In the market for my first tractor

[4tillingdirt]

Focus on tractor weight for your tasks, not horsepower. None of your iterated tasks include PTO-powered implements, which is where horsepower becomes relevant. The most common PTO powered implement is a Rotary Cutter of which Bush Hog is one brand.

Stability is the issue for hill work and FEL loads. Tractor weight is the most important factor in tractor stability. I suggest you need a tractor with a bare weight, as shown in tractor brochures, of 4,000 pounds. Also inquire whether or not rear wheel widths are adjustable. After tractor weight, the outside-to-outside wheel width is second most important factor in tractor stability.

Forget tractor brands until you refine your tasks further.

Is your road gravel or dirt? Stream(s) to cross? Center crown required for proper drainage?

What about snow removal?

How close are the various tractor distributors to your property?

Have you operated and performed upkeep on a tractor before?

So would the Mahindra 3550 be a good choice? Comparing it to similar size TYM and LS, the Mahindra is a foot wider.

 

[jeff9366]

MAHINDRA 3550: TractorData.com Mahindra 355 tractor information


Yes, if 75" width with R1/ag tires, 81" width with R4/industril tires, 84" implement widths, is not too wide for the gates and storage doors you need to pass through and trees you want to pass between.

I suggest cutting a 1-1/4" piece of PVC pipe 84" long and walking around your property and woods to gauge probable tractor width.

5,500 pound bare tractor weight will making loading your log mill easy and safe.

Whatever tractor you buy, have dealer fill rear tires with liquid, which will lower tractor center of gravity further.

HST transmission gives precise control when using FEL for loading tasks.

Be sure tractor can enter storage area with ROPS folded, better with ROPS up. Height of my Kubota ROPS, FOLDED, is 86".

 

[rScotty]

So would the Mahindra 3550 be a good choice? Comparing it to similar size TYM and LS, the Mahindra is a foot wider.

By now you seem to have found that there doesn't appear to be a a perfect "do-everything" tractor, the trick is to concentrate on the things that are important.

First, some history....In my life we've had a couple of rural homesteads with 5 to 40 acres to take care of and a variety of tractors through the years. And tractors themselves have changed. When I started out, most tractors had gear shift transmissions and only a few offered a power steering option - even with a loader. Canopies were folding canvas. Today a HST tranny (what a wonderful thing!) is common and most every machine has PS. The canopy is sturdy and often insulated. Seats are hugely improved.

Some things haven't changed much with today's tractors. Lights are still iffy, loaders themselves are about the same, and the 3 point hitch has actually regressed; that is, today's 3pt hitches aren't as sophisticated as they once were. PTOs are little changed; the most critical item there still being a separate PTO clutch so that the PTO can be worked completely independently of the tractor's motion.

40 HP and 4000 lbs have been mentioned as minimums. I'd agree. That is also roughly the dividing line between hobby and larger machines. I wouldn't go smaller at all, and would not be afraid to go a little larger. Stability and comfort go both go up quickly when you get to the 50 hp and over class. And stability is the absolute number one thing on your list. You are going to be surprised at how large you have to go to get decent sidehill stability just for traveling along without the complication of trying to do off-camber work at all.

Some things to note: Few people stay with the tractor that they buy originally, but there seems no other way to get the experience. So be sure to consider resale. By this time next year you are going to know a LOT more about tractors, and that isn't very long from now. As for New versus Used, don't automatically assume it needs to be new. These things last. Tractors are not at all like mileage-based automobiles in the way they wear. Guys (and a gal or two) who enjoy turning wrenches will definitely feel comfortable with a decently maintained used tractor. They know that any of today's major brands of tractor - moderately well-maintained - will probably last a lifetime or longer. And that with very minimal repairs. A few years ago I went through the motor and tranny on an older JD for a collector. I had full expectations of doing a normal rebuilt on wear surfaces, but was astonished to find that the wear inside was negligible. This was on a machine that worked hard and had a pretty tough life for decades. But the truth is that real repairs on any tractor are rare. You'll get more comfortable with that in a few years. It's not at all unusual for a person's first tractor to be brand new and his next one to be low hour used.

