bought a 580c Case

[utahjd1]

I just bought a 1979 580c Case from the Town for CHEAP money. It lived at the transfer station (compacting dumpsters and scooping up crappers) for most of it's life so it hasn't been used and abused to much. It does have some issues.... The power steering pump, hydraulics and shuttle leaks also the front bucket cutting edge is wrecked. But the engine and shuttle are strong it's got a little over 5,000 hours. The front bucket and ho can lift the tractor off the ground. The last time I drove a backhoe I was 13 and that was a long time ago Soooooo I'm a little foggy on the controls I believe it's a power shuttle model but not sure it's only got one gear shift....now for a stupid question what is the single middle pedal I know the two together are brakes and the throttle pedal is a no brainer. What issues should I watch for with the 580c? I know the brakes can stick/fail on them. Thanks for any help

 

[DJ54]

The single pedal is what we always referred to as the master brake. The pedal is connected to both brake shafts. If both are adjusted properly, when you press on the middle pedal, it should stop both wheels at the same time. Pretty handy when using the loader to load trucks etc. Much easier than trying to keep even pressure on two pedals when stopping.

Probably much like my 480C, except mine does not have the middle pedal (wish it did). I'm guessing it has the 4 speed manual transmission, then the torque converter type shuttle, for forward and reverse. Just be sure to come to a complete stop before changing directions. It makes it a lot easier on things internally.

If you have a good local hydraulic shop, they can more than likely take care of your hydraulic, and PS pump leaks. Case Consrtruction dealers still have cylinder kits if you care to tackle them yourself. A good local shop should carry the seal kits though. I had a loader tilt cylinder rebuilt a couple years ago. Kit and labor was around $70.00.

Brakes will probably be the issue you will deal with the most. Usually either the master cylinders go bad, or wheel cylinders. If that model still uses brake fluid, it can be very corrosive if you have a system leak somewhere. On my 480, I had to replace 1 master cylinder, and both wheel cylinders. Leaks had corroded parts in the brake drum assy. Bands were frozen to the pins, springs eaten up, and adjusters pretty scaley. Brake lines were shot too. I bought a kit to make my own out of the alloy type line. The cost of the ones from Case justified buying this kit, as lines from them were like $75 each, and just plain steel lines. There is also a short metal/rubber line, where it connects to the wheel cylinder. You can get the same line through a Case/IH Ag. dealer for 10% less. And that price was at the time $38. I lucked out, and found one on ebay for around $15.

This link should help you a lot. Products & Services | Case Construction In the menu, click on parts, then select part catalog. Enter your model number, and it will provide an exploded view of your entire machine. You can also select a dealer of choice, and they will have the price of a part listed. You can comparison shop, by copying the part number, and pasting to a search engine such as Google. The also have exploded views of the hoe, and loader, and part numbers on the same page.

I would suggest you find an OEM service manual for it. They pop up on ebay pretty frequently. You can do some shopping there too. They are great manuals, and are VERY detailed..!! Expect to pay $100-$150 for a good one. There may be a few on CD for al ot less money, but never had any experience with the qual;ity of them.

The most important thing if needing a part, is the part number. Especially with the cylinders, if you need kits. There were several different ones, used onthe same model.

Here is alink to a place where I have gotten more then several parts for mine. Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries They were hands down less expensive on the brake parts, including master and wheel cylinders. They had all of the springs, pins, studs, etc. needed to rebuild mine. I got a water pump from them this summer, and was like $8 less then other online dealers. I'm fortunate that they are within 150 miles. If I order before 10:00 a.m., I have it the next day. If you deal with them, you will more then likely be talking with Bill Pingley. a heck of a nice guy, and knows his stuff.

Others may know more about the shuttle leak. I have not had problems with mine. (knock on wood)...

One other thing you may get into on the electrical... There are many circuit breakers in the system. By doing some crossing part numbers, I found the Buss brand sold at most auto parts stores, are a direct replacement. And about 1/4 what you would pay through a Case dealer.

Hope this helps..!!

 

[utahjd1]

I drove the 580c home a few days ago and used it a few times to back drag snow. It has a lot of power seems to run a little ritch. The front seal on the gear box leaks and looks like lines going into a gearboxcooler are leaking but it looks like a easy fix. I'll just keep an extra eye on all the fluids during the winter and buy some parts this spring and start tearing it apart. The front bucket is dinked the cutting edge is gone. Thats a somewhat easy fix BUT the bucket is warped I'm going to need to use it a lot in the spring to move about 35+ yards of fill and loam. What would be a some what easy way to get the bucket flat again. Should I just heat it up and try to reshape it with a BFH?
Thanks
Adam

 

[DJ54]

I've straightened a lot of stuff with a 5-10 hydraulic bottle jack. Just takes some good rigging, blocking, and depending on the warp, suitable material for a push block. Something like Jr. I-beam etc., to spread out the push some, so as not to push in one direct spot, and not bring the rest. It'd be an idea to weld a collar on the push block for the top of the jack to set in, out of pipe, or heavy tubing to keep it from kicking off of it.

You'll just have to experiment, and see how far to take it. Usually have to go by the opposite direction of the warp some, and let it spring back.

 

[utahjd1]

Another question how do I tell if I have a manifold heater? Where would the swtich be in the cab to activate it???

 

[murphy1244]

:welcome:

 

[DJ54]

Don't quote me, but don't believe they did have a manifold heater available. However, they did have what was known as a Cold Start System. I've attached an exploded view of that assembly below. It is a manuallly operated ether injection mechanism.

The part that holds the ether canister is located on the left side, just ahead of the uprights for the loader arms. It's tucked in under the hood, at the back of the block. There is basically a choke cable that runs inside the cab, and mounted on the left side of the dash to operate it. There is a small plastic tube that carries the ether across, behind the block, and into the intake manifold on the right side. Compression type fittings to connect it.

The one on my 480 was all galded up, so I just plugged the inlet port on the intake. I give it a little sniff, if it needs it to start.

They do make a block heater for them. I really do need to get one for mine, just haven't yet. The part number for the heater is A44815. The cord for it is separate. Part number for the cord is A44814. If you Google these parts numbers, I'm sure you'll get several hits, if you're interested in one.

 

[utahjd1]

What types of fluids does the tractor take? Is there a special type of tranni fluid I should be running in the shuttle? I'm guessing gear oul in the gear boc and diff.

 

[DJ54]

Hy-Tran in everything except the rear & diff. Mine called for 90wt. It should have a dipstick on the manual trans./diff., so you should be able to tell. Last I priced at a Case dealer 2 years ago, it was $80.00 for a 5 gallon pail. Personally, I use the Tractor Supply generic. Been using it in my other tractors for 20+ years with no problem. Usually $39.99 per 5 gallon pail. Wal-Mart carries a generic version too, but my local store doesn't carry the 5 gallon pails.

If you are going to do a complete filter change, you may want to try pricing through here. That is, if you like Wix Filters. Wix Filters & NapaGold Filters: FleetFilter Secure Online Store

I crossed my filters part numbers through NAPA online, then searched for the filters at Fleet Filter. If they are not ledgible, go to the Case Construction site with the link I posted above, and get your filter part numbers. On the NAPA site, once you find your filter(s), you can select a local store, and it should give you the price. Write the prices down, then go to Fleet Filter, and compare. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Yes, there will be shipping tacked on, but there is not that much difference if you order a few, or the whole system change. I saved enough on mine, compared to the local store, to get an extra oil, and air filter, for less money, including shipping.

 

[hwstem]

Good buy! I grew up around one, there nice machines, would love to own one someday. Enjoy!