Traction Wheel weights

[ShilohFarm]

Hi Everyone,

I have a CaseIH Farmall 75C and need to add rear wheel weights. I see that CaseIH sells 2 weights (220lbs) per wheel, but someone suggested that I really should consider 3 weights (330lbs) per rear wheel. I do have a CaseIH 620 loader on the front and with no added weights, I have brought one rear wheel off the ground - not may favorite thing to do. When not using the loader, I do remonve it for bush hogging, chisel plowing and discing. Any suggestions on 2 vs 3 weights per rear wheel? Thank you.

 

[LouNY]

There are other places besides CIH when I got mine a few years ago I got 1200 pounds for about a dollar a pound delivered.
And I'm not sure but my 300# weights listed several CIH tractors that they fit.

 

[ShilohFarm]

Thank you for your response. I too, am looking at another source for the weights. With them I have the option of ordering either 220lbs or 330lbs for each real wheel. I am trying to determine which way I should go. Are using your 300# weights on a 75C? Is 220# enough for my tractor? Is there any problem with using 330# weights?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Any reason not to fill the tires? :confused3: A lot less $$$ than iron and heavier. :thumbsup:

On my 75hp tractor I have filled tires and 6 sets of weights to be able to get the maximum capabilities out of it.

I doubled up on front weights as well. Much nicer vs having the loader on for field work.

 

[ShilohFarm]

Great, thank you.

 

[LouNY]

No I have 2 300# weights on each rear wheel on a Branson 8050, 65 pto hp, I have considered getting at least one more for each side.
I do not like filled tires, over the years I have decided that they are not worth the problem's and associated costs, also if you do any road work
liquid filled tires suck up a lot of horsepower and in rough fields the ride is terrible and then the problem's with flats and the cost and time for repairs.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No I have 2 300# weights on each rear wheel on a Branson 8050, 65 pto hp, I have considered getting at least one more for each side.
I do not like filled tires, over the years I have decided that they are not worth the problem's and associated costs, also if you do any road work
liquid filled tires suck up a lot of horsepower and in rough fields the ride is terrible and then the problem's with flats and the cost and time for repairs.

I guess it depends on your conditions-situation. In my opinion, the tractor rides by far better with filled tires vs just air and the wheel weights. I have never had a flat in the 17 years I've been running filled tires, so not familiar with those problems, but then I'm running R4s so that I don't have those kinds of problems.

So you have actual wheel weights that weigh 300lbs each?? Are they industrial weights? I've never seen AG weights that weighed that much. Any pictures of those?

 

[sixdogs]

Go to the tractor weight knock-off places in Texas and look up their charts of what will fit your tractor. Then cross the list to determine which tractors use your weights and the bolt spacing. That way, you can look for used weights and will likely learn your weights are on many models and makes. Note, bolt spacing on weights is between bolts and not on a circumference. Lighter weights and more of them are easier to handle than one big one.

I would start with two weights and avoid loading the tires. Do a search for the details but loaded tires rot the rims, add costs and present ginormous issues and costs if you get a flat. Plus, your weight is what you will always weigh and there will be times you do not want that weight. Cast weights can be removed or added nd when done generally sold for what you paid.

In a pinch, you can always add temporary weight with an implement or weight box on the back. Simple solution for a temporary loader issue.

 

[Ford850]

I agree that filled tires will give you more weight, and a more stable tractor. But you are stuck with full weight all the time. If that matters, then wheel weights make more sense, at least for me they do. I have 2 tractors with similar rear tire sizes, one has filled tires and one has wheel weights. I need some weight for traction, but when I need the most weight it is for loader work. For loader work, the best place to have weight is hanging off the back to lighten the load on the front axle. When using a loader, heavy weight on or in the rear wheels puts the fulcrum stress on the front axle and steering components. Heavy weight hanging off the back puts the fulcrum stress on the rear axle and eases steering. I use wheel weights and a heavy rear ballast when using my loader for heavy work. Then I can drop the rear ballast to lighten the load for normal daily use, and not have such a heavy footprint.

 

[sixdogs]

I agree that filled tires will give you more weight, and a more stable tractor. But you are stuck with full weight all the time. If that matters, then wheel weights make more sense, at least for me they do. I have 2 tractors with similar rear tire sizes, one has filled tires and one has wheel weights. I need some weight for traction, but when I need the most weight it is for loader work. For loader work, the best place to have weight is hanging off the back to lighten the load on the front axle. When using a loader, heavy weight on or in the rear wheels puts the fulcrum stress on the front axle and steering components. Heavy weight hanging off the back puts the fulcrum stress on the rear axle and eases steering. I use wheel weights and a heavy rear ballast when using my loader for heavy work. Then I can drop the rear ballast to lighten the load for normal daily use, and not have such a heavy footprint.

Wish I would have said that.