heavy brush hogging

[rantumscoot]

I'm a newbie primarily looking to maintain about a mile of 20' cross country ski trails that will go through some seriously thick bittersweet (2-4" roots) with some muddy areas. Initial cuts are being made by local friend with bulldozer and excavator.

As I'm doing this twice/year, speed isn't a factor. If I use a 48" or 60" rotarty cutter, what power at PTO do I really need? Any ideas on attaching a brush chipper (rear or side PTO) for laying down wood chips to slow future growth?

 

[Darren]

The folks around here that maintain 40' pipeline right of ways are running Heston 4wd tractors in the 50-60 pto hp range. Of course they don't go over a R/W yearly so there's usually some fair sized saplings and brush by the time they return. Along with the tractor there's usually a couple of guys with chainsaws in the crew for the heavier stuff. Once that's cut, the guy on the tractor uses the mower to shove it off to the side, They're more interested in fast than pretty. The R/W looks fine but they leave piles off to the side along the way.

Depending on how much brush you have, you could be looking at a lot of chipping. Don't expect the chips to stop regrowth unless it's piled deep. Might be easier to pile it out of the way.

 

[beenthere]

Rant
Welcome to the TBN.
If, as you state, the R/W is cleared initially, and you are going to mow it twice a year, there will be no need to plan anything heavy in the way of brush to chip, or a brush cutter, or high hp.

If the ground is left too rough after initial clearing, then getting a brush cutter through the debris or over the terrain may be the only major problem (dirt mounds, root balls, rocks, etc).

 

[neilly2]

Do you own a tractor or looking to buy? Are you buying a tractor soley for this use?

 

[rantumscoot]

Looking to buy, preferrably slightly used. Kubota and JD have good servicing dealers in my area.

 

[neilly2]

If you are only using the thing to keep that trail clear, I would by a very used machine. I would also look towards a landscaper (28-30HP) series tractor as opposed to the smaller tractor with the mid-PTO. The latter fetches a premium price on the used market vs. the landscape series, and if you're not finish mowing than you don't need it. It sounds like you are looking for a single use machine.

If you will be using it around the house my reccomendation would change drastically and depending on the acreage.

I have a 30 HP tractor (not sure of the PTO HP) and a 5' brush hog. I can take down about a 3'' sapling and chip it up with brush hog. If you're clearing yearly, your need for power won't be that drastic, but a little more power never hurt.

If you give more info you'll get more info.

 

[SPIKER]

I agree with the others, a 30+ HP 4wheel drive used tractor. with a 6' heavy duty brush hog. that makes 4 cuts for 20' witha bit of over lap. reason I say 4 wheel drive is the swampy areas. you MAY want to look at a unit that already has a FEL on it too which is great for removing fallen trees limbs and rocks as well as grading out areas and moving fill around as needed...

Don't be afraid of other brands too. three are lots of non-big 3/4 tractors out there. I would also suggest a GEAR drive as from what it seems you will be going straight and at nearly same SPEED for a LONG time 4 miles each hogging which would be 2~4 times a year for best maintained skiing snow mobiles and or 4 wheelers will HELP knock down the stuff soem too... not sure if you plan on having OPEN use or closed for personal only use. anyhow have fun and get some GOOD protective clothing and maybe add a protective shield to the back if you only plan on doing it onece or twice a year. a brush hog can toss stuff around a lot...


just my 2 cents worth.

Mark M

 

[rantumscoot]

Appreciate your input. I hadn't even thought of protecting from the backside - shows I'm a newbie.

 

[SPIKER]

hey there: HENRO posted with pictures of HIS solution to protection from behind in the build it you'reself or project forum.

Mark M

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> hey there: HENRO posted with pictures of HIS solution to protection from behind in the build it you'reself or project forum.</font>

That thread is here...

But in addition to protection for the operator, protection for the tractor should not be forgotten. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Be sure to lay on the ground and look up from under the tractor, and check out the filters and linkages that are exposed waiting for a stick or stone or whatever to do some grief!

In addition to the shield for operator protection, a skid plate or some kind of barrier between the tractor bottom and the ground would be a great idea. I plan on making one eventually. I actually did make a small one after the plastic cover on my front driveshaft failed. My dealer repaired it under warranty, but I am not absolutely sure that I did not do something to cause it to fail.

Laying on the ground under the tractor looking up is something we all should do when we buy a new tractor, experienced users or newbies...if the tractor is new to us, we should evaluate the potential for damage...that's my take on it anyway... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif