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  1. #1
    Gold Member caddison's Avatar
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    Jan 2001
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    456
    Location
    NW Missouri
    Tractor
    Case IH DX33

    Default DX33 Ignition Switch

    Has anyone had problems with the ignition switch on their DX or TC33? My DX has 223 hours and the switch is starting to get very hard to turn. I called the dealer and that cheap plastic switch is $50.00! Any other sources out there?

  2. #2
    Platinum Member Redneck_Randy's Avatar
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    Mar 2006
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    528
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Tractor
    2005 New Holland TC35A

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    Squirt some lock graphite in it and see if that might free it up a bit.

  3. #3
    Gold Member caddison's Avatar
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    NW Missouri
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    Case IH DX33

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck_Randy
    Squirt some lock graphite in it and see if that might free it up a bit.
    I have removed the switch and disassembled it. The two contact points are spring loaded. The housing is plastic and shows quite a bit of wear in the area where there are mounted in the housing. I was able to loosen up the spring loaded contacts but this is a temporary fix for sure. I have checked with two dealers and it looks like it is going to cost $50.00 to replace the switch. Sounds a little steep for a plastic switch.

  4. #4
    Epic Contributor
    R.I.P.
    jinman's Avatar
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    Feb 2001
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    21,014
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    Texas - Wise County - Sunset
    Tractor
    NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    I just paid nearly $50 for a temperature gage insert for my instrument panel.
    I feel your pain.
    Jim


  5. #5
    Gold Member caddison's Avatar
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    Jan 2001
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    456
    Location
    NW Missouri
    Tractor
    Case IH DX33

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    Quote Originally Posted by caddison
    Has anyone had problems with the ignition switch on their DX or TC33? My DX has 223 hours and the switch is starting to get very hard to turn. I called the dealer and that cheap plastic switch is $50.00! Any other sources out there?
    Testing
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Veteran Member
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    Oct 2005
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    1,435
    Location
    N. E. Ohio
    Tractor
    tc- 29d

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    I am sure an auto parts store like NAPA could get a close replacement for it; take it in and show them so they can match it up. From what I have read; switches are cheaply made and have failed quite often.
    dqdave1; tc-29D; woods 7500 bh; 7308 fel, land pride tiller, land pride rake, gill pulverizer, 60"mmm. , bucket forks , MZ16H

  7. #7
    Veteran Member daTeacha's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    2,352
    Location
    Funk, Ohio

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    There is a thread or two about this on the NH board. The consensus seems to be that you can get a good non-stock replacement with metal parts at any auto parts store for considerably less than the $50 plastic OEM piece. Just take your switch with you to make sure the new one will fit in the dash. Write down or draw a picture of the connections before you take it apart.
    Rich
    300 hours on the DX29, 850 on the JD 240 and too many to count on the Cadet
    Funk, Ohio

  8. #8
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    72
    Location
    Jefferson County, NY
    Tractor
    Case IH /DX33

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    I went to my Dealer yesterday and asked about the Service Bulletin mike10 mentioned in one of the NH threads and they printed the page off for me. The "Root Cause" on it says " Insufficient voltage at the starter solenoid to extend starter pinion as well as close contacts between the starter motor and battery".

    These are the CIH part numbers listed in the bulletin:

    1 30A Relay 86529089
    1 Relay Base 245731C1
    4 Terminal 225077C1

    It says to procure the following items locally: ring style connector, 14 gauge wire & female spade connector.

    I was just going to replace the switch but decided to do this too, then maybe I will not have to deal with this "no crank" problem again.

    Hope this is helpfull.

    Ron

  9. #9
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    291
    Location
    Arizona
    Tractor
    DX33

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    A few months ago, I started having problems with the ignition switch on my DX33. The key began turning hard and not long after, the starter motor would not engage but the solenoid would click. Sometimes it would even blow the fuse.

    I replaced the switch with $14.00 after market unit and it works great. You can use a switch with either 3 or 4 terminals. Here is how to connect the switch.

    For a 3 terminal switch:
    Cut the factory connector off the wiring harness.
    Connect the 2 RED wires together and solder on a terminal eye.
    Connect this eye to the terminal on the switch labeled BATTERY.

    Solder a terminal eye on the ORANGE wire and connect to the terminal labeled IGNITION.

    Solder a terminal eye on the WHITE wire and connect to the terminal labeled STARTER.

    A 4 terminal switch will have an extra terminal labeled ACC.
    You do not need to connect anything to this terminal unless you want to run any accessories such as a radio, ect...

    I used the 4 terminal switch but did not use the ACC terminal. This way, when I trailer my tractor, I can turn the key to ACC and the key can not fall out of the switch like it can in the off position.
    Believe it or not

  10. #10
    Gold Member caddison's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
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    456
    Location
    NW Missouri
    Tractor
    Case IH DX33

    Default Re: DX33 Ignition Switch

    Quote Originally Posted by Boomerang1
    A few months ago, I started having problems with the ignition switch on my DX33. The key began turning hard and not long after, the starter motor would not engage but the solenoid would click. Sometimes it would even blow the fuse.

    I replaced the switch with $14.00 after market unit and it works great. You can use a switch with either 3 or 4 terminals. Here is how to connect the switch.

    For a 3 terminal switch:
    Cut the factory connector off the wiring harness.
    Connect the 2 RED wires together and solder on a terminal eye.
    Connect this eye to the terminal on the switch labeled BATTERY.

    Solder a terminal eye on the ORANGE wire and connect to the terminal labeled IGNITION.

    Solder a terminal eye on the WHITE wire and connect to the terminal labeled STARTER.

    A 4 terminal switch will have an extra terminal labeled ACC.
    You do not need to connect anything to this terminal unless you want to run any accessories such as a radio, ect...

    I used the 4 terminal switch but did not use the ACC terminal. This way, when I trailer my tractor, I can turn the key to ACC and the key can not fall out of the switch like it can in the off position.
    I believe I will try this for mine.....Thanks!

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