New Tractor Time

[IndianaGuy]

Hello,
I have been looking at buying a tractor for about a year and have done my research but wanted to consult with actual tractor owners first. I own 5 acres, that is primarily wooded, with a creek and an open meadow that has a high water table. Water collects in old skid steer ruts. Frogs etc. It does dry up in summer though. Creek divided property into two. Back acreage has a ridge but then flattens out. Pictures attached of meadow.

My goals/expectations for use are to:
1) Move firewood, pulling logs to firewood process area
2) Mow the meadow with a rotary cutter
3) Till 1/2 acre and plant buckwheat for my bees
4) Have a pond dug (rent excavator OR hire out) and use tractor to move dirt
5) Move mulch (25 -30 yds a year), ripp rapp, balled/burlap trees.
6) Make a bridge to access back half of property. Probably use steel beams to support tractor weight.
7) tow log splitter and chipper around

Lets get to the tractors. All hydros. I've been reading threads here on and off for a year and I took the time to go through all of the archives regarding each tractor and "5 acres".

1) Kubota B2650. Its light so moving wood through the meadow and mowing the meadow wont create more ruts. I've read that you should move up one size tractor and my initial choice was a B2601. It has good hydraulics, good FEL lift capacity and some niceties such as tilt steering and floor mats. It fits in the 3rd bay of my 3 car garage too (no pole barn or external garage). It seems like the best size for my forested property and somewhat wet areas, which do actually dry up in late summer. 3 Kubota dealers all within 15 miles or so, which will be nice if warranty claim or service.

2) Kioti CK2610. Heavier. Might tear up meadow more but more stable? and better FEL lift (~1250). Wont have to buy as heavy rear ballast when lifting trees or heavy objects. Will have to put ROPS at 45 degree angle to get into garage.

3) I've demoed the L2501 and found the CK2610 to be a little nicer, with more FEL lift so figured if I went heavier than a B2650 I would go Kioti. Not opposed to L2501 but just like the 2610 better.

4) Interesting option here. About 2 hours from me sits (2) Kioti Ck30s and (2) Kioti Ck35s. Both new. I am a little leary that dealer is too far away but the tractors have been on lot for awhile so maybe I could low ball them and see what happens? CKs have tilt steering, 3 inches shorter than CK10s and no DPF.

Attachments:
I actually just bought forks from Everything Attachments as they're 200lbs vs the 300lbs that Land Pride produces. Figured I could allocate more FEL lift this way. (I guess I am have to buy a tractor now:laughing
Also need box blade, ratchet rake, and RC.


B2650 w/ FEL (60 inch bucket, forks, 4' RC, BB, quick hitch and filled tires: about 19k before tax
CK2610 with same setup but 5 foot cutter is $20,600 before taxes
L2501 " " ~20k
CK30 with FEL: They're asking $20,500 0% on 60 mos. No attachments
CK35 w FEL: Theyre asking $21,900 w 0% on 60mos. No attachments.

THANK YOU for any advice, info, thoughts etc.

 

[TheMadOne]

Okay, I usually tell people that they've undersized on their first ideas, but I'll be honest, it sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of what you need. Any of the tractors you listed would work well for a 5 acre property, though you may have to cut larger logs into multiple pieces. I do with the L3301, which is why I'm on the lookout for a larger used tractor for that work. Dragging a log will damage soft ground and mess up grass in wet conditions. No two ways about it. If you're that worried about ruts and plan to move full logs across the meadow I suggest a grapple to carry them with.

Your other option is to rent a ditch witch and lay drain tile, though I don't know what your local laws/codes would be regarding the permitting required to do so. Unless the wet area is where you plan to put your pond, then that kind of solves itself.

 

[IndianaGuy]

Thanks. Yes, I've tried to do my homework on this. I am going to dig the lowest spot of the meadow out and make a small pond. No aeration but will try to add plants to help clarify the water. Its really just a central place I can get water to run to to hopefully dry out the rest of the area. I'll excavate some trenches to the "pond".