Or your second machine might not be a traditional tractor at all. Ours isn't. On our current place we knew we weren't farmers. We were expecting to do lots of tree and stream maintenance, a bunch of building things like rock walls & roads. And a fair amount of just lifting, carrying, & moving dirt around. Living in the mountains stability is key. So after looking at and trying tractors with add-on loaders and 3 point backhoes we went in a different direction and bought a machine actaully made for loader and backhoe work in rough terrain - one of Kubota's TLB line. 60 hp and 8000 lbs. Downsideis it was rather expensive. Upside is how nice and easily everything works and the stability is awesome.
For us there is still a little bit of true tractor type 3pt large garden work that we need to do like mowing, seeding, fertilizing, racking and blading.....for that type of surface work on an acre or two a little used 18 hp 4wd compact tractor is the perfect complimentary machine. It's handy, and used implements for it are very inexpensive.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[WV birdman]

So would the Mahindra 3550 be a good choice? Comparing it to similar size TYM and LS, the Mahindra is a foot wider.

I love that tractor, but money plays a part in these decisions too. For the price they want for just tractor and loader...I can get the MX4800 with a 20' 10k trailer, rotary, box blade and loader. Not to mention they include chains and binders AND my local dealer is throwing in a Stihl chainsaw with each package purchase.

 

[rScotty]

I love that tractor, but money plays a part in these decisions too. For the price they want for just tractor and loader...I can get the MX4800 with a 20' 10k trailer, rotary, box blade and loader. Not to mention they include chains and binders AND my local dealer is throwing in a Stihl chainsaw with each package purchase.

I'd say you are over-thinking this and that the problem is simply being a novice. My advice is to cure that before spending huge dollars.
Consider simply buying any good used 4wd loader tractor in good shape in the 35 to 50 hp size with the expectation of using it for a year or so while gaining understanding of what features are important to you. Then go looking to spend real money for a new machine. Don't worry, whatever you get will do lots of work with you. Look for one in decent condition. You can realistically expect that a good used machines will require near zero upkeep for the first few years. If it were me, I'd look first to be buying from a local or neighbor.

And some of the things you learn might come as a surprise. Loader breakout force may be important to you, or turning radius, or hydraulic flow, or remote hydraulics. How about quick-attach buckets or attachments? Tire type? Transmission? Control layout? Depending on your back, joints, and body, even operating position can be a deciding factor. Plan on making your first machine a teaching tool. It'll teach you what to look for and still do a lot of work.
rScotty

 

[WV birdman]

I'd say you are over-thinking this
rScotty

I guarantee you are right! My wife would agree as well :laughing:

I have people on the lookout for a good used tractor in WV and my eyes are open here in SC...scouring craigslist as well. I don't plan on making a move until end of summer. Lots can happen....including more overthinking.

 

[WV birdman]

By now you seem to have found that there doesn't appear to be a a perfect "do-everything" tractor, the trick is to concentrate on the things that are important.

First, some history....In my life we've had a couple of rural homesteads with 5 to 40 acres to take care of and a variety of tractors through the years. And tractors themselves have changed. When I started out, most tractors had gear shift transmissions and only a few offered a power steering option - even with a loader. Canopies were folding canvas. Today a HST tranny (what a wonderful thing!) is common and most every machine has PS. The canopy is sturdy and often insulated. Seats are hugely improved.

Some things haven't changed much with today's tractors. Lights are still iffy, loaders themselves are about the same, and the 3 point hitch has actually regressed; that is, today's 3pt hitches aren't as sophisticated as they once were. PTOs are little changed; the most critical item there still being a separate PTO clutch so that the PTO can be worked completely independently of the tractor's motion.

