1967 Case 580CK Loader / Backhoe How To Tow A Trailer

   / 1967 Case 580CK Loader / Backhoe How To Tow A Trailer #1  

Frankdozer

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
167
Location
Bridgton, Maine
Tractor
1967 Case 580CK Backhoe / Loader
I want to tow a trailer but don't want to drive backward nor do I want to push the trailer. I drilled a hole for a trailer ball to move a trailer around. This is OK for repositioning the trailer . But for long distance it's awkward. My land is 1 mile long end to end. I'd like to be able to just drive forward towing the trailer but the backhoe is on the back. Any ideas ?
 
   / 1967 Case 580CK Loader / Backhoe How To Tow A Trailer #2  
Can you weld something to where the draw bar would attach? Like a receiver hitch you can easily pull out of the way when not in use.
 
   / 1967 Case 580CK Loader / Backhoe How To Tow A Trailer #3  
I have a 580B, not much difference from the CK AFAIK - only hare-brained idea I can come up with is
1 - if you don't already have 'em, weld some grab hooks on the back side of the hoe bucket, one on each side on the wear strips but NOT where they'll interfere with the flat part of the bucket and teeth, so they don't interfere with "sweeping" stuff away from or into a hole you're digging - I use mine a LOT (portable crane)

2 - weld up a frame (I tend to use square tube, stronger and less twist than angle) Start with 2 pieces of flat bar, big enough to cut/burn holes big enough so they can slip over the two outer teeth of the bucket -

3 - weld a couple pieces of square tube onto the flats, so that they lie parallel to, and under, the bottom of the bucket and extend rearward far enough to be visible from the welded on grab hooks -

3 - crossbar between those two points for stability - then 2 MORE pieces extending straight DOWN from previous points, to the level you want your hitch (with bottom of bucket LEVEL)

4 - crossbar welded between those two, with receiver welded in the center.

5 - two more DIAGONAL pieces, welded between the "tooth socket" front end of each horizontal bar, and the BOTTOM end of the vertical pieces - this forms a triangle so you won't pull your other welds apart -

In operation, slip the 2 "tooth holes" over the bucket teeth, run a piece of chain around your receiver and up to each grab hook, tighten the chain with a ratcheting chain binder -

With the boom locked in transport mode, you should STILL be able to back up to the trailer, tilt the hoe bucket to drop the hitch ball, swing the hoe over to line up with the hitch, tilt the bucket to raise the ball up into the hitch, lock the hitch, and drive away.

Possible added side benefit - if you're pulling thru the woods and it'd be better if the trailer was OFFSET, just swing the boom one way or the other. Same if you're wanting to BACK the trailer, and it's starting to jack-knife BEFORE you get it turned sharp enough -

Done this way, your range of motion for jockeying trailers WITHOUT moving the tractor, is ANYWHERE you can keep the bucket bottom relatively level - in fact, I think I just talked myself into building one for ME :D

Sorry no sketch, post back if this is unclear and I'll try again... Steve
 
 
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