My wife, at this point, is soooo tired of me talking about tractors that she doesnt care what I get. I feel that the 2650 has the right size chassis but dimensionally, the L series or CK10/CK series arent that much bigger. I just wonder if the 2650 has enough grunt to drag trees. I've read that people love them though.

 

[dragoneggs]

My wife, at this point, is soooo tired of me talking about tractors that she doesnt care what I get.

Well Guy, this is why we are here for you!

 

[TheMadOne]

I move a bit of timber with the L3301, and it's not perfect for larger, heavier stuff on my terrain, which is a lot of exposed or barely covered shale. I sometimes have to cut logs in half to move them without straining the tractor unduly. But if your ground is relatively flat and smooth, then you should be able to manage with the B. Might have to cut the occasional log in half, but nothing you want to do is impractical with it.

I'd see about spending time in seats and seeing what you like. I'm not sure what the Kioti's use for HST, but some people hate the Kubota rocker pedal with a passion. Might want to see if you're one of them before committing.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'd see about spending time in seats and seeing what you like. I'm not sure what the Kioti's use for HST, but some people hate the Kubota rocker pedal with a passion. Might want to see if you're one of them before committing.

Good advice... once you settle on size and it sounds like you are close, go sit in the different seats and check for comfort, ergonomics, reaching for different controls, pedals, sight lines, etc. If you are tall or heavy, a particular model might suit you best.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I will add that when pulling logs, weight is very important, the same goes for ground engagement ext.

The odds that you will run out of HP when pulling or doing FEL work will be rare, you will spin tires much sooner.

Iron weights and even filling tires can be expensive, tire filling is Rim Guard (Beet Juice), Windshield washer fluid and there is a foam also but it's crazy expensive.

So buying a heavier tractor up front will help lower the cost of adding weight and lots of ballast later.

I can't really help you on your choices, I don't know enough about them to comment without looking them all up. When I compare I look at HP, Tier 4 emissions (some companies have better systems, only over 26hp), weight and lift capacity on the FEL, how many range HST. I went as far down as we're the tires were made lol.

Of the New Holland, Case, Kubota, Mahindra and JD's I looked at in my area (30-60hp), Mahindra came out on top for all the above.

I have heard really good things about Kioti on here but don't have dealers around here that I'm aware of.

This is also what I did, I was about to sign on a brand new 1533 HST but found a used 05 4320 at a reasonable price, today I lifted the biggest thing I have yet and was glad I didn't have a smaller tractor. .

So I'm not gonna tell you to spend all your money on a big tractor, but I would look very close at the weight you will lift, the weight you plan to drag, times that weight by 1.5 and buy the tractor that fits.

It is cheaper to buy a bigger tractor now then it is later.

Also make sure the thing can fit in your garage or barn, since I bought a cabbed tractor, shortest door I can fit under is 8ft 1in and limbs under that height become enemy #1.

Another thought comes to mind, the forks you bought don't fit all loaders, JD loaders and a few others are proprietary. SSQA is prob what you bought.

Just a few things to think about.

Edit: I have under 3 acres, I use my tractor for 80% FEL work to loader capacity was at the top of my list when I was looking. I have 3-4 head of cattle and 36 chickens, I would like to get into bees this year.

All the smaller tractors can do what the big ones can, they just take a little longer to get the job done. Besides FEL lift capacity lol

Edit 2.0: if you sell honey you can claim the tractor as tax exempt, I claimed my tractor as such because I only use it for feeding and raising livestock (cattle and chickens), but it has to be a business as in charging sales tax on your product. That's the law here in Ohio anyway but that lowered my payment quite a bit. Stuff like lawn mowers are not eligible for tax exemption here in Ohio.

 

[jeff9366]

RE: tractor weight

Heavier tractors are more stable. More inertia with increased weight. Generally larger wheels/tires carried on wider axles.

