Tractor Sizing Beginner needs some advice on size and implements!

[witel]

Regarding whether a backhoe is worth it or not ... when I had the same question, I created this thread. I feel like I have my answer now.

 

[jbrumberg]

Nathan OR;

The more informed you become the higher the likelihood you be happy with the tractor you finally purchase. Ask a lot of questions here at TBN and also with your "locals". Many of the tractor websites have tractor selector software that based on your input (which appears heavily weighted towards FEL use) will recommend the "appropriate" tractor. I would also recommend that you get a "feel" for both the tractors of interest as well as the local dealerships. A good dealership could save you money in the long run. If ergonomics is important to you you definitely need to test drive the tractors. I went with the NH TC29DA due to "fit" for my gaining girth, decreasing mobility, and usability by my rebuilt body parts as well as this Class II CUT's size, power, weight, footprint, and manuverability. My tractor easily accommodates a 58" tiller, 60" MD RC, and a 96" LR (I plan to acquire a 60" or 65" BB once "She Who Must Be Obeyed" decrees.) for attachments. I will warn you that there are a lot of HP junkies in TBN land, but you should try to get the most HP for whatever size tractor frame you decide upon. Try not to compare tractor specifications as the criteria are not consistent brand to brand and the "specs" appear to be driven by Sales and Marketing Departments . Good luck on your research and aquisition ! Jay

 

[woodlandfarms]

Nathan

Not sure what part of Oregon you are in, but if either McMinville or Bend are in your area, maybe consider TYM. A fairly new tractor line, so it doesn't have the name like JD (Or the resale at this point honestly) but that forum is pretty quiet... I think because those tractors are really put together well. very few complaints. I had a big package of toys and tractor for 20K from them (330HST). It was my second choice behind an expensive PowerTrac but I scored on a new/used PT which is better for my hilly land.

There is a fantastic TYM dealer in Newberg (MckMinville) Valley View - Steve is the contact.

I would pick this over a used tractor any day...

Carl

 

[Mickey_Fx]

There is a fantastic TYM dealer in Newberg (MckMinville) Valley View - Steve is the contact.Carl

What's the name of the dealer and are they in Mc or Newberg or somewhere in between?

 

[flusher]

Hi everyone, thanks up front for any help you can offer.

My wife and I have finally paid off our truck, and are ready to get the tractor we've been needing for 5+ years. We have a 4 acre llama ranch, all flat, on a very gentle grade. About 1/2 acre is in lawn, another 1/2 acre in fruit orchard. It's Oregon (that's OR-ee-gun, folks) so the ground does get muddy, but I don't want to ruin the grass in the winter (I'm planning on R4 tires).


Thanks,

Nathan

Nathan:
I have a layout similar to yours: 10 acres of flat pasture land, about 1/2 landscaped area and about 3/4 acre remaining of an old almond orchard. Here's my setup:

-- 21 hp (engine) Kubota B7510HST with LA 302 FEL (4-ft wide bucket) bought in May05 new for $12600 plus tax = $13300 (10% down, 0% for 36 months)
- King Kutter rotary mower (brush hog), 4-ft wide, $650 at TSC
- KK middle buster/subsoiler, $140 at TSC
- Yanmar RS-1200 rototiller, $300 at local grey market tractor guy
- KK box blade, 4-ft wide, $300 at TSC

To mow the grass I have a Huskee riding mower (18 hp, 42" cut) from TSC , $1000. I could have bought a mid-mounted mower (MMM) for the 7510, but decided it wasn't in the budget.

The 7-8 acres of weeds are mowed with the hog. Takes 8-11 hours depending on the height of the weeds.

To handle some tilling I plan for the future I bought a 1966 MF-135 diesel (45-hp engine) for $3600 last July. It's being refurbished and painted now.

This month I started installing the sprinkler system for the landscaped area. Plowed the lawn areas with the middle buster about a month ago and used Roundup herbicide on the weeds there. Next week I'll rototill the plowed areas and plant the grass. I'll probably wait until October to plant the shrubs. Cut the trenches for the PVC pipe with the middle buster plow.

With so few acres and jobs like mowing in the orchard and mucking stalls you probable want to steer clear of large CUTs that may be physically too large to maneuver in tight spaces.

I looked at the Yanmar 1700 (17 hp pto) with a Koyker FEL (4-ft bucket) for about $7000. But the tractor was 20+ years old and I wanted a new tractor since it's the first one I've owned.

 

[N80]

Here is another vote for the Kubota L4400 or the JD 990. In my opinion, the L4400 is the most tractor you can get for under $20K. I got mine for a tad over $19K with 4wd, FEL, Ag tires and rear remotes.

Personally, I would avoid trying to buy it all in a package. I know a lot of people do it, especially new tractor buyers. I recommend focusing on the tractor itself without regard to implement deals that might impact which actual tractor that you buy. Decide on the tractor first. Get the tractor, then do research into each implement that you want, then shop around, particularly for used stuff.

 

[woodlandfarms]

What's the name of the dealer and are they in Mc or Newberg or somewhere in between?

