2018 JD 2025R

[RalphVa]

I WOULD NOT want to jump to a 3 series. I'd like to have a good 2019R, if they'd make it, somewhat similar to a Kubota B2301. Don't need more than 18 or 19 hp. The 4010 with 18.5 hp used only 0.46 gph of fuel and had a monstrous FEL. Yeah, it was slower than the 2025R's, but that's about all. The 2025R uses closer to about 0.7 gph. Don't have enough hours on it to check it against the 4010 yet, but I think it's a bit more than the 24.2/18.5 hp ratio.

Don't think the 1025R's fuel consumption was that much lower, about the same as the 2025R's.

The 1025R is a piece of junk.

Ralph

 

[mahd776]

Went yesterday and looked at the 2018 2025R. Drove it around the lot a bit. Salesman put it and a 1025R side by side so we could compare them. Right off due to bigger tires the 2025R seems bigger and more tractor like. Looking at specs really is not that much difference but sure looks like it. Initial impression is I like the 2025R over the 1025R and I think that has to do with the bigger tires and ground clearance. They now have 5 units on hand and more coming.

Salesman is a younger fellow and has been very good at what he is doing and is quite familiar with his product line. Told me he will price match with other dealers even out of state dealer. Told me he wants me as a customer. That I live in his market share and he will do what he needs to do to make me a customer. Don't know if I should base a decision on the salesman but out of those I dealt with at Mahindra, MF and Kioti he has been by far the best

Next week my brother and I are going to visit the local Kubota dealer. Brother is a Kubota fan so going to check those out. Will see what happens!

 

[Squidbait]

mahd776,

Next week my brother and I are going to visit the local kubota dealer. Brother is a Kubota fan so going to check those out. Will see what happens!

Shopping around and looking at other brands (and other dealers) seems like a smart thing to do IMHO. The dealer relationship (and service and parts department service) is important too in addition to the machine you purchase.


RalphVa

I WOULD NOT want to jump to a 3 series. I'd like to have a good 2019R, if they'd make it, somewhat similar to a kubota B2301. Don't need more than 18 or 19 hp. The 4010 with 18.5 hp used only 0.46 gph of fuel and had a monstrous FEL. Yeah, it was slower than the 2025R's, but that's about all. The 2025R uses closer to about 0.7 gph. Don't have enough hours on it to check it against the 4010 yet, but I think it's a bit more than the 24.2/18.5 hp ratio.

Don't think the 1025R's fuel consumption was that much lower, about the same as the 2025R's.

The 1025R is a piece of junk.

If I may ask, RalphVa what types of work have you done with your tractors over the years?

 

[RalphVa]

Unusual, I know, but I'd try to compare a 2025R with a B2301 both with some sort of implement/mower to allow startup of the PTO. Thinking the new 2025R has the gentle startup of the PTO that the 1025R had. Have no idea how the B2301's is. Older Kubotas used to have clutch starts of the PTO. I'd also query the sales person on how one checks the hydraulic suction screen and changes the hydraulic oil on the tractors. As I recall, it was quite involved on the 1025R. Think I checked on a B2301 and found they didn't even recommend checking the suction screen. Think they have a spin-on filter like is on the 2025R but more designed in vs. the off-to-the-side one on the 2025R (but easy to get to).

On my tractors, I mainly use the bush hog in spring/summer/fall and chipper/shredder in the fall/winter. Used to run the carryall a fair bit to haul mulch in it and the FEL down to the big garden. Never really did this in the 1025 nor 2025 because I moved to raised beds about 6 years ago after getting CHF.

Big thing I did with the 4010 right after getting it was to haul about 22 tons of gravel over the tractor path with the FEL. Put 660 hours on it. Only did about 110 hours on the 1025 and a little over that now on the 2025.

Also used my soil ripper and disc hiller (both on an old JD M tool bar) on the 4010 when reconstructing the big garden post Gravely era. Gave those away, as I went to no till. Turning brakes on the 4010 were very useful for turning at the ends of garden rows. Can rotate right around the stopped rear tire. Need a country mile to turn a 1025.


