Comparison What to buy?

   / What to buy? #1  

Paramudd

New member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
9
Location
Dennis , MS
Tractor
None, Shopping for one
Looking for the best value. 35-50 hp. Hydro trans., FEL, At least 30 PTO hp. If money was not an option I would probably go with a John Deere 4052r. But since money comes in to play. That pretty much knocks that one out. I have looked at the Mahindra 2538 and 2638 ( like alot about both of these) John deere 3038 is out. Too light and hate the aluminium rear end housing. Looked at the Branson line but have not been on one. Not fond of the Kubotas but if they are the best i'll check them out. Bless me with all your wisdom..LOL
 
   / What to buy? #2  
Bless me with all your wisdom.


In order for contributors here to help you in a meaningful way, you need to describe your land, soil and tractor tasks. Your budget is useful too; as is inclination to perform your own repairs, rather than relying on a dealer.

The only useful information you have provided is 'best value', which probably means an open station, sparely equipped machine. It may mean lowest cost per pound of tractor.

Brands tell you nothing until a model is parsed. The prudence and experience of the operator, which includes keeping up periodic maintenance, as well as operating within tractor limits, contributes more to reliability than what brand is on a tractor. This is especially true of brands where the model line is made by more than one manufacturer in more than one country, then painted to match other like branded tractors, as in the case of Mahindra and Deere.

The Mahindra 2600 series machines are made by TYM. You will get more for your money if you just buy a TYM.

Kubotas are made entirely by Kubota. Deere and Kubota are tops at parts availability. Deere and Kubota have 65% (+/-) market share within USA in tractors 35-50 horsepower.

Branson is often the least expensive 35-50 horsepower tractor option.
 
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   / What to buy? #3  
I think Kioti is made entirely by Kioti too FYI.

Some information says that Kubota purchases major castings from Kioti's parent company foundry. Where Kioti also sources its castings of course. Things like Engine and transmission castings I think. I'm not sure if they source from others or all from there. But Kubota is one of Daedong's (sp?) major customers. My information is second hand but I have seen some evidence of this.
 
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   / What to buy?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Well I have a 10 acres with well drained soil. I also will be transporting my tractor 150 miles to do work at my deer camp. I would like to keep the price under 30K. Would like to be able to lift a standard 800-900 bale of hay with it from time to time. Will be used for Bush hogging, plowing, Lifting pallets of fertilizer and seed. Moving dirt and gravel. etc.
 
   / What to buy? #5  
Do you have the trailer now? What is its width? What is its carrying capacity? Does it have trailer brakes?

Here is a mowing calculator:
Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

Determine how much time you are willing to spend mowing, then tells us what width of Rotary Cutter we should use in our calculations to determine PTO horsepower. Will you be mowing exclusively grass or will you want to mow saplings at the hunting camp, which requires more tractor horsepower?

Is your inclination to perform your own service and repairs, rather than relying on a dealer?
 
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   / What to buy?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I figured that brush was included in the mowing. I will be getting a medium heavy rotary mower. Probably cut up to 2-3 inch saplings. at times. I do not own a trailer but will be buying to fit my tractor and assorted implements that i will haul. I figure 30 pto hp should get me enough for a 5-6 ft rotary mower.
 
   / What to buy? #7  
Would like to be able to lift a standard 800-900 bale of hay with it from time to time.

If 900 pounds is your MAX FEL lift you can get by with 2,700 pound to 3,000 bare tractor weight. Tractors in this weight start at 25-horsepower. Personally, I would like some margin so I would consider tractors with bare tractor weight of 3,200 to 4,000 pounds.

The optimal way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish your tasks. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.
 
   / What to buy?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
That is not the max. I'm talking about without excessive ballast in the back. I wouldn't move a 900lb bale with a tractor that light. The terraces and hills would make that dangerous. I would prefer to have something in the 2000lb range for the FEL. but could get by with a little less.
 
   / What to buy? #9  
I figured that brush was included in the mowing. I will be getting a medium heavy rotary mower. Probably cut up to 2-3 inch saplings. at times. I do not own a trailer but will be buying to fit my tractor and assorted implements that i will haul. I figure 30 pto hp should get me enough for a 5-6 ft rotary mower.

To cut saplings as you desire you need a Rotary Cutter with a Category 4 frame and driveline, which most would consider heavy duty. Such Rotary Cutter come in five foot and six foot widths. For hunting camp work most choose a R/C slightly narrower than the tractor tire spread so it will fit between trees and other obstacles. Backing a trailing R/C in a restricted area, especially even a minor slope, can be almost impossible.

PTO 30-horsepower should be just enough for a five foot, Category 4 frame mower. You will need PTO 40-horsepower for a six foot Category 4 frame mower.
 
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   / What to buy? #10  
In order for contributors here to help you in a meaningful way, you need to describe your land, soil and tractor tasks.

That is not the max. I'm talking about without excessive ballast in the back. I wouldn't move a 900lb bale with a tractor that light. The terraces and hills would make that dangerous. I would prefer to have something in the 2000lb range for the FEL. but could get by with a little less.

What terraces and hills?

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than flat land operation and requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have adjustable rear wheel spreads; wide rear wheel spreads reduce tractor lateral instability.

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires mean more ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking, yielding a less disturbing passage over rough pastures and woodlands.

You cannot use a moldboard plow unless the centerline of the front tires is in line with the centerline of the rear tires, so this precludes spreading rear wheels. However, you could spread rear wheels and adequately rough hunting camp land for seeding with an Offset Disc or a Tandem Disc Harrow with 22" diameter pans, rather than a moldboard plow.



Now you need minimum bare tractor weight of 4,000 pounds.
 
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