R1 vs R4 and tractor width

   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #1  

woodlandfarms

Super Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
6,117
Location
Los Angeles / SW Washington
Tractor
PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
I am still battling all the logistics of cg / tractor width, yada yada.

I have seen a number of times people claim that R-4's provide a wider stance, but when I go to the tractor dealer, they all say R1, dished out wide, is the widest way to go... Of course there is no one who has a measurement in their brochure.

Anyone want to comment on this?
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #2  
I could be wrong, but R1s appear to have less width than R4s.
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #3  
woodlandfarms:

I have a NH TC29DA. According to my manual: Turf Tires Dished In = 57.6",
Dished Out = 60.2"; R-1's Dished In = 54.3", Dished Out = 59.5"; R-4's Dished Out Only = 62.0"; Turf Special/Galaxy Tires Dished Out Only = 67.75". I hope this helps your decision making process :D! Jay
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #4  
BoBoMasterDesign said:
Sorry for offtopic, but this links helped me to find everything for holidays (halloween):

May I suggest you not post advertising.
Bob
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #5  
Doc_Bob said:
May I suggest you not post advertising.
Bob
I'd guess it's the only reason for this person joining!:mad: :mad:
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #6  
I suppose the post that you guys are referring to has been deleted.

There are many factors that play in with overall width. I guess if you just took the tires alone that R4s would be wider than R1s. However usually R1s have more traction. Then you have to take into account how wide the tires are set on the axle, if they're dished out or not, etc.
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #7  
Glowplug said:
I suppose the post that you guys are referring to has been deleted.

Yes, the post is gone. good riddance!
Bob
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #8  
When I inquired about R4's for my TN, my dealer told me that they weren't what I was thinking. The larger size R4's New Holland supplies don't loo like the ones on the smaller tractors. He also said that he's never run R4's on my farm. I took his advice and have been happy.

Andy
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #9  
AndyMA said:
When I inquired about R4's for my TN, my dealer told me that they weren't what I was thinking. The larger size R4's New Holland supplies don't loo like the ones on the smaller tractors. He also said that he's never run R4's on my farm. I took his advice and have been happy.

Andy

Andy, there is a difference between R4 on a CUT and R4 on an AG tractor??? I never knew that, thanks for the post. Now, to complete the package, post some pics. :D
Bob
 
   / R1 vs R4 and tractor width #10  
woodlandfarms said:
I am still battling all the logistics of cg / tractor width, yada yada.

I have seen a number of times people claim that R-4's provide a wider stance, but when I go to the tractor dealer, they all say R1, dished out wide, is the widest way to go... Of course there is no one who has a measurement in their brochure.

Anyone want to comment on this?


Woodlandfarms,

I disagree with your dealer. Here is a bit of background on tractor tire width adjustments. I don't know your level of experience with tractors and have broken the explanation down assuming you are coming at this fresh.

Picture this, the wheel is made of two parts. The rim and the center section. The rim typically has 4 or 6 loops welded to the inside, offset from the centerline of the rim. The center section bolts to those loops and to a flange on the axle of the tractor. Starting with the rim positioned so the loops are closest to the tractor, you can then bolt the center to the inside edge or the outside edge of the loops thereby adjusting the distance of the rim center line to the axle flange. (Moves the centerline of the rim closer or farther from the tractor. Because the loops are offset, you can also flip the rim around and move the rim 2 step farther away from the tractor. So, that's 4 adjustments by manipulating the rim.

The center section is typically dished like a pie pan. So the part that bolts to the axle is not in the same plane as the part that bolts to the rim. Flipping the center section will move the outside flange either closer to the tractor than the axle flange or farther away. If you balance a pie pan on your fingertips, the rim can be down or up. The change in distance is equal to 2x the dish.


All this manipulation moves the center of the rim in and out about the same amount for all tire types. Because the width of R4's is about 2x the width of R1's, the outside to outside distance of R4's is greater than that of R1's at every adjustment. This makes the R4 equipped tractor wider and more stable than a R1 equipped tractor. The tipping point is the outside edge, which is farther from the center line of the tractor.

Turf tires can be much wider than R4's, but I don't know if turf wheels are set up to be manipulated. (sorry, no turf tire experience).

To tip the tractor over, you have to move the up-hill tire up higher than the CG of the tractor and move the CG of the tractor outside of the down hill tire. With the tires far apart, that takes some doing. With the tires close together, it's a lot easier. Now imagine that each tire weighs about 600 pounds. The farther the tires are apart and the more they weigh, the higher the tire has to go to move the tractor's CG outside of the down hill tire. That's the benefit of filling the tires with a liquid solution. Because the solution is in the tire, it is close to the ground and that also benefits by lowering the CG further. R4's being larger than R1's hold more solution again benefiting stability.


Whew! Sorry I got so wordy, but there is a lot of detail in tractor stability.

Hope this helps more than confuses!

jb
 
 
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