Ralph

 

[Squidbait]

Unusual, I know, but I'd try to compare a 2025R with a B2301 both with some sort of implement/mower to allow startup of the PTO. Thinking the new 2025R has the gentle startup of the PTO that the 1025R had. Have no idea how the B2301's is. Older Kubotas used to have clutch starts of the PTO. I'd also query the sales person on how one checks the hydraulic suction screen and changes the hydraulic oil on the tractors. As I recall, it was quite involved on the 1025R. Think I checked on a B2301 and found they didn't even recommend checking the suction screen. Think they have a spin-on filter like is on the 2025R but more designed in vs. the off-to-the-side one on the 2025R (but easy to get to).

Interesting. When I looked at my owners manual for my 1025R I did see in the service section where a person is supposed to remove the one rear tire in order to remove the suction screen. That didn't seem like much fun, but it is what it is I guess. I think I saw a link to a YouTube video where a guy shows you how to remove (or clean) the suction screen without removing the rear tire. I haven't watched the video yet, so can't say if is accurate. You know more about working on a 1025R, because you owned one. I am a new1025R owner.

On my tractors, I mainly use the bush hog in spring/summer/fall and chipper/shredder in the fall/winter. Used to run the carryall a fair bit to haul mulch in it and the FEL down to the big garden. Never really did this in the 1025 nor 2025 because I moved to raised beds about 6 years ago after getting CHF.

Big thing I did with the 4010 right after getting it was to haul about 22 tons of gravel over the tractor path with the FEL. Put 660 hours on it. Only did about 110 hours on the 1025 and a little over that now on the 2025.

Also used my soil ripper and disc hiller (both on an old JD M tool bar) on the 4010 when reconstructing the big garden post Gravely era. Gave those away, as I went to no till. Turning brakes on the 4010 were very useful for turning at the ends of garden rows. Can rotate right around the stopped rear tire. Need a country mile to turn a 1025.

Sounds like you have done good amount of PTO, ground engaging, FEL work. You have worked your tractors like tractors. I plan on using my machine mostly for mowing. (I do have a FEL that I can use for moving snow.) I guess using a 1025R for mowing seems like a bit of overkill. I mow our church yard that about four acres with a few trees, but is most open. It also has slight slopes and a few areas that are a little tricky (steeper rises near the edges - which I may have to weed eat now instead of mow for safety sake.) I have looked at the JD X700 series machines, but they just don't seem to be sturdy enough (to me) as far as the tractor frame is concerned especially where the engine is located on the frame. The frame metal is like 1/8" of inch thick at that location. I think the sturdier frame of the 1 series tractors is the better way to go. Plus I have wished I had 4 wheel drive for several years; just for use is a couple of areas in the yard where our two wheel drive tractor tears up the yard from spinning (if I fail to use the differential lock). I have been using the church's JD 430 lawn and garden tractor to mow with for several years. It is/was a solidly built machine, but it is showings its age. It is 26 years old now. It needs some TLC that I can't personally can't give it - I don't have the know how. Plus many parts are not readily available now. It would probably take about $2,000+ to get rebuilt parts (hydrostatic pump plus other parts) and labor to get the 430 in better working order. IT has been worked on a couple of times in the past four or five years, but it is still having issues. Having a new(er) machine will hopefully make things easier on me for mowing, plus I can move snow (and other stuff) now if I need to.

 

[RalphVa]

Interesting. When I looked at my owners manual for my 1025R I did see in the service section where a person is supposed to remove the one rear tire in order to remove the suction screen. That didn't seem like much fun, but it is what it is I guess. I think I saw a link to a YouTube video where a guy shows you how to remove (or clean) the suction screen without removing the rear tire. I haven't watched the video yet, so can't say if is accurate. You know more about working on a 1025R, because you owned one. I am a new1025R owner.

Sounds like you have done good amount of PTO, ground engaging, FEL work. You have worked your tractors like tractors. I plan on using my machine mostly for mowing. (I do have a FEL that I can use for moving snow.) I guess using a 1025R for mowing seems like a bit of overkill. I mow our church yard that about four acres with a few trees, but is most open. It also has slight slopes and a few areas that are a little tricky (steeper rises near the edges - which I may have to weed eat now instead of mow for safety sake.) I have looked at the JD X700 series machines, but they just don't seem to be sturdy enough (to me) as far as the tractor frame is concerned especially where the engine is located on the frame. The frame metal is like 1/8" of inch thick at that location. I think the sturdier frame of the 1 series tractors is the better way to go. Plus I have wished I had 4 wheel drive for several years; just for use is a couple of areas in the yard where our two wheel drive tractor tears up the yard from spinning (if I fail to use the differential lock). I have been using the church's JD 430 lawn and garden tractor to mow with for several years. It is/was a solidly built machine, but it is showings its age. It is 26 years old now. It needs some TLC that I can't personally can't give it - I don't have the know how. Plus many parts are not readily available now. It would probably take about $2,000+ to get rebuilt parts (hydrostatic pump plus other parts) and labor to get the 430 in better working order. IT has been worked on a couple of times in the past four or five years, but it is still having issues. Having a new(er) machine will hopefully make things easier on me for mowing, plus I can move snow (and other stuff) now if I need to.

I did not remove a rear wheel to service the suction screen on the 1025R. I did some sort of short cut. Don't remember at this point. Think you need some spare parts to remove some of that (seemingly more complicated) stuff back there to avoid having to remove those heavy rubber lines back there with paint on them, etc. Whereas, it's easy on the 2025R. You just remove the lower lift arm spindle between the arms (don't need to remove a rear wheel like you did on the 4010) and then remove 2 small bolts to take a cap off that holds the suction screen in place. The spin-on filter is located out to the side. You can change it out actually without having to get at the suction screen.

I used to mow about 4 to 5 acres of church lawn in NJ with a ZTR Scag. That lawn was fairly flat, but there was a small section where we used to have to run push mowers over to mow because it was too steep for the pieces-of-junk old Sears tractor underbelly mowers we used before. The Scag would go right down the slope. Don't think I tried going UP the (very short) slope. I'd just come in above and go down, making a few swipes to do it.

Could mow the 4 to 5 acres in a little over 3 hours with the Scag vs. as much as 6 or 7 hours with those Sears tractors and push mowers.

Ralph

 

[KennyG]

I don't think the 1025 is overkill for mowing. In fact, I mow a few acres at home and a few at the church also with my 2320. I'm glad I went with the 2 series for the larger tires and ground clearance for the non-mowing uses of the tractor. Except for the infamous engine driveshaft U-joints, maintenance is very easy on the 2 series.

 

[Paystar]

Ralph....you are correct, the Kubota B series does not have a suction screen, just two spin-on hydro filters. servicing is very easy.

The BX on the other hand does have a screen, and can be removed with the rear tires on, but I take one tire off when I service the neighbors BX just because it makes it much more easy to do.

 

[Squidbait]

I did not remove a rear wheel to service the suction screen on the 1025R. I did some sort of short cut. Don't remember at this point. Think you need some spare parts to remove some of that (seemingly more complicated) stuff back there to avoid having to remove those heavy rubber lines back there with paint on them, etc. Whereas, it's easy on the 2025R. You just remove the lower lift arm spindle between the arms (don't need to remove a rear wheel like you did on the 4010) and then remove 2 small bolts to take a cap off that holds the suction screen in place. The spin-on filter is located out to the side. You can change it out actually without having to get at the suction screen.

I will have to keep this is mind.

I used to mow about 4 to 5 acres of church lawn in NJ with a ZTR Scag. That lawn was fairly flat, but there was a small section where we used to have to run push mowers over to mow because it was too steep for the pieces-of-junk old Sears tractor underbelly mowers we used before. The Scag would go right down the slope. Don't think I tried going UP the (very short) slope. I'd just come in above and go down, making a few swipes to do it.

That's Cool.

Could mow the 4 to 5 acres in a little over 3 hours with the Scag vs. as much as 6 or 7 hours with those Sears tractors and push mowers.

Three hours isn't too bad. Six to seven hours? No thank you. :thumbdown: I hate having to mow a yard over a series of days instead of just one day.


KennyG

I don't think the 1025 is overkill for mowing. In fact, I mow a few acres at home and a few at the church also with my 2320. I'm glad I went with the 2 series for the larger tires and ground clearance for the non-mowing uses of the tractor. Except for the infamous engine driveshaft U-joints, maintenance is very easy on the 2 series.

That's good to know KennyG. I don't think I really need a 2 series tractor; I don't really have any ground clearance issues. (A bigger tractor would be nice but not neccessary) I am more concerned with having a wide stance and a low center of gravity when mowing. I have seen some of the B Series Kubota Tractors and I would be nervous to try to mow our church yard with such tall and narrow machines. On a flat yard I'm sure that would be fine, but where I mow - not a chance unless it was weighted down quite a bit.