The single pedal is what we always referred to as the master brake. The pedal is connected to both brake shafts. If both are adjusted properly, when you press on the middle pedal, it should stop both wheels at the same time. Pretty handy when using the loader to load trucks etc. Much easier than trying to keep even pressure on two pedals when stopping.
Probably much like my 480C, except mine does not have the middle pedal (wish it did). I'm guessing it has the 4 speed manual transmission, then the torque converter type shuttle, for forward and reverse. Just be sure to come to a complete stop before changing directions. It makes it a lot easier on things internally.
If you have a good local hydraulic shop, they can more than likely take care of your hydraulic, and PS pump leaks. Case Consrtruction dealers still have cylinder kits if you care to tackle them yourself. A good local shop should carry the seal kits though. I had a loader tilt cylinder rebuilt a couple years ago. Kit and labor was around $70.00.
Brakes will probably be the issue you will deal with the most. Usually either the master cylinders go bad, or wheel cylinders. If that model still uses brake fluid, it can be very corrosive if you have a system leak somewhere. On my 480, I had to replace 1 master cylinder, and both wheel cylinders. Leaks had corroded parts in the brake drum assy. Bands were frozen to the pins, springs eaten up, and adjusters pretty scaley. Brake lines were shot too. I bought a kit to make my own out of the alloy type line. The cost of the ones from Case justified buying this kit, as lines from them were like $75 each, and just plain steel lines. There is also a short metal/rubber line, where it connects to the wheel cylinder. You can get the same line through a Case/IH Ag. dealer for 10% less. And that price was at the time $38. I lucked out, and found one on ebay for around $15.
This link should help you a lot.
Products & Services | Case Construction In the menu, click on parts, then select part catalog. Enter your model number, and it will provide an exploded view of your entire machine. You can also select a dealer of choice, and they will have the price of a part listed. You can comparison shop, by copying the part number, and pasting to a search engine such as Google. The also have exploded views of the hoe, and loader, and part numbers on the same page.
I would suggest you find an OEM service manual for it. They pop up on ebay pretty frequently. You can do some shopping there too. They are great manuals, and are VERY detailed..!! Expect to pay $100-$150 for a good one. There may be a few on CD for al ot less money, but never had any experience with the qual;ity of them.
The most important thing if needing a part, is the part number. Especially with the cylinders, if you need kits. There were several different ones, used onthe same model.
Here is alink to a place where I have gotten more then several parts for mine.
Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries They were hands down less expensive on the brake parts, including master and wheel cylinders. They had all of the springs, pins, studs, etc. needed to rebuild mine. I got a water pump from them this summer, and was like $8 less then other online dealers. I'm fortunate that they are within 150 miles. If I order before 10:00 a.m., I have it the next day. If you deal with them, you will more then likely be talking with Bill Pingley. a heck of a nice guy, and knows his stuff.
Others may know more about the shuttle leak. I have not had problems with mine. (knock on wood)...
One other thing you may get into on the electrical... There are many circuit breakers in the system. By doing some crossing part numbers, I found the Buss brand sold at most auto parts stores, are a direct replacement. And about 1/4 what you would pay through a Case dealer.
Hope this helps..!!