Ballast: Calcium Chloride VS H2O&Antifreeze

[MVVineyard]

Multiple Questions:

#1) Is Calcium better than a Water/antifreeze mixture in your tires?
#2) I was quoted a cost of 175 dollars for Water/antifreeze in a Kubota B7510 with R4 industrial tires. Is this figure too much?
#3) In my area we rarely get below freezing, is this something I can do myself with just water and a specific nozzle for my garden hose?

Comments/Suggestions?
Thanks

 

[DmansPadge]

Even if it doesn't freeze where you are.. you still need the antifreeze for corrosion/rust protection.

 

[RoyJackson]

You'll want an air-liquid adapter (available at NAPA and other fine stores) rigged to the hose.
You should mix the antifreeze/water first (or CaCl, if that's what you're going to use).

You'll also want a drill motor driven pump.

After that, it's just a matter of jacking the tire and rotating the valve stem to the 12 O'Clock, removing the valve core ands pumping the fluid in...
not really too much to it.

There's several posts in the TBN archives..do a search. You'll find a wealth of information

 

[Farmwithjunk]

One advantage that Cal/Chlor has is it's weight. A gallon of water is around 8 pounds. A gallon of water with Cal/Chlor can reach 10 to 11 if a strong enough mixture is added.

$175 seeems to be about the "going rate" at tire shops and tractor dealers. A plastic barrel, a GOOD pump, and all the required hardware won't cost near that, and you're able to do your own fill/un-fill when you need.

I'm a bit old fashioned I'm told. I won't even think about running Cal/Chlor in a tubeless tire. Sounds like a recipe for disaster.

About 3 years ago, I found where I can get 55 gallon drums of windshield washer solution at wholesale price. (Around $.58 a gallon last barrel) I use that now. My two tractors use 51 and 74 gallons per rear wheel. That nets enough weight to satisfy all my needs, andit doesn't rust away my rims when I get a puncture. (And that does happen)

I use a "Teel" chemical pump (with stainless steel body, rubber impeller, and thermal protected motor) from W.W. Grainger. It set me back about $60 It's pumped dozens of tires. (It comes with 2 "rebuild kits", consisting of seals and impellers. I haven't used the first one yet)

As was mentioned, NAPA has the adapter for the valve stem.

I've never considered using just water. Our record low temp was set in Feb of 1994 when it dipped to -22 degrees. (That was one day after we had the deepest single day snowfall on record. 22". )

 

[MVVineyard]

Thank You for your answers.
I will do a search and dig through the archives to learn some more about this.
I guess it's only a one time thing and the cost is not an issue, it's just all starting to add up fast. A buck or two here, a buck or two there, and before you know it, BAMO my savings is EMPTY!
They say owning a tractor is like owning a boat, it sucks more money from you than you can shake a stick at.
This is still interesting and I am curious to learn where my 175 bucks is going.
MVVineyard

 

[RoyJackson]

"This is still interesting and I am curious to learn where my 175 bucks is going."

Mostly the labor rates if you have the work done...

If you do the work yourself, most the cost is in the liquid you're going to use. As mentioned, I wouldn't use just water.
Although I can see the advantage of good quality pump, you'll only do this job once (unless you puncture your tire), so a cheapie would do the work.

This job takes a couple, three hours, so plan your time.

 

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( In my area we rarely get below freezing, is this something I can do myself with just water and a specific nozzle for my garden hose? Comments/Suggestions? -MVVineyard )</font>

Similar climate here. I have tube-type tires so I didn't worry about corrosion. I made an adapter from garden hose to tire chuck (attached). Then jacked each tire a half inch off the ground, turned the faucet on low, and stopped to bleed air a couple of times per side. This isn't rocket science.

One tip, remove the valve cores. I didn't, and had to replace them to restore the tight seal.

We see temperatures in the mid 20's maybe once per 20 years. Neighboring farmers advised that none of them use antifreeze in loaded tires. I suggest make local inquiries to see if you need antifreeze.

 

[Soundguy]

As mentioned.. cacl is heavier than coolant/h20.. however I wouldn't use it unless I had tubes.

Also.. for h20/coolant. You don't need full protection.. even if it just slushes up.. you are ok.. just don't want it to freeze smack solid. same with ww fluid.. just lighter.. and beetjuice.. heavier..than coolant/h20

Soundguy

 

[bajacrazy]

I know that windshield wash is commonly being used these days for loading tires instead of calcium especially with tubeless tires. Just recently I had one dealer tell me about a citrus solution. Talked another dealer today that hopefully will be setting up a tractor for me if we come to terms, he uses Sweetener plus. He was claiming that it weighs as much as the calcium but is less corrosive than water.

 

[Soundguy]

id guess sweetener was a beet juice/rimguard clone.. yes.. heavier, and non corosive.

soundguy