I have never seen data on tire/ground loading but as tractors get heavier, up to a point, they have larger tires, so tractor weight compressing soil does not increase very fast with tractor size. I daily cross upscale residential turf with my 5,400 pound tractor, outfitted with R4 tires, in 2-WD mode, without marking dry turf.


RE: transporting tree trunks

Many pull tree trunks from the rear/center drawbar. Sometimes I do too. Logs get pretty dirty, which dulls saw chains quickly. (Carbide saw chains remain sharp much longer cutting gritty wood but need a diamond wheel to sharpen.) If you pull from the rear/center drawbar on hard surface roads tow chain in road contact will abrade rapidly.

Better to use a cross-drawbar and short boom (also known as a hanging tree) on the Three Point Hitch, allowing you to elevate trunk butts. This reduces trunk friction against the ground and keeps logs 85% clean. Elevated, a small tractor can pull large tree trunks. Judiciously positioned tow chain preserved from road abrasion.

Mount one of Ken's bolt on 5/16" chain grab hooks on the cross-drawbar. Much more convenient than threading tow chain through a clevis fitting. ( Also Ken has THE BEST FORESTRY HOOKS.)
HANDI HITCH
SHORT BOOM POLE ADAPTER
Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>

Best to cautiously transport sectioned trunks with SSQA forks on the FEL, or Three Point Hitch pallet forks, which keeps logs cleaner than any other method. Carrying heavy loads on the FEL is always potentially hazardous. Start with light loads, heavier as you learn.


RE: Log Splitter

Consider a 110 V or 220V electric log splitter rather than a tractor powered log slitter. Electric cheaper, simpler, less oily.
Lowe's, Home Depot, Tractor Supply all offer numerous electric log splitters on their web sites. ( Maybe Walmart too. )



RE: Chipper

I had a premium quality Wallenstein PTO powered chipper. The first year, fine. In year two, sharpening and adjustment became a pain. I returned to burning limbs, etc.


RE: Buckwheat

Probably the best germinating seed on earth. I use Buckwheat as a weed suppressant in my Blueberry field. If you scalp-mow, then scratch/prep with a chain harrow, or, more slowly, a Ratchet Rake, you will experience excellent germination. A tiller is fine but not necessary for Buckwheat in Indiana.
WINGFIELD IN ILLINOIS: The Wingfield American Drag Harrow - Made in the USA, built to last!
TSC: TSC chain harrow - Google Search

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

They make 3pt logging winches to, there's a thread on here all about them with cable chokers.

 

[oosik]

When I first moved onto my 80 acres in 1982 I bought a new Ford 1700 4WD. It was a fantastic unit and I used it until 2009 when I bought my Kubota M6040.

I went bigger because I needed a tractor that could "swing" a heavy rear blade and bring the gravel out of the ditches on my mile long gravel driveway. I wanted to be able to lift/move larger chunks of my massive virgin Ponderosa pines, lift my big rocks and with larger tires - not get stuck so often when moving around the property(my neighbor appreciates this point). I use the larger tractor to power a larger chipper - I thin and chip 750-900 smaller pines each spring to maintain my pine forests. I finally bought a grapple and with this unit and my M6040 I'm able to lift/move just about anything on the property.

Currently my tractor with grapple, rear blade and rim guard loaded rear tires weighs 10,100 pounds. The only thing I have to watch - I don't cross any of my lawns in the spring - tire ruts.

Just be certain that you have determined the largest/biggest job YOU plan on doing and that what you buy will safely do this job. My Ford 1700 was just coming into its own with me using it for 28 years and I got top dollar for it when I upgraded.

I did not buy the Kubota to get things done faster. I've been retired quite a while and fast is not one of my concerns. It was the ability to do larger jobs in those areas where the work can't be broken down into smaller units. Around 2008 I realized that while I still had the jobs that the Ford could handle - the bigger jobs were looming large on my to-do list and could not be accomplished with the smaller tractor.