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  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    38
    Location
    Chuckatuck Va.
    Tractor
    CaseIH DX33

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    Jacob:

    Congratulations on your new MF! I had the luxury of trying a MF1533 vs. TC29DA (vs. TC/DX35). Once I decided on the 29-33hp range, price was one concern. I went with a DX33 (based on my TC29 experience). The local MF can be high (and they were pushing gear tractors too). The biggest selling point for me on the DX33 was the operator layout. I found the MF to be more cramped. I am still not sold on the "rocker" pedal, but have learned to deal with it.

    I also went with the DX33 because weight vs. soil issues. I have become a pro at getting the tractor unstuck (or is that getting stuck?) I have wasted a lot of time buried to the chassis. I have a new found respect for the U.S. Army Transportation Corps!

    P.S. I didn't clean my tractor after my first BH outing either!

    Chuckatuck

  2. #12
    Bronze Member jacobweaver32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    90
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Tractor
    MF 1533

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    So here in Ohio it went from 76 degrees on tuesday to like 30 degrees today w/ like 4 inches of snow up here in the cleveland snow belt. Luckily I live about 50 miles south of my work so the snow prolly isnt as bad there, but I doubt Ill get any work in this weekend (being Easter and all too).

    But, last night although the temp dropped down to bout 40, I took the mower out for it's first spin.... (took me 2-2.5hrs to swap the BH to the deck on Tuesday night). I lasted about 2 loops around my yard before I was frozen solid... and I could see the neighbors chuckling in the windows as they knew I just had to be on the thing cause I just got it...

    Deck worked great; i just need to figure out how to get it leveled from front to rear.. it seemed that my top link (or whatever its called) couldn't tighten anymore to bring the back up....I'll figure it out

    I have another (slight) complaint though on the MF... I don't know what is typically on these tractors for decals... but I don't understand some of the lever decals on my tractor.... Like the four wheel drive lever could just say 4x4... rather then some weird square with an arrow in it??? what gives on that? Multi-lingual technique I guess?

    What do the cases have?
    1533, HYDRO, 1525FEL, BHX80 Scooper, PRD 84" rear mower, Woods 72" BB and R4s.

  3. #13
    Veteran Member daTeacha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,352
    Location
    Funk, Ohio

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    The cryptic signs make sense once someone points out what each symbol means. Mine are similar on the Case. A box is the tractor, the line with the star end is a drive shaft, etc. Makes you wonder how effective the things are at being a multi-lingual communication device.

    It sounds like you need a shorter top link. Your tractor might have different holes for the top link to connect to the tractor, too. There are also often different holes for setting up your lower lift arms, which might change things for you, too. You can go to Tractor Supply, Rural King, or a tractor dealership for a new and shorter top link. Just take yours with you for comparison.

    Spring should be back by the weekend, but look for rain on Saturday with the temperatures near 60.
    Rich
    300 hours on the DX29, 850 on the JD 240 and too many to count on the Cadet
    Funk, Ohio

  4. #14
    Bronze Member jacobweaver32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    90
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Tractor
    MF 1533

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/m...very-woot.html

    See link above for some pics I added. I'll take some close ups of the top link and show you what I mean. You can let me know if I am doing anything stupid... However, I think I will have to buy a shorter one like you said.
    1533, HYDRO, 1525FEL, BHX80 Scooper, PRD 84" rear mower, Woods 72" BB and R4s.

  5. #15
    Veteran Member daTeacha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,352
    Location
    Funk, Ohio

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    Those pics are kind of big -- I need to scroll around to see the entire picture.

    Can you post some here instead of with a link?
    Rich
    300 hours on the DX29, 850 on the JD 240 and too many to count on the Cadet
    Funk, Ohio

  6. #16

  7. #17
    Bronze Member richtidebruin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    66
    Location
    Middle TN
    Tractor
    TC34DA

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    Quote Originally Posted by jacobweaver32
    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/m...very-woot.html

    See link above for some pics I added. I'll take some close ups of the top link and show you what I mean. You can let me know if I am doing anything stupid... However, I think I will have to buy a shorter one like you said.