40 HP and 4000 lbs have been mentioned as minimums. I'd agree. That is also roughly the dividing line between hobby and larger machines. I wouldn't go smaller at all, and would not be afraid to go a little larger. Stability and comfort go both go up quickly when you get to the 50 hp and over class. And stability is the absolute number one thing on your list. You are going to be surprised at how large you have to go to get decent sidehill stability just for traveling along without the complication of trying to do off-camber work at all.

Some things to note: Few people stay with the tractor that they buy originally, but there seems no other way to get the experience. So be sure to consider resale. By this time next year you are going to know a LOT more about tractors, and that isn't very long from now. As for New versus Used, don't automatically assume it needs to be new. These things last. Tractors are not at all like mileage-based automobiles in the way they wear. Guys (and a gal or two) who enjoy turning wrenches will definitely feel comfortable with a decently maintained used tractor. They know that any of today's major brands of tractor - moderately well-maintained - will probably last a lifetime or longer. And that with very minimal repairs. A few years ago I went through the motor and tranny on an older JD for a collector. I had full expectations of doing a normal rebuilt on wear surfaces, but was astonished to find that the wear inside was negligible. This was on a machine that worked hard and had a pretty tough life for decades. But the truth is that real repairs on any tractor are rare. You'll get more comfortable with that in a few years. It's not at all unusual for a person's first tractor to be brand new and his next one to be low hour used.

Or your second machine might not be a traditional tractor at all. Ours isn't. On our current place we knew we weren't farmers. We were expecting to do lots of tree and stream maintenance, a bunch of building things like rock walls & roads. And a fair amount of just lifting, carrying, & moving dirt around. Living in the mountains stability is key. So after looking at and trying tractors with add-on loaders and 3 point backhoes we went in a different direction and bought a machine actaully made for loader and backhoe work in rough terrain - one of Kubota's TLB line. 60 hp and 8000 lbs. Downsideis it was rather expensive. Upside is how nice and easily everything works and the stability is awesome.
For us there is still a little bit of true tractor type 3pt large garden work that we need to do like mowing, seeding, fertilizing, racking and blading.....for that type of surface work on an acre or two a little used 18 hp 4wd compact tractor is the perfect complimentary machine. It's handy, and used implements for it are very inexpensive.
good luck,
rScotty

That's a good read. Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I guarantee you are right! My wife would agree as well :laughing:

I have people on the lookout for a good used tractor in WV and my eyes are open here in SC...scouring craigslist as well. I don't plan on making a move until end of summer. Lots can happen....including more overthinking.

Many tractors sold on eBay as well.

1) $22,500 USED BUT NEW 216 MAHINDRA 4565 2WD TRACTOR W/LOADER | eBay

2) Tractors | eBay


It is OK to overthink, so long as you do not injure yourself.


Update your profile with your state.
If you add your West Virginia location to your profile I will post eBay tractors there.

 

[PJSprog]

So, forgetting brand or specific tractor, the implements I'll absolutely need are rotary cutter, loader, box blade?

I would add a rear blade to this list. Very useful in dirt, gravel, and snow.

 

[jenkinsph]

Lots of good advice so far ^^^^^

I would add top and tilt hydraulics to the three point hitch, makes using box blades, grader blades and other tools much easier to adjust. On hilly properties there is a need to adjust or tilt implements frequently. The top link (hydraulic) makes a huge difference with box blades and I consider it to be essential. You need two rear hydraulic remotes for the top and tilt functions and another set for box blades with rippers or rear blade with up to four hydraulic functions. Hitching up the various rear implements is a lot easier with telescopic lower links and a quick hitch, these make connecting up a heavy brush mower or box blade an easy change out.

Having a removable front end loader (fel) with a third hydraulic coupler set is ideal too. This provides for operating a grapple which will soon be on your want list.

Lots of opinions on transmissions but I recommend you get a good heavy compact with the hydrostatic transmission. Much easier for most people to operate and are pretty bullet proof today.