Need advice - soup to nuts

[jbrumberg]

Two comments:

1) Horses consume money like it's grass. Just FYI!

2) I purchased a utility based on things that I MIGHT do in the future and things that would be "kind of nice to have." I find it is much bigger than I need for the things I actually am doing. I would have been better off staying smaller and using the extra money for implements. Something I didn't fully appreciate, but do now, is that the tractor is merely a power unit - all the actual work gets done with implements, and you will find you want far more than you may now think you will. Better to get the tractor sized for immediate needs and be able to buy each tool you want as its use becomes apparent. I know this is contrary to what many say about planning for future opportunities - I think that is good advice for professional farmers, but questionable for people like you and me. If you do want to do hay in the future, you will probably find that the necessary hay tools (specialized mower, rake, and baler) cost as much as, or probably more than, a used 2wd ag tractor capable of running them. Meanwhile you can be enjoying a handy sized CUT with HST and lots of toys to do various things quickly and conveniently.

Well spoken - Jay

 

[NoMo]

Unless you just have money to burn, it's too expensive to buy the equipment for only 10 acres of hay. Find a neighbor who is willing to do the cutting & baling on shares.

Assuming you plan on keeping the former owner's yard & field, my guess on HP is the 35-40 range. You'll want something big enough to run at least a 6' cutter. This will also be enough to do most everything else with the common CUT implements.

Drive as many brands & models as you can find and pick the one you like best.

 

[mikim]

first a correction ....some of the folks who visit here...yeah...and some LIVE here ..... You'll get a lot of good info here and a lot of options you may not think of yourself. That's good & bad....options can cost $$. My take on it = if your mower is still in good condition - keep it going for the yard - and teach the kids to use it. (they'll be old enough sooner than you think) Then buy with the rest of the property in mind. As stated before it's too expensive to buy hay equip for that little acreage. Use it for pasture and buy what hay you'll need later. So what's left? ... Mowing with a shredder, clearing woods?, YOU NEED A FEL (with a quick attach).... you may not know it now -- but you will need it later so might as well get it now. Thinking about the implements you'll need first is a good idea. Start there then buy a tractor to fit the implements you need, not the other way 'round. I'm guessing 30hp minimum..... probably 60hp max.... but that doesn't narrow the search much! There are so many choices out there in that range....good luck & good hunting.

 

[Oleozz]

My only suggestion is get yourself a tractor with a cab.

 

[95_tlc]

Thanks for all of the advice so far. I was wondering if there is a big difference in fuel usage ($$) between a larger 3 cylinder and smaller 4 cylinder diesel tractors. Seems I am near the crossover mark since I am probably looking in the 40 hp range.

For the bold out there, I need you to tell me what you would do if you were in my situation. I don't care if you are brand biased, just tell me if you had 4-acres to finish mow and 10-acres to brush hog and 16-acres to piddle on and keep down the underbrush. Based on your trial and error and experience if you were starting from scratch what would you buy? What tractor, what mower (belly, pull behind), what FEL and what tiller. I am a big boy, let her rip.

 

[JerryG]

Thanks for all of the advice so far. I was wondering if there is a big difference in fuel usage ($$) between a larger 3 cylinder and smaller 4 cylinder diesel tractors. Seems I am near the crossover mark since I am probably looking in the 40 hp range.

For the bold out there, I need you to tell me what you would do if you were in my situation. I don't care if you are brand biased, just tell me if you had 4-acres to finish mow and 10-acres to brush hog and 16-acres to piddle on and keep down the underbrush. Based on your trial and error and experience if you were starting from scratch what would you buy? What tractor, what mower (belly, pull behind), what FEL and what tiller. I am a big boy, let her rip.

There isn't enough difference between the two engines to make much difference.
I am bias toward turbo engines in tractors that come in Red. I have a 40hp turbo and did have the same engine without the turbo. There is all the difference in the world between the two. I am also bias against hydros, so I have a PowerShuttle. If I was buying another in the same size group, I would more than likely go for a DynaQPS transmission.

Here is something that I wrote up a while back telling the differences in manual transmissions.

1. Manual Shift: plain old standard shift transmission. No synchronizers thus you have to stop and clutch for each gear change. You can’t shift on the go without grinding gears. Usually have 6-8 forward gears and 1-2 reverses.

2. Synchro-Shift: Basically the same as the manual shift except it has synchronizers and can be shifted on the go. The clutch should always be used for starts, stops as well as shifting. Usually has 6-8 forward gears and 1-2 reverses.

3. Shuttle-Shift or Synchro-Shuttle: This is a standard transmission that may have as many gears in reverse as forward. There is lever on the left of the steering that performs the forward to reverse gear change. Most Shuttle Shifts have some synchronized gears or they may be fully synchronized. The clutch must be used to start, stop and change directions. Usually has 9, 12 or 16 gears in each direction. May have a gear as low as ¼ MPH on the 16 speed models.

4. Power-Shuttle: With this Standard transmission, you can change forward to reverse directions and also start and stop without using the clutch. Most if not all Power Shuttle transmissions have fully synchronized gears. Usually has 9, 12 or 16 gears in each direction. May have a gear as low as ¼ MPH on the 16 speed models. (JD calls this a Power Reverser)

5. Power-Shift or DynaQPS: This standard transmission has all of the benefits of the power shuttle as well as being able to shift between gears without the clutch. It can be started, stopped, changed from forward to reverse and the gears shifted without the clutch. Usually has 9, 12 or 16 gears in each direction. May have a gear as low as ¼ MPH on the 16 speed models. (Massey Ferguson’s DynaQPS is a powershift and Kubota’s GST is essentially a powershift.)

