Brakes on a 574 international tractor

[Stanley75]

The right brake on my 574 IH tractor doesn't work. Pedal moves but no stopping power. Left brake works ok. Any ideas on what may be wrong?

[DJ54]

Is there any resistance in the pedal, compared to the other side.., like feeling pressure?? I've attached an exploded view of the braking system on a 574. Note this is with SN 7365 and below. The only difference I could see with models after this SN is there is no orifice and screen ( Part #31 & #32 ) on the later models.

Could be the master cylinder (#5) is bad..? Or posibly something in the screen and orifice blocking the oil flow..??

[art]

You could have blown an o-ring internally to give you the worst but start by looking on top of the right axle for what looks like a brake bleeder.

Try it and see if the petal comes back!

[Stanley75]

Is there any resistance in the pedal, compared to the other side.., like feeling pressure?? I've attached an exploded view of the braking system on a 574. Note this is with SN 7365 and below. The only difference I could see with models after this SN is there is no orifice and screen ( Part #31 & #32 ) on the later models.

Could be the master cylinder (#5) is bad..? Or posibly something in the screen and orifice blocking the oil flow..??

There seems to be no resistance on the right pedal. The left pedal works ok. I doubt if the master is bad or neither side would work. I will try bleeding the brakes as suggested and see what that does. Tractor is a later version, 1977 year. Thanks for the response.

[DJ54]

Take note, there is a master cylinder for each side.

[Stanley75]

Take note, there is a master cylinder for each side.

Good catch. Thanks. I have a feeling that might be the problem.

[brian smith]

if your braiks are foulty fit a oil resiwire whitch hold lL; off oil this will sort the problum

[oleman]

Each brake pedal has its own master cylinder. There is also an equalizing valve between the masters so both brakes apply equally when the pedals are clipped together.
So problem could be right MC; equalizing valve; leaking lines or the rear wheel cyninder. AND alot of air trapped in the general hydraulic system.
Start with the fill lines in and beneath the battery box; after all these years the rubber is probably bad clogging the fill to the right MC. The cylinders get their fill from from a bleed off from the return line from the hydraulic cooler at almost no pressure so any restriction can keep the mc from getting fluid.
After getting fluid flow to the MC go through the bleeding process.
I have found that you can get rid of alot of air in the pressure line to the wheel cylinder by running the engine at 1000 rpm or so and cutting the front wheels back and forth with both bleeding cocks left open. This process also clears up steering lack of response issues.
Top off the hydraulic system prior to starting to bleed.
The master cylinders are expensive and I have located no repair kit!!

[deerseeker001]

i had the same problem,every couple of months i would bleed the brakes.i then went through my manual and found that you have to clamp the return line to the oil cooler and then bleed both sides and now works great.

[bignutz]

What is the proper IH 574 brake bleeding process? Tractor sat for 2 to 3 years - only run a few times. I purchased and had a few external hydraulic leaks. Replaced a few orings - leaks gone.

first the left brake quit. Then the right brake would sort of work... which turned in to pumping right brake while clutch engaged to get a little pressure - which really didn't stop you but rather held tractor from moving. Now neither brake works at all. Everything else hydraulic seems to work fine (loader, 3 pt, steering and remote).

Hoping this really could be a simple fix... or, is it split the axle housings and put new brake parts in?