Case DX33 electrical problem

[Harleyman]

2006 DX33 had blown 40 amp fuse, replaced. One week later after one hour of running, attempted to start and the gauges went out and the no power to starter. All fuses checked OK. Could this be a short in the ignition?

 

[Xfaxman]

2006 DX33 had blown 40 amp fuse, replaced. One week later after one hour of running, attempted to start and the gauges went out and the no power to starter. All fuses checked OK. Could this be a short in the ignition?

:welcome: to TractorByNet!

A short will blow a fuse or melt the insulation on the wire.

How did you check the fuses? Can't always tell by looking, have to use a meter.

What is the voltage on the battery terminals?

Remove the cables from the battery and clean both ends of the cable. Disconnect negative first and reconnect last, after the positive is reconnected.

If you don't know how to troubleshoot, watch this video: Starter Voltage Drop - YouTube

Good luck and let us know what you find. :thumbsup:

 

[Halftrack]

I was surprised to see the replacement fuse was a 40 amp, but after checking Messicks electrical diagrams for your '06 and the TC 33DA, 40 amp is the correct size. My TC 33 ('03) only requires a 30 amp fuse. I had a series of faults one day of blowing that fuse and after a lot of head scratching and going over what I had changed, found the problem. Believe it or not, the problem was in the start/run key switch and I had turned the key over (180 degrees). In that position, it blew the fuse almost every start. The key is now marked with a top and bottom. That may have been your original problem, but with the 40 amp fuse, I would look for a burned wire possibly around the start/run switch. My nose usually leads me to those kinds of problems (burnt wires), but you may have a normal sized nose, I don't. I refer to the start/run switch, to lessen the confusion when referring to an ignition switch on a diesel tractor. Good Luck and keep us informed.

 

[Harleyman]

Thank you very much. It came with a 30 amp fuse when I bought it in 2006. Last month the 30 amp blew and the dash gauges stopped working. Changed to the 40 amp when I read the manual. This time the 40 amp fuse is good and when I turned the key the I heard a sound like a wire go and the dash gauges went off. I checked the wires to the ignition switch and can't see anything wrong. I am going to take out the ignition switch and test it. I live in Kissimmee (Orlando) and can not find anyone who will work on a Case small tractor. the closest dealer is over a 100 miles away.

 

[Xfaxman]

Thank you very much. It came with a 30 amp fuse when I bought it in 2006. Last month the 30 amp blew and the dash gauges stopped working. Changed to the 40 amp when I read the manual. This time the 40 amp fuse is good and when I turned the key the I heard a sound like a wire go and the dash gauges went off. I checked the wires to the ignition switch and can't see anything wrong. I am going to take out the ignition switch and test it. I live in Kissimmee (Orlando) and can not find anyone who will work on a Case small tractor. the closest dealer is over a 100 miles away.

Tractors with diesel engines do not have an ignition switch.

How did you check the wires to the start switch?

You don't have to take the switch out to test it, in fact it is better to troubleshoot with it and the wires undisturbed.

Do you have a digital multimeter?

You should be able to find an independent repair shop that works on diesel tractors.

 

[Harleyman]

I did pull the switch and everything checked out okay. My wife came out and asked if I had checked the battery and I told her I did. Being my wife being more expert at this than me she said check it again and make sure it was clean. I cleaned up the battery, sanded the posts, hooked it and my wife started it. Don't you hate it when they are right.

thanks

 

[Xfaxman]

I did pull the switch and everything checked out okay. My wife came out and asked if I had checked the battery and I told her I did. Being my wife being more expert at this than me she said check it again and make sure it was clean. I cleaned up the battery, sanded the posts, hooked it and my wife started it. Don't you hate it when they are right.

thanks

Yep, been there, done that!

I guess you didn't read my first post:

:welcome: to TractorByNet!

A short will blow a fuse or melt the insulation on the wire.

How did you check the fuses? Can't always tell by looking, have to use a meter.

What is the voltage on the battery terminals?

Remove the cables from the battery and clean both ends of the cable. Disconnect negative first and reconnect last, after the positive is reconnected.

If you don't know how to troubleshoot, watch this video: Starter Voltage Drop - YouTube

Good luck and let us know what you find. :thumbsup:

The procedure in the video that I linked also would have found the bad connection right away.

Glad you got it fixed! :thumbsup:

 

[Harleyman]

Thanks,

I did but procrastinated. I am very glad that I joined this site. A lot of help

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanks,

I did but procrastinated. I am very glad that I joined this site. A lot of help

I always wanted to be a procrastinator, but I never got around to it!