Case 1270 transmission help needed

[wbb]

I am posting this for my son...

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I recently purchased a 1270 Case that used to belong to my grandfather. I was told the transmission began acting up 1 1/2 - 2 years ago and instead of trying to fix it the guy just parked it.

The transmission is the powershift transmission, four gear ranges with three powershift positions plus reverse.

Today I started it and noticed the following problems...

It will start, without the clutch, no matter what gear it is in. In neutral when you let off the clutch it drives (In what feels like about the speed of third gear). In any other gear it tries to go but dies like it is in too high of a gear.

When the motor is not running it will free wheel like it should, but as I said once the motor starts it drives.

I drove it around (in the neutral position) and all three power shift ranges plus reverse work as they should.

I removed all the linkage to the transmission and moved the levers going into the actual transmission with the same results.

I did notice a fluid leak above the transmission when the tractor is running.

I have no way to check the hydraulic pressures and am hoping someone has enough experience to have seen a similar problem before.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank You
Jon

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And one update...
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I removed the side plate on the transmission and found the following...

The shift forks looked ok and not worn. There are four large gears, two on the back side and two on the front. There is a small gear in the middle that I assume is neutral? With both positioned in what I am calling neutral it will drive, where as in any other gear I tried it bogs down and dies. The only thing I noticed is that each gear will move independant of the gear in the middle except the one furthest the front of the tractor. Anytime you move the gear my hand the small middle gear moves with it whereas the other three you can move the big gear without the middle gear moving. Am I right that this may be a problem. Is this maybe stuck in gear then when it is put into another gear it is trying to use two seperate gears?

Thank You

Jon

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This is my Dad's tractor that was sold about 12 years ago when Dad quit farming. Jon (my son) finally tracked it down and bought it back.

Engine runs fine. Tractor overall is in good condition for its age.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brad

 

[KWentling]

I don't have a 1270 but I do have a 1070 and I have the service manuals for it. I have no idea if they are similar (or maybe even the same) transmission or not. Sounds to me that the powershift part of the transmission is OK and the problem is in the range transmission. My Dad ran 70 series tractors (my 1070 is one of them) and he warned me that if you are not precise when you shift the range transmission, that you can get stuck in two gears. I don't know how he got out of that position, but probably through the same access hole you are looking through. Looking at the book, I would say the left (or front) fork is 1st and 3rd and I would expect that one is the problem. There are actually 8 gears on two shafts. 4 larger and 4 smaller. 4 gears are stationary on one shaft and 4 slide (in pairs) on the other. When in neutral, none should be engaged. There should be a center position on both sliding sets that is the neutral position. I can't tell which (probably both) forks work the neutral start switch, but I imagine when you get the forks working properly the switch will probably work too. I believe Messicks may have parts diagrams available online that may be of help to you. Hope this helps.

Kim

 

[TraderMark]

Brad and Jon,

The 1270 transmission differs a great deal from the smaller 70 series tractors like the 1070.

On the 1270, none of the gears actually slide on their respective shafts.
I'm going to attach a diagram to help you understand some of the things I'll be referring to.

Item #10 in the diagram is the top shaft. It comes from the powershift transmission and supplies power to the range transmission. 1st driver gear is an integral part of this shaft. Item #7 is 2nd and 3rd driver gear cluster. Item 6 is 4th driver gear. All these gears are splined to the shaft (item 10) and are held in place by snap rings to keep them from moving laterally on the shaft.

Item 24 is the range transmission output shaft. Gears 39 37 35 and 27 are all driven gears and fit on this shaft. They are free to spin on the shaft when the range transmission is in neutral.
Items 38 and 33 are the shift hubs. These hubs are splined to shaft 24. Item 44 (shown in two places, one for each shift hub) fit around the shift hubs and slide back and forth to engage the gears next to them. For example, the hub/collar combo of 38 & 44 when slid to the rear, lock gear 39 to shaft 24 so that power is supplied to the ring gear. When that same hub/collar combo is slid forward, it disengages from gear 39 and engages gear 37 to lock it to shaft 24 and provide second gear speed to shaft 24.

When one collar is engaged in a gear, the other collar MUST be in the neutral position between its gears or you will be in two gears at the same time, giving you the condition you mentioned.

That's what I would check first. Make certain that both collars are in the neutral position between their respective gears and see if you still have the problem.

If the problem persists with both collars in the neutral position, one of the gears (39, 37, 35 or 27) on the bottom shaft may have seized to the shaft. If there is a seized gear on the bottom shaft, you should have ONE slot on the range selector that allows you to move the tractor. For example, if gear 37 has seized to the shaft and the range selector lever is in 2nd gear, you should be able to move the tractor normaly since the correct gear is engaged.

Let me know if I can be of any more help.

Mark

 

[wbb]

Thank you very much for the parts view.

Here is the latest update form my son....

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No gear will free spin in any position. There is a little play between gears 37/39 and shift hub 38, a little play between gear 35 and shift hub 33 but

gear 27 moves in unison with shift hub 33 as if they are attached even though part 44 is sitting centers on shift hub 33. I assume im correct neutral is

when parts 44 are centered, one on shift hub 38 and the other on 33.

Also we were able to put collar 44 on gear 39/37 and collar 44 on gear 35. We could not slide it onto gear 27. Maybe could have forced it but didn't want to try it without talking to someone who knew what they were doing.

I think gear 27 is 4th gear.
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Thanks again,

 

[TraderMark]

Brad,

I misled you a little bit. I apologize.

When I stated that the 4 gears on shaft 24 should spin freely, I didn't mean they should spin if you just reached in with your hand, or used a pry bar to turn them.

What I meant was, in neutral, when both shift collars are centered over their respective hubs, the gears on shaft 24 would turn freely if the tractor was pushed or pulled to make it move. In other words, the four gears on shaft 24 would not be locked to the shaft.

A little play between the gears and the shift hubs is normal. What's not normal is for gear 27 to move more than a few thousandths of an inch. It's also not normal for shift hub 33 to slide on shaft 24 between gears 34 and 27.

How far will the hub that's stuck to gear 27 move?

I'm thinking that maybe the nut has come off the pinion shaft. (shaft 24)

I'll do some more thinking....

Mark

 

[german]

hello, I need the diagram of the control valve box tractor forward case 2290, to see the arrangement and order of the valves and springs