So... why are the headlights in the front?

[GreenRules]

And not in the fenders where they would actually do some good?

Sorry if this is a repost, but with daylight savings time in effect, I am back to cursing about my loader blocking the lights. All of our OLD tractors have the lights in the right place, so why are th enew ones not?

[john_bud]

So, why not move them? Top of the ROPS would be a good spot.

Also, my 1963 ford TLB has the headlights in the grill. So the OLD tractors are not all different.

jb

[Redneck_Randy]

Because the people that designed these tractor never in their life worked on a trac`tor at night. They just design them to look good. Looking good is better then function to them.

[Timber]

There not headlights there grill ornaments. If they were headlight they would be kind of bright. I put pink lens covers in mine and pipe cleaner eye lashes

[N80]

I have the same problem. So someone give us a step by step on how to get them up on the ROPS. Please describe wiring instructions on a 3rd grade level for those of us who are 'electricity' impaired. Also, as drilling ROPS is politically incorrect, how to attach the new lights? Were to get the new lights? I'd want something with a headlight type beam rather than a flood or pencil beam.

[daTeacha]

Try automotive fog lights for a wide flat beam, and driving lights come in a variety of beam patterns. For mounting, a couple of squared off U bolts should do the trick.

I put lights on the ROPS of my B7100 by mounting a pedestal mount light to a piece of angle iron. Then running two bolts through the angle, one on one side of the ROPS and one on the other, allowed me to generate sufficient clamping force to keep them in place without doing anything more than scratching the paint.

Then the ROPS rust police found the missing paint.

[Buckeye_Jim]

Some things to think about here:
1) Mount light hanging down from ROPS so as to provide some protection to the fixture from tree limbs, etc.
2) Splice into the wires going to one of the headlights with a new cable.
3) Take plenty of time in feeding that cable such that it will be shielded from abuse or catching on anything.
4) Your headlight fuse may need to be larger to handle the extra load. You could just try it and if the fuse blows, buy a bigger one.
5) Consider a switch for some circumstance where you would want to turn off the new light while the headlights were still on.
6) The ROPS light may need to rotate or be pointable.

Jim

[kwolfe]

I am in the process of doing this now. There are lots of threads regarding aux lights. I am running a separate 12v outlet from the already exiosting Kubota spare wiring harness under the seat. I bought two grounding magnets from HF for $6 a piece. I am buying the lights tomorrow. They will mount to the magnets which have more that enough strength to hold on to the ROPS. This way, if I hit a limb or don't need them, I simply unplug them from the outlet and pull thhem off the ROPS.

[jimmy1]

Originally Posted by kwolfe

I am in the process of doing this now. There are lots of threads regarding aux lights. I am running a separate 12v outlet from the already exiosting Kubota spare wiring harness under the seat. I bought two grounding magnets from HF for $6 a piece. I am buying the lights tomorrow. They will mount to the magnets which have more that enough strength to hold on to the ROPS. This way, if I hit a limb or don't need them, I simply unplug them from the outlet and pull thhem off the ROPS.

I assume with this system it would be easy to turn the lights around to use in reverse as well?

[schmism]

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i bought 2 sets for a whole $16

have yet to mount them... more important fish to fry at the moment but they will eventually make it to the rops. 2 faceing forward, 1 backward and probibly one behind the seat to light up the 3pt.

Peeps may not be big on drilling the rops but the factory lights mounted to my rops are mounted on weld on brackets.

Figure if the factory did it that way it was good enough to do again.