clutch help

[Kitz]

hello i have a international compact tractor 244 i put a new clutch in it today and the pedal goes to the floor and dont even start to engage clutch i replaced it because the old one did same thing but all old parts were satisfactory also are the tangs on the pressure plate pulled in after you assemble can anybody help

 

[wrenchturner]

The "tangs" do pull in as the pressure plate is tightened onto the flywheel. As the clutch material wears, the free play in the pedal goes away and the tangs move outward until the release bearing is pressing the tangs. As strange as it sounds, as the clutch wears the clearance in the linkeage decreases. If you do not adjust your clutch as the disc wears, your clutch will start slipping.

As far as the clutch not releasing after replacing the clutch, I do not know. However, I suspect the clutch fork has slipped on the shaft due to a broken roll pin. Since I have not worked on this tractor model, I do not know how the fork is held onto the shaft.

 

[Kernopelli]

I have replaced the clutch on a very similar model so maybe I can help. First, is there any resistence to the pedal? Have you tried adjusting the pedal linkage? Did you replace the pressure plate as well or just a new clutch disc?

 

[Kitz]

i replaced pp disc and throwout bearing the bearing that was in it was oversize from the part i bought but mine is for a 244 i split it again and got a better view of fork i looks worn i had no resistance except the last inch was enough to engage not sure but i think the fork should be more rounded than flat like it is the hub looks good could it be the fork that would make that much difference thanks

 

[Kernopelli]

The fork ends should be rounded, those round ends sit in grooves on the flat back sides of the hub and are designed to "rotate" smoothly as the fork pushes the hub forward when the pedal is pushed. If the fork is worn down, I could imagine that it would not allow the hub to move far enough to disengage the clutch. Might try finding a new fork. Case IH may still have these but I bet that's a long shot. Mitsubishi made these tractors for CIH so one of the grey market parts dealers may be able to help you, there are several Misubishi models that used a lot of similar parts to the 244/245, 254/255 tractors. (I would also venture a guess that the 254/255's used the same fork/part number as the 244). Tractor salvage yards like West KY Tractor Parts might be able to help West Kentucky Tractor Parts - Kevil, Kentucky or you could try building the fork back up with a weld bead and grinding it back down to the correct round profile.

ON EDIT: The parts number for the fork is 1273256C1 part #7 on schematic, it is the same for the 244,245, 254 and 255 models if this might help find one. CIH parts look up is https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/webparts/main.php then type in model number (244)...great site.

 

[Kitz]

thanks darryl i went to messicks great site ordered one its gold at 93.00 but im sure thats the problem i dont think the disc moves that much when i get the new one i think ill weld it up for a spare thanks for the help and have a good one

 

[Kernopelli]

Rick, I'm curious if you know for sure that the fork is actually still available? Not trying to be a buzz kill here but just surprised this part is still around the CIH warehouse. I remember searching for a hydraulic part for a 254 and was able to find it on Messicks site (I agree great site-great dealer) but when I called to actually order it I found out it was no longer available from CIH. This is not a slam against Messicks at all, it's just that these are older tractors and not all the unusual parts are available from CIH any more. I have noticed that some of the parts don't show a price on Messicks website and I suspect those are ones that they know aren't available but I don't know for sure if that is why. I hate to see that any part is no longer available for these tractors and certainly hope they have the fork ...I'm quite a fan of these machines! On another note, this fork looks like it might be pretty easily made if a guy had to. There's been several occasions where I have done this in the past with my Mitsubishi, rather than searching the junk yards or trying to order parts from Japan. When I split my Mitsubishi and replaced the clutch last spring, the T.O. bearing hub was wallowed out and I needed a new one (same as the 244-255 tractors hub) and I was able to make a new one on my lathe and mill....turned out perfect. Anyway, let us know how everything turns out.

 

[Kitz]

well i finally got my clutch fork from messicks. changed part number raised price go figure. so now i have a new clutch t.o pp fork and bushing.i also put in a oversize t.o. bearing. i spent about 350 dollars on clutch replacement and not much difference. don't seem like much adjustment and the clutch don't release very smooth. when i installed clutch disc and pp i put the disc with the hub sticking out towards pp and the fingers on the pp went completely flat is that right any ideas thanks

 

[Kernopelli]

well i finally got my clutch fork from messicks. changed part number raised price go figure. so now i have a new clutch t.o pp fork and bushing.i also put in a oversize t.o. bearing. i spent about 350 dollars on clutch replacement and not much difference. don't seem like much adjustment and the clutch don't release very smooth. when i installed clutch disc and pp i put the disc with the hub sticking out towards pp and the fingers on the pp went completely flat is that right any ideas thanks

Glad Messicks was able to get the fork. I have to admit I was surprised that it was still available...good to hear! Sounds like you've got everything installed correctly...the "hub" of the clutch disc should point towards the pressure plate. Not sure what you mean by fingers went completely flat? Can you explain that part a little more... as best as I recall, the fingers should stick outward at a slight angle. You can call Jeff McKibban at 515-332-1408 tractorclutchesrus.com to see if he can confirm how the fingers should be. I assume by adjustment you mean pedal linkages? Do the pedals linkages move smoothly? Just trying to eliminate some reasons why it might feel like it's binding.

 

[Kitz]

what i meant to say is as i tighten down pp bolts the fingers went in to where there about parallel with disc. the pedal goes pretty smooth but it wont let me shift till the pedal gets to pto clutch position. distance of resistance in pedal is at least two inches. the clutch shaft arm goes all the way to the stop bolt. the t.o. bearing is larger also. it just seems like it takes alot to shift for having a new clutch and i should not need oversize t.o. seems to me that fingers on pp should be sticking out when installed. thanks for the help