    NICE pics, Really like the hoe. Had my eye on a blue version of that one... If I can be nosey, what is the price range on that?

    Good choice on the 84" cutter also... You would know the difference on your place compared to a 72"

    Looks like you are getting plenty of "work" done already... Congrats.

    Rich
    TC34DA, 14LA, Markham toothbar, BH RDTH 72, BH SBX 650, 20' H&H tilt trailer

  8. #18
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,324
    Location
    Ohio
    Tractor
    Case DX55, Ford 850

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    Jacob,
    Just a quick tip on the deck - you want the leading edge slightly lower (1/2") than the trailing edge. This will let the blades make the full cut at the leading edge and then can shred the cut grass as the rest of the mower passes over. You won't notice a difference in the dried weeds this time of year, but in a couple of months it makes a tremendous difference. It wastes a lot of HP with the deck level or lower in the rear.

  9. #19
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    778
    Location
    Missouri
    Tractor
    Case DX45

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    Just a quick tip on the deck - you want the leading edge slightly lower (1/2") than the trailing edge. This will let the blades make the full cut at the leading edge and then can shred the cut grass as the rest of the mower passes over.
    Ford,

    Never heard this suggested before. Any idea if this would help on a mid-mount mower? I've got a DX33 with a 72" rear discharge MMM. Really works the tractor when cutting very thick full grass. I've been using the factory settings on the diagram which I'm assuming is level front to rear.

    jk

  10. #20
    Bronze Member jacobweaver32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    90
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Tractor
    MF 1533

    Default Re: Why choose DX33/34/35?

    I will get that picture of the top link this weekend... been kindda busy all week.

    About having the "leading edge lower", Thanks for the tip course as you may or may not be able to tell from the pics at times I had the deck pretty high to keep from hitting some mounds of dirt where it wasnt level. But when I did have it down to the deck wheels I couldnt bring up the back if I wanted without a shorter top link ..... or adjusting the wheels in the rear.(Which I tried to do but the bolts holding on the wheels are two tight to loosen.) It said in the manual to adjust the wheel you need to take off the bolt and move the spacers around... BUT I CANT GET THE BOLT OFF. Maybe the old wrench in the pipe trick might work!

    Rich, its funny you mention about the 72 vs. 84.... because I am so glad as well. Here is why....

    The first dealership I ever stopped at to get pricing and information from ... was in fact a case dealer... I was looking at the dx33 at the time. I told him i wanted the FEL a backhoe and a 84" cut rear mower. He told me that the 33 wouldnt be able to handle an 84" cut.....At the time I really knew nothing about tractors so I just ate it up.....He actually ended up suggesting that I go with the belly mower instead of the rear mount. He said it would be easier to manage on the lawn (I guess I didnt give a good representation of my lot condition).
    Later.... at the MF dealer he told me I would be nuts to go with a belly mower if I was getting a backhoe..... Again, ignorant... I says "why"? He went on to discribe about the need of a subframe addition when putting on a large BH attachment and with that subframe in place a Midmount would not be able to be connected. (In fact, since the midmount was a option on the MF I saved some dough cause I had it omitted). Then the MF dealer went on to tell me how a 84" would be no problem with the 33.

    With that said, I am quite happy with the 84" and I have not had any troubles caused by underpowering..... only stalled once and that was when I hit a large mound of dirt. (after that I wised up to start lifting over those or dropping the FEL to scrap it flat.)

    The hoe was 6k with subframe and assembly. Everyone told me I was nuts buying it... but by the time I am done with all the field tile, create a walkin basement, and put some culverts in for my drive... I would have spent at least 3-5k having someone else to it.... So I am happy with my decision. (and it is by far the funest implement..... well the FEL is fun too, but a little more difficult to operate because of the visibility issue).
    1533, HYDRO, 1525FEL, BHX80 Scooper, PRD 84" rear mower, Woods 72" BB and R4s.

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