Valley View Tractor
Steve Roy
2610 E Hancock Street
Newberg, OR
503 554 8179

Like I said, it was a strong second choice... very well designed tractor, just opened their major US parts and tractor supply in Bend area. And the price and warranty were great.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Nathan_OR]

Alright I did some test driving this weekend, thought a lot more about what all you guys have said, and I have narrowed things down a lot. Here's a long description of my reasoning (since I found it helpful to read other folks' similar posts).

Regarding the backhoe, after reading Witel's thread, I agree I do want a backhoe. I have sprinkler ditches to dig over my whole 4 acres of pasture, french drains along most of my outbuildings, a new retaining wall about 100' long to build, a new septic tank going in in the next 2-3 years, and lots of big rocks in my property that might not come out with a FEL. So, if I had the ~$7k in my budget, I would buy one.

But, having sat on and played with several 20-25 HP tractors this weekend, I am convinced I want nothing less than the 30+ mid-sized CUT. So, given my 20k budget, even if I throw in some cash on hand, I simply cannot afford a backhoe. Too bad for me, but that's the way it is. I'll have to rent for the backhoe work, or put it off.

Now as far as getting a bunch of implements, I think N80's post makes a lot of sense to me. Trying to buy it all at once gets too complex. I'm just going to get the tractor and FEL and whatever options I know and want that will cost more to put in later. So that really just means the the tractor, FEL, and maybe brush guard, work lights, telescoping draft links (or quick hitch, but probably not both), and either a ballast box or a box blade. Speaking of which, quick poll: with a 2900 lb tractor, loaded R4s, and a box blade, will I have enough weight to do FEL digging, or should I get a ballast box and swap it on for FEL digging?

Anyway now that I know I'm really only trying to fit the tractor and FEL into my budget, and that I want more than 25 hp, I went and drove the JD 3120 and 3320. Just playing with a loader pile and the 300cx FEL, I felt I was taxing the 3120 when I would dig and push the throttle hard, whereas the 3320 handled it with ease. I think the 3320 will make me plenty happy in terms of power. The 3520 is more than I need (heck the 3120 would do everything I want, I just liked the feeling of the 3320 better). So I know I want the 3320 or equivalent from another manufacturer. I went and sat in a couple Kubotas, the L3400 (I think) and the B7800. The L was just too big for what I'm doing, I don't need that much tractor and I don't want that much size. Same on the JD 4x20 or 990. I also want my wife to feel comfortable using it to move hay from storage to the stalls, so the hydro is probably a must.

Anyway the B7800 just didn't fit me as well (6'5" 230). I felt a little cramped getting in and out (which I do a lot of, working alone most of the time). Also, using the loader, it felt a bit lightweight... the bucket full of gravel really moved the tractor more than with the 3320. Overall I didn't have a hard time deciding I liked the 3320 over the B7800.

The NH dealer was closed but I sat on a 34DA, and I think it's a great tractor just by looking it over, and playing with levers. It has a really nice layout. One small complaint: I really don't like the treadle pedal design. But my only real issue with the NH is there is only one smaller dealer nearby and he's only there part of the time. There are three JD guys within 20 minutes and they're all 20+ years in the business. I need to get a quote on the NH and drive it, though.

I'm also going to try out the TYM from the Newberg dealer woodlandfarms suggested. Heck maybe if I am willing to risk an unknown brand I will come away with a backhoe after all

So there you go, after all this I'm down to the JD 3320 vs. the NH 34DA (still need to drive that one) and maybe looking at the TYM stuff if they can get me the backhoe.

I'm going to spec out and price a 3320 but I'll do that on the JD pricing forum. I'll let you know what I think of the NH.

Big thanks for all the help fellas. Two weeks ago I had over 10 tractors written on my notes, now I'm down to two!

Nathan

 

[Z-Michigan]

The 3320 sounds great! Come to the green side...

On the NH, no complaints on the TC34 either. However, I would hesitate to get something with only one nearby dealer and not being sure about them. That's half or more of why I don't own a Kioti right now. Question - do you have any nearby dealers for Case International? Their CUTs are exactly the same as NH, just in red instead of blue. That would potentially give you more options.

Now as far as getting a bunch of implements, I think N80's post makes a lot of sense to me. Trying to buy it all at once gets too complex. I'm just going to get the tractor and FEL and whatever options I know and want that will cost more to put in later. So that really just means the the tractor, FEL, and maybe brush guard, work lights, telescoping draft links (or quick hitch, but probably not both), and either a ballast box or a box blade. Speaking of which, quick poll: with a 2900 lb tractor, loaded R4s, and a box blade, will I have enough weight to do FEL digging, or should I get a ballast box and swap it on for FEL digging?

I think ballast really depends on how much the box blade weighs and how much FEL lift you have. If you have a heavy ish box blade (500+ lbs) and your FEL capacity is just a little over 1000lbs, you may not need more ballast than that. I would skip the ballast box if you have any use for a box blade, unless you'll be working in areas too tight to maneuver with a box blade.

Definitely get either telescoping draft links or a quick hitch, but I agree that you don't need both. I would also add work lights at time of purchase as you'll find them useful before very long. Finally, any tractor with an FEL SHOULD have a grill guard - it's usually included in the FEL setup, though it may be a separate line item on the manufacturer's price sheet.