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  1. #11
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    1,433
    Location
    North Central Arkansas
    Tractor
    John Deere 4520,

    Default Re: Fixing radiator

    Quote Originally Posted by Birch Hill Farm View Post
    I just hate pay someone to do a job that I could probably do my self.... Good thought on the silver solder an 1800deg melting point might be too much for the old radiator.
    A radiator repair shop can clean and resolder the top on then pressure test to make sure that radiator doesan't leak looks like the engine was over hot and pressure forced the seperation if so needs cleaning anyways. A small repair charge to protect and engine worth the money.
    ken

  2. #12
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    564
    Location
    South Carolina

    Default Re: Fixing radiator

    I had my IH 424 radiator fixed at a radiator shop for about $100 this summer. I've done a couple small radiator fixes before like a loose hose connector, but the 424/444 radiator has 3 or 4 rows of tubes that are stagger and they would be a nightmare to fix if you got core to hot trying to fix the seam. Radiator repair require quick heat to only heat the area being worked on or the heat spreads and unsolders other joints.
    IHC 424 Diesel
    Ford 917 Flail Mower

  3. #13
    Bronze Member Birch Hill Farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    89
    Location
    Kentucky
    Tractor
    International 444

    Default Re: Fixing radiator

    Update on the radiator, There ended being about 5 leaks, every time I would get one fix and pressure test there would be a new leak some where else. The core is also leaking in several spots which is only now showing up after fixing the big leaks, the big leaks made it impossible to find the small ones. I called a radiator shop recommended by a tractor parts store and they said it will cost over $450 to re-core and fix my old radiator. They do not make a new one for the 444 so I decided to order a new radiator for the model 140 that is the same size and has the inlets and outlets in the same place. I will probably have to fab up the mounting brackets to make it fit but, I would rather do that then take a chance spending the same amount of money on repairing and old radiator.

  4. #14
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,912
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Fixing radiator

    You would likely be better off using your brass tank top and bottom and having the radiator shop put in a new core. The new radiator is likely plastic top and bottom just like all the cars and trucks now. Check the construction on the "new" radiator before plunging in and getting a crappy new radiator when for the same money or less you can get a good solid brass one. It will be just like new when finished because all the use is the top and bottom of your radiator. I had this done when my JD 332 garden tractor radiator started leaking. It was about $200 less than a new one from JD and I have a solid metal one not plastic.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  5. #15
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    13
    Tractor
    International 284

    Default Re: Fixing radiator

    If its to the point of leaking, you can just about bet that its due for a good cleaning too. Best off just taking it to a good rad shop and having it rodded or boiled out and then have them re seal it then fully pressure tested, then you wont have to worry about the thing coming apart on you for a good long time
    International 284 Diesel

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