 

[Z-Michigan]

Thanks for all of the advice so far. I was wondering if there is a big difference in fuel usage ($$) between a larger 3 cylinder and smaller 4 cylinder diesel tractors. Seems I am near the crossover mark since I am probably looking in the 40 hp range.

For the bold out there, I need you to tell me what you would do if you were in my situation. I don't care if you are brand biased, just tell me if you had 4-acres to finish mow and 10-acres to brush hog and 16-acres to piddle on and keep down the underbrush. Based on your trial and error and experience if you were starting from scratch what would you buy? What tractor, what mower (belly, pull behind), what FEL and what tiller. I am a big boy, let her rip.

3 vs. 4 cyl will have little direct effect on fuel usage. In theory a 3 cyl will be a bit more efficient for a given hp level, but lots of factors can complicate this. At any given power level fuel usage will be similar across all tractors. Generally more displacement at a power level will be more efficient, but not always. Turbos may help, hurt, or make no difference. I wouldn't focus on the number of cylinders.

I have 20 acres, of which I'm finish mowing 1.5 (with a riding mower), using 4.5 currently for hay and planning to put another 4-5 in hay, and using about 3 as pasture. I have a monster - JD 5105 utility, super durable, incredible traction, and awfully heavy with its filled rears (needed to balance out the FEL capacity). With 47 PTO hp it runs a 6' rotary cutter like it's not even there - seriously I can cut brush at 10mph, which would be great except I'm bouncing around so much I'll break things if I actually keep doing it, so in practice I run at 3-5mph which I could have done with a 30-35hp tractor. Makes some tasks go fast, makes other tasks clumsy. I anticipate that in 1-3 years I will have an additional smaller tractor, something like a JD 2305 or even a large garden tractor, for many of the tasks that are in between my current choices (and also, the riding mower is cheap and will wear out before too long).

For your tasks I would get a mid-frame CUT, I would get R4 tires and would NOT load them with fluid (use a ballast box for FEL work and have a lighter tractor the rest of the time), and I would get HST transmission (or maybe GST if you end up buying Kubota). I would plan on a 5' brushhog and 6' finish mower (3ph pull behind). Some tractors in this range would be the JD 3520 and 3720, the Kubota L3240-3940, Kubota L3400 with HST, maaaaybe a Kubota B3030 if I wanted a cab at a reasonable price (it's otherwise smaller than I suggest), a New Holland TC29DA, and some comparable Kioti model (I think they just introduced a DK35 with HST; not sure, I could be wrong). I'm not separately listing Case IH because their CUTs are identical to NH except for paint color and no availability of supersteer, but those would be as good as NH.

Among the brands I just mentioned I think all are high quality and I would be OK with any of them. I believe Deere stuff is extremely well made, but I think Kubota, NH and Kioti all make really good stuff in that size class also. I would decide among the brands and models based on ergonomics for YOU and how well the local dealer treats you. (Price matters, but after the sale service will matter a lot more than having saved $500 - these tractors should go 20-30+ years with regular maintenance.)

For the front end loader I would buy the tractor maker's matched FEL. I might compare a Woods FEL, but I would probably buy the OEM model. I wouldn't look at any aftermarket besides Woods. Get a quick attach bucket system if at all possible - you will want it. Skid steer attach is by far the most versatile but seems to have some "attachment" issues in some brands (cough cough Kubota cough). The Deere system limits your options but is both simpler and more foolproof in attachment. It also comes as a basic feature with Deere loaders.

For mowers I would most likely buy Woods, second choice would be Landpride. Woods seems to be the best that's readily available. Since you're in SE Texas you may have access to Modern brand, which makes galvanized stuff - a REALLY nice idea for a brushhog that WILL get beaten up and will be rusting after just a few uses otherwise. I haven't seen Modern brand in person (I called them one time and they told me my nearest dealer was in Missouri - wee bit of a drive from Michigan) so I don't know the quality, but I'd check it out before buying. I don't know if they make finish mowers; if not, again Woods or Landpride for finish mower.

Tiller - same two brands for top quality. However, King Kutter tillers seem to get very good reviews (despite generally poor views of KK quality) and I would check those out as well.

In case I seem too gung-ho on Woods, let me say I don't currently own their stuff, but I wish I did. I've paid the same or nearly as much for other brands that should be top notch (Frontier rear blade made by some Mexican company, John Deere itself for an LX6 cutter, and Landpride for a scarifier) and all have had some issues. Woods looks like the best made and I anticipate my future purchase of top quality stuff for frequent use will be only Woods. I may still buy other brands when I plan only occasional use and can accept middling quality.

 

[95_tlc]

This is good stuff. I live in Beaumont, and will be buying land in Sour Lake. Modern is definitely a brand that I have access to.

The reason that I mentioned my young children is that I read that the precision of the HST was safer with people near the tractor......Thoughts??

 

[Z-Michigan]

The reason that I mentioned my young children is that I read that the precision of the HST was safer with people near the tractor......Thoughts??

1) Keep small children away from the tractor, except when it's shut off.

2) I do think HST would be a lot safer dealing with unexpected things. With HST (and not using cruise control), you let off the pedal and you stop right away. Don't even need to push the brake pedal. With gear tractors you normally will use the hand throttle, meaning to slow or stop you must push in the clutch and the brakes, and will probably take more time and distance to stop than with HST. Gear puts power into the ground more efficiently, but you haven't listed any serious ground engaging work. For all that mowing and for FEL work, HST is a lot more convenient, as well as potentially safer. I definitely support your lean toward HST.

 

[95_tlc]

so far I have grown partial to the MF 1533 or 1540 and the NH TC40DA. I also looked at a Kubota 3430 with a cab. Cab would be comfortable, but probably work very well tinkering around in the woods. Looking for foldable ROPS.

today I traveled to abilene for business and will probably look at a few tractors before I go to the airport