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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    37
    Location
    PA
    Tractor
    JD 1025r

    Default Looking at a early '70s 580

    Hey guys,

    I just bought a couple acres of land I'll be buliding on and was thinking about buying something to help out with putting in the septic, electric, etc. I found an early 70s 580 ck; which I believe is a B, with loader and backhoe. Its the 188 diesel with the 4 speed shuttle. Looking at the pictures on-line it looks really clean and probably has fresh paint. The ad says the brakes need some work, a couple cylinders are leaking, and maybe a few other small leaks; The guy says it runs great overall. The tires look like they're getting a bit low on tread maybe and he said they are getting dry as well. Hoses were replaced as necessary and it has a new hydraulic pump.

    My questions are

    1. What are the problem areas I should watch out for on these? I was doing some searching around here and didn't see too much that alarmed me.
    2. Assuming the brakes have to be redone; roughly how much would the parts be?
    3. Are the cylinders easy to rebuild?
    4. Are parts readily available all around?

    He also has the manuals and service guides for it I believe. I'd try to do all the work I can myself.

    He's asking $4,500 for it; does this seem like a reasonable price for what I described above at this point? It sounded like he was going to try holding firm on the price. I'm hoping to check it out this weekend, so any insight provided would be really appreciated.

    Thanks everyone

  2. #2
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    2,174
    Location
    Carroll, Ohio
    Tractor
    Massey 180 Diesel

    Default Re: Looking at a early '70s 580

    Look for welded cracks on the boom & stick on the hoe, or possibly where it has been plated and welded. Cycle all functions, and watch for slop in the pins and bushings. In something that old, do expect to see some. Watch the pivot pins & bushings where the boom attaches to the swing tower. Also look for welds there. I have seen some that have broken, and been re-welded. Also check where the backhoe attaches. Should be 4 large bolts, and long nuts holding it on. Check to see if they are loose, threads beat, etc. Maybe have him set the stick on the ground, while boomed up, then have him put some down pressure on it, and watch the attaching points, and pivot points.

    More than likely, the seals are out on the bull pinion shaft, behind the brake discs. Pretty common on all older Case tractors with disc brakes. That would be part # 20 in this exploded view of the 580's brakes. Official Case Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Look Up. Parts for Case Equipment and Construction Equipment. Parts Store for Case Wheel Loaders, Case Excavators, Case Skid Steers, Case Original Parts.

    Not to hard to change out. You will need to lower the trans oil level to do this, as the brake housing bolts go clear through the side of the trans. housing, and oil will pour out. I crossed the part number through NAPA, and here is their price. (#22338) NAPA AUTO PARTS Here is a place I got the one's for my 310B ( same brake system). Same CR seal, but almost half the price: Search Takes about a week to get them when you order them.

    The brake discs will be oil soaked, but you can take a propane torch, and boil the oil out of them. I took mine outside and hung them on a steel rod, clamped to a shop press. Just circled the torch on the disc. The 90wt. soon started coming to the surface, and dripping off. Just keep doing it until they stop dripping oil & let them cool. Spray of with brake cleaner. I probably used 3 cans of brake cleaner on each side, cleaning discs & brake housings. I buffed mine a bit with an air die grinder, and a medium Roloc disc for removing gasket material. Fine sandpaper will do the same thing, if you don't have one.

    I took my cylinders to a good hydraulic shop we have in the area. Being the piston bolt/screw need to be torqued @ 425ft lbs., and the gland nut @ around 525 ft. lbs., I let them do the rest after I did the first one. With what tools I had, I was just guesstimating the torque. Seems they charged me right at $75.00 per cylinder, and had a, I believe 30 day warranty. Kits through Case were around $35.00. I'm sure you can find aftermarket one's for less.

    Parts seem to be plentiful. If you need brake parts, these guys are hard to beat: Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries They are aftermarket parts, but all brake parts I got for my 480C are pretty nice. You'll have to call them to order, so have part numbers in hand. They are located in NE Ohio. Being you are in PA, depending on what part, if you order before 10:00 a.m., you should have them the next day. I live SE of Columbus, and had my parts by the next day, usually by 2:00 p.m., unless UPS was extremely busy that day.

    The 188 diesels are good engines. Like anything else, depends on the maintenance it's had over the years. NAPA should have all of the filters, and you could even check O'Reilly's. They seem to carry a lot of stuff like that, although it needs to be ordered, but usually less.

    You didn't say if it was the manual trans. shuttle shift, or torque converter type, with the shuttle handle on the steering column. My 310 B had the manual type, and as long as you don't haunch on it shifting, and be completely stopped before changing directions, they work fine. The PO's of the 310 were pretty rough on the old girl, and had sheared the roll pin internally apparently several times.

    The older torque converter type did have some problems moving the machine when in cold weather. Just need to let them warm up. Others had problems when they warmed up, and seems most of the problem was the sump screen plugged. Definitely do check travel, back and forth, and see how it responds. Might want to pull the trans dip stick also and check for low, or milky trans oil. If the brake seals are leaking, you can see it dripping off the brake housings. Take a few rags along, and swipe underneath to check.

    The rest is just normal stuff to check for fluid level/condition, leaks here and there, and do look at the steering cylinders, as they do have a tendency to leak. You can get o-ring kits to repair them from Case. I'm thinking around 20 bucks. If it's started when the engine is cold, maybe check the radiator, looking for air bubbles, checking for a blown head gasket, or cracked head, and just general condition of the radiator.

    Don't have a clue on the price. Do a search for a comparable model, and go from there. I know it doesn't take long for things to add up. But doing the work yourself will save a LOT of money. I did everything on mine, except the rest of the hyd. cylinders, and having hoses made. $95.00 an hour shop rates, do give a guy a little incentive..!!

  3. #3
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    6,272
    Location
    Central wisconsin
    Tractor
    International 2500a with Loader

    Default Re: Looking at a early '70s 580

    Welcome from Wisconsin
    ::welcome :::RON
    never stop learning.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    37
    Location
    PA
    Tractor
    JD 1025r

    Default Re: Looking at a early '70s 580

    Thanks for the reply. I talked to a friend of mine who is an operator and got his take on the machine. I think I'm going to pass on it for right now; if it's still for sale in a little bit I may check it out.

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