Minimum horsepower needed

   / Minimum horsepower needed #11  
For what you want to do you need a utility tractor with 50 hp or more. Sure some of the larger compacts could lift the bales and some could run the mower that you want. But, it will be much harder on the tractor. Compacts are really not designed for that kind of work. If you want something used, look at a MF 100, 200, or 400 series or Ford 2000 or Ford 3000 series. I don't know what would be in that size in JD, Case etc, but all the major manufactures have utilities in that size.
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I would like to use the loader with the bush hog attached......I've seen some mid 90's utility tractors with around 2000 hours.....I guess I'll need to look for something at least 60hp......thanks guys y'all have been very helpful.....Chris.
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed #13  
Personally I'd suggest at least a 55-60hp tractor. Also make sure you compare overall weight of the tractors you are looking at, that extra weight will help a lot when you start moving bales with your FEL.

Good luck!
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed #14  
ive always thought that the smallest tractor that was suitable for daily round bail work was a TN.

(large grain of salt.... i neither own nor operate one)
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed #15  
Chris, I don't know what part of the "heart of Dixie" you are in, but here on the Cumberland rim in Mid-TN moving round bales is more of a concern with tractor weight and stability than power. My large round grass hay bales run about 1,500 lbs. Lifting with a bale spear on my Mahindra 6500 is no problem. However, moving them around on my hills ... well let's just say until I fluid filled the tires and moved them out to their widest setting I sucked a small hole in the center of the seat a couple of times. A tractor on three wheels and a bale, pointed downhill causes quite a pucker factor. Now, I would not try to move them with my bucket -- no way to get a good, safe, stable grip on them. Could probably pick up from the side, but would feel really uneasy about much moving around I'd have less the 2' on the side and 2' on the bottom supporting a 5' x 6' bales. Bale spear is the ONLY way to go -- as long as the bale is back on the spear and the two short stabilizing spears, it's not going anywhere until you tip the spear down and back out.
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I'm located in North Alabama outside of Huntsville.......I do have a hill in the back and I was thinking a heavy tractor would be a wise choice......the tractor market is overwhelming.......is the mahindra made in india?
 
   / Minimum horsepower needed #17  
Mahindra & Mahindra, Ltd. is an Indian company. They started out as a general heavy industrial manufacturer -- built Jeeps under license from Willys-Overland -- Then in the 50' started making IH tractors under license. They are multinational these days (like most companies). Can't speak for all their tractors, but my 6500 breaks down like this:
Engine, tranny, final drive, frame, and most bodywork -- Mahindra/India
Front axle/drive -- Carraro/Italy
Wheels, tires, canopy -- Various/US
Loader, hydraultics -- KMW/US
Assembly -- Mahindra/US (Tomball TX and Calhoun GA)

While I love mine, the bottom line on tractors is a) what works for you and b) dealer support. I'm haying about 26 acres of pasture -- with the tractor at 5-15 degrees (up, down, or side) on almost all of it. I needed weight, stability, and power and found both a tractor that does that for me and a great dealer with Mahindra.

Given what you have described, I think most of the comments are on target. But the test is go to a bunch of dealers, try (drive and if they'll let you actually do something with them) tractors, get a feel for the dealers. Some will fit you better than others. Some dealers may be very attentive, others disinterested or lackluster. No one tractor is best for every person and every job -- in fact no one tractor is best of every person and a single job, or every job with a single person. This board is a great place to start and learn a LOT -- but ultimately what you get has to fit you, your jobs, and your budget (hated to mention that). Even buying used, I'd visit a bunch of dealers -- not necessarily to buy, but to get a feel for dealers -- that real "steal" on a Framistat 880 may be because the current owner got fed up dealing with the Framistat dealer. 2,000 hours is just well-broken in for most utility tractors. The key with used is how has it been maintained? Does the present owner have good records? Does the oil on the dipstick look reasonably clean, or more like overbaked cherry pie filling? Do the zerks show evidence of being greased recently or is there dried old grease that looks like 10-year old ear wax? My first tractor, the Allis 5020 was 20 years old and well over 1,000 hours (on a compact), but the guy had good maintenance records, manuals (that had enough dirty fingerprints to say they had been used), and knew exactly what wasn't working, what he had already done about the problem (or at least tried), a list of parts sources, ... clearly, though it looked pretty bad (rusted hood and fender removed), it was mechanically a very sound tractor. And that little two-banger diesel is one hard working son-of-a-gun ... So just take your time, learn all you can on here, and look and try a LOT!

Good luck and good hunting,
 
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   / Minimum horsepower needed #18  
JerryG said:
For what you want to do you need a utility tractor with 50 hp or more. Sure some of the larger compacts could lift the bales and some could run the mower that you want. But, it will be much harder on the tractor. Compacts are really not designed for that kind of work. If you want something used, look at a MF 100, 200, or 400 series or Ford 2000 or Ford 3000 series. I don't know what would be in that size in JD, Case etc, but all the major manufactures have utilities in that size.


Good answer!


Moloss,
I've loaded round bales with pallet forks (don't have spear), and mowed with a 12' bushhog.

Good luck,
 

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