Case IH 385 bought used, repairs needed

[Pete S]

Hello,

Just bought a used (1900 hr) 1989 385 MFWD w/ 2200 IH loader.

It's been used, and left out, in southern OH weather, but overall appears to be OK. It's a long story, but have been looking for about 3 years. I'm in WI, and this was an internet purchase from SE OH. Be kind with your comment please,............but I still think I did OK.

Anyway, as I'm owning this thing for about 4 days now, I've been in my own way, working to correct things that need attention. Here's the list:

1.) The clutch peddle had about 6 " of free play. SO i took out my operator's manual and adjusted it to closer to what it should be. The clutch would bite just a bit off the bottom, but had at least 2-3" of free play. I drove it around the yard and put it up. TODAY, I changed engine oil, and when I took it for a "drive" the darn clutch peddle would "hang up" right where the free play started, and wasn't smelling just right. I took the adjustment out to almost the 5" range of play. What's going on as there doesn't seem to be any way to take a peek iside. After adjusting it, it seemed to be "better" but still wants to hang up right after the clutch engages. I don't want to need a new clutch.

2.) I'm thinking that I "may" have a "worn" radiator cap. It "piddles" out a bit when things warm up. It seems to have good spring tension, but had a chunk or inner tube as a gasket glued to the bottom. Could the rubber on this be too hard after 20 years, or the spring getting weak? (I took off the rubber that was glued on, and cleaned the mating surface) It "holds OK, but still drips a bit when she's good and warm. 35-45 bones for a new one............I'm in the wrong business. Thoughts?

3.) The Three Point hyd. line that comes from the bottom of the tranny then comes to a tee, then across and below the seat is leaking. The leak is at where the "Tee" is welded, and weeps a bit. I want to fix this and am considereing a brazing attempt first from the mechanic. BUT if I take this off does my Hy-Tran totally empty out?

Don't get me wrong, this thing runs smooth and doesn't smoke, but I'm thinking it has some lack of repair/maintenance issues. It starts with just a bump of the key, and idles and runs smooth.

Any tips and advice would be great.

Thanks!
Pete from Plymouth, WI

 

[geneP]

I think you will appreciate that tractor when you get the bugs worked out. They are heavy for a 35 PTO HP tractor and weight equals pulling power. I've had my 4X2 model for about 4 years and love it.

The clutch is a constant running throwout bearing design that troubles me. I changed mine so the pedal/spring pressure wasn't on the bearing all the time, but that's another story.

Being the design is like it is, you might have throwout bearing issues causing the quirky feeling clutch pedal. I would think the distance from top of the housing to the bottom of the pedal (distance "C" in your manual) would be the important adjustment for proper release/engagement. It sounds like you might be engaging the clutch (the point that it wants to start moving the tractor) too low.

If I'm not mistaken there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the clutch housing. It's raining here now so I won't go look at mine to verify.

It is normal for a radiator to loose a little of its coolant until the level stabilizes. That's why there are coolant recovery tanks on newer vehicles. Maybe the cap is bad and someone tried to compensate with the inner tube trick. A radiator cap shouldn't be $40. Take it to a parts store and match up the size and pressure.

I'm, sorry I can't help you with the hydraulic issue.

 

[Pete S]

Sorry for the slow reply to your response,...and thanks!

I re-looked and I see what you're refering to. The difference on my MFWD model is that the drive shaft covers it a bit and I didn't notice it. I'll take it all off and give a look.

I think I will give the aftermarket cap a try. I'm going to repaint to hood as its faded a bit and that will address the wear marks on the hood from the large plastic cover.

I'll keep you posted on how things progress here. It's like driving in a Cadilac compared to my old WD,.............which I just $old tonight!

Snow Blower here we come!

Pete

 

[geneP]

I think the throw out bearing has a teflon face on it where the clutch fingers contact it. I had several comments that the bearing is prone to failure.

As an aside, are you aware that the speed transmission is synchronized? It's really nice to be able to shift on the fly.

 

[Pete S]

Re: sycro tranny,..............yes I am, but haven't had time yet to run through the gears!

Tomorrow maybe I'll take'er out on the road, and go for a tranny warm-up!

If the throw out bearing poops out,............it's time to split the tractor right? for the fix?

If the thing gets split for a bearing,.............I know the clutch is proably $, but would consider that as needed because it's apart.

Pete

 

[art]

If the tractor was sitting for an extended time with no use the clutch shaft might have some rust on it causing the variation of your clutch linkage.

 

[Pete S]

Re-checked the clutch peddle adjustment,.............and just fine tuned it. I figured out what I was "smelling" earilier. Things look to be OK.

Now to fix the hdy leaks so she stays nice and dry and CLEAN!

Thanks for the resposes!
Pete