO horsepower, and the 3901 would be best if you need even more PTO horsepower and/or plan to do heavy/difficult grading work with a box blade or similar.

I should note that I have not driven an L2501. The engine is actually a slightly larger 3-cylinder than in my L3200, despite the lower HP, and it makes its rated power at 2200 rpm versus 2800 rpm on my L3200. So it may be that the L2501 is a de-rated "sleeper" with gobs more torque down low to make up for the HP rating. I would not at all be surprised if this was a clever strategy on Kubota's part to meet Tier IV final requirements but still offer a tractor with good performance. I'd want to drive both L2501/3301 back to back to see how they feel.

I have also wondered what the 2501 could be "turned up" to with an injection pump tweak.

 

[TheMadOne]

Thanks for all the help, I'm leaning toward the L3301 due to wanting to move onto more ground someday. It makes sense to me to get the most hp now, since it seems to be getting more expesive every year.

Other than the pretty much manditory box blade and pallet forks, any recommendations on what implements I should get first?

Also, what features should I try to make sure are included? Rear remotes? Which valve style? Float or detent or spring?

 

[s219]

If you are doing serious grading work with a box blade, you'll want a hydraulic top link for sure, and maybe a hydraulic side link. Top link is the most important by far. For that you'll want a float/detent valve. The other valve(s) can be a standard dual-acting valve unless you have a need for something different (they offer float/detent, standard dual-acting, and dual-acting with detent. The Kubota valves run about $1100-1500 depending on the number of them and configuration.

This off-the-shelf hydraulic top link is a perfect match for the L series:

A-TLH1, Ford / New Holland, Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder

And this side link is a good match:

A-SLH1, Ford / New Holland, Hydraulic Side Link Cylinder

You can shop around using those model numbers to find the best price.

 

[jeff9366]

Early on consider a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment, sold by the T-B-N store.

VIDEO: ratchet rake - YouTube

Threads from the T-B-N archive: Google

 

[TheMadOne]

Well, it's in the hands of Kubota Credit now. I don't have the best score(660 FICO a year ago), so we'll see if I'm posting pics of a L3301 or an 8N when they get done processing my credit ap.

 

[Fallon]

I have a L3200, which is identical to the L3301 except for tier 4 emissions junk. Those 2 tractors are the same except engine & HP. Personally I'd be disappointed with any less HP than I have. Weight defines what a tractor can do, HP just defines how fast it will do it (except for some PTO related stuff). You can go with the smaller machine if you are fine being slow & power limited. I'm traction limited as often as power limited on my machine.

Definitely get the SSQA, although it doesn't matter to much where you get SSQA forks from. Ilm happy with my R4 tire compromise. Less traction than R1s but more carrying capacity & less yard tearing up. Whatever you do, load the rears, its unsafe to use the loader without & you are very traction limiteded. You still need 3pt ballast on the back for loader work though.

I love my HST & recommend them highly, although tranny types can be a religious type argument.

 

[TheMadOne]

Just an update, tractor is here, for now. I got three rear remotes, and they weren't in stock, so they sent the tractor down without, and will take it back to install when they come in. I went with:

L3301
LA524 Loader
Land pride BB1272 Box blade
Rimguard in the rear tires
3 rear remotes(Not installed yet)

Next on the list is top and tilt. Then either a tooth bar or forks.

Does anyone know where I can get rigid stabilizers? My google-fu has failed me so far.

I'll take pictures tomorrow, as it was raining today when they delivered.

 

[Citydude]

Just an update, tractor is here, for now. I got three rear remotes, and they weren't in stock, so they sent the tractor down without, and will take it back to install when they come in. I went with:

L3301
LA524 Loader
Land pride BB1272 Box blade
Rimguard in the rear tires
3 rear remotes(Not installed yet)

Next on the list is top and tilt. Then either a tooth bar or forks.

Does anyone know where I can get rigid stabilizers? My google-fu has failed me so far.

I'll take pictures tomorrow, as it was raining today when they delivered.

Nice! Good choice.

 

[teg]

...Does anyone know where I can get rigid stabilizers?

Kubota Dealer, Whole Goods (not the parts dept)

 

[s219]

Do you mean telescopic stabilizers? The Kubota dealer can order them for $175. Wholegoods part # is L8430.

If you want off the shelf hydraulic top and side links, these are perfect fits:

A-TLH�1, Ford / New Holland, Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder

A-SLH�1, Ford / New Holland, Hydraulic Side Link Cylinder

You can shop around to find the best deals. I believe I paid under $300 for both when I bought.