case 444 won't start

[JProcken]

I finely get my case its a 444 instead of the 446 like I was told but whatever. So I was told that the switch was bad and the switch the owner got was the wrong one then come to find out he was told it still would work the switch is for Ford tractors I got it put in to find out the battery was no good. I went out and got one but its not the right one tryed to start it with still but it would not start it sounded like it wanted to but just wouldn't. Any clues would be helpful thank you

 

[hydriv]

I finely get my case its a 444 instead of the 446 like I was told but whatever. So I was told that the switch was bad and the switch the owner got was the wrong one then come to find out he was told it still would work the switch is for Ford tractors I got it put in to find out the battery was no good. I went out and got one but its not the right one tryed to start it with still but it would not start it sounded like it wanted to but just wouldn't. Any clues would be helpful thank you

Problems begin with these tractors when OWNERS form the belief that any part can be installed to replace one that is worn out. This is especially true with the electrical system.

My advice is this.


Go get the serial number off of the metal plate on the dash tower and post it here so that we know which 444 "build" you own. They were made from 1969 to 1988 and many changes happened during that 20 year span.

Order a correct ignition switch for your tractor because the one you have now is flat out WRONG. I urge you to purchase the correct Parts and Operator's Manual for your tractor. There is a wiring diagram in the Op Manual that shows all the wiring colours and that makes your life simple when it comes to tracing the wiring in your tractor. I know that you are anxious to get it running but why run the risk of wrecking other parts in your haste? The person you bought this tractor from obviously didn't have a clue about it or how to do proper repairs. Who knows what all he has done wrong?

Slow down, get the proper manuals and switch first. Then go over the entire wiring to make sure everything is connected properly.

Contact this person for your parts needs. Provide him with your serial number and model number. If you order today, you will likely have everything by Monday next.

Brian Hildreth

*Salem Power Equipment,LLC

*6430 Napier Road
Plymouth, MI
*48170

*(734) 649-*‐1781
*
*bhildret@aol.com
*
*salempwr@aol.com

 

[JProcken]

Once again its nice to talk to someone with a clue. I would agree that he had no clue the switch wasn't even in the right place! I have been thinking about getting an op manual. The biggest problem is the wife she gos by a business and law aspect and said it should be fixed by Sunday which is a week from when I bought it by him or get my money back now hearing what you have to say nether are something I want. So I will look up the numbers and see if I can post since I have bad service at home tonight. Thank you again hydrv

 

[JProcken]

Ok got it serial No. 9692654. The funny thing is that the owner had a 6 v battery in it. a friend that knows a lot about tractors told me to look at the generator and see if it is a 6 v or 12v go figure its a 12 v and not a 6. ( MORON! )

 

[hydriv]

Your tractor is a 1974 model. It should have Desert Sunset tin (fenders/hood) and Power Red wheels, frame, axles etc. The Kohler will have a start/gen unit. The system is 12 volts, as are all Colt, Case and Ingersoll models.

The correct battery can be bought at your local Walmart for less than thirty bucks. The new ignition switch will also cost less than thirty bucks and the two manuals will likely cost around that same money for both of them.

These are very strong, well-made machines. You can tell your dear wife that you are willing to make her happy with a nice new Ingersoll if she will OK the $5500.00 expenditure. Now....if she thinks that figure does not factor into the household budget, then I suggest that she cuts you some slack by allowing you the latitude needed to put the current one back into good running order.

 

[JProcken]

It toke sometime but thanks to a post that the wife found by brian H. I was able to figure out the year as well. I told her what you posted and she was in agreement her thing was that I should get $150-$200 back since it was told to us it was in running conditions and it not. Like I said the switch was moved do to a lack of wire and the battery was a 6v. Thank you for all your help again. Its good to know where I can find a battery and I have already called and left a message for Brian. O and no I know she wont go for a new one lol

 

[hydriv]

I agree with your wife that a deal is a deal. If the tractor was sold in running condition, then it should run. However, there are a lot of factors involved. It is difficult for anyone reading this thread to judge your situation because there are no photos of the tractor for us to see nor do we know what you paid for it or what options and implements came with the deal.

Maybe you paid too much and maybe you practically stole it. I'm not saying that the Ford ignition switch could not be wired to make the engine run but I doubt that it has all the proper functions of the OEM switch. After all, you bought the tractor knowing that the switch was not correct. That is acceptance. You also knew that it needed a new battery. That too, is acceptance.

The unknown here is what it will take in dollars to get the engine to run with the turn of the key. If other things are not right and those were not revealed, then I would agree that you have a valid complaint. Obtaining the two manuals will allow you to determine the right and wrong of the electrical system and correct any past voodoo caused by past owners. At that point, you can determine whether a phone call to the Seller should be made. After all, we are talking about a tractor that was made some 37 years ago.

 

[JProcken]

Your right. However this post was intended for you. I posted earlyer in the year about getting a case my subject was case 446 pto, hydrolic and 3 point hutch at that point you helped me a lot. So here's the run down as I know it I just payed $1000 for a 1974 case 444 it came with I believe a 48" mower deck and snow blower it also came with tire weights. It has a 14 HP kohler with a custom smoke stack and I'm using the term custom vary loosely! I will get a picture out hear soon. As far as what we knew when we agreed to buy it was he thought the problem was the battery and then said it wasnt and that it was the switch however it sounded like he was going to get the right one and I didn't even check to see if it was or not that was my fault. I believe that should do it if any one has any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[hydriv]

Currently, a complete 3 pt hitch will bring $450.00 on e-Bay. The F-27 Sleeve Hitch Adapter will bring $150.00 if you got one of those. The snowcaster in decent shape will command $350.00 when the season is upon us. Cast iron wheel weights have been bringing as much as $225.00 per pair and there should be 4 weights on your tractor because a D10 WW kit was comprised of 4 weights plus the mounting bolts.

The deck model will say J-46 but that's a 48 inch model.

As I see it, the WW kit would be worth $400.00 plus $350.00 for the snow caster. That's $750.00 out of the $1000.00. A decent looking, running 444 with a deck is easily worth $500.00 on its own, so I'd say you did OK. As I understand it, there are not a lot of Case tractors in MN these days so that can push up the price a bit too.

You should do away with the silly exhaust system. Your tractor is supposed to have a large oval muffler on it but those have been out of production for many years. I can give you a contact for a reproduction muffler that was used on the 444's a couple of years earlier once you resolve the current issues.

 

[JProcken]

Ok I tryed to post a picture with no success. The tractor only came with the rear weights. As far as the muffler gos I would like to put one ob that I have seen in my image search it a show quality case 444 looks to be a round the same year its a curved pipe that canes form the manifold and gos to the front in to a muffler however I don't know how it will effect the performance of the tractor compared to the one that should be on it. Now got a battery the switch dose work however I will be getting the right one along with the op's and a fan blade because the one that's on it is so broken it not even funny. I was doing some trouble shooting and found out it wasn't getting gas so I thought looking at it more closely I found that the choke line snapped off at the bend I fixed the however it will choke but not release so I have been doing it manually and now have a running case now that I have been able to us it I will never buy anything other than a case I only used it for an hour or two but fell in love with it in that short time. I have heard of a few other cases not in running condition but I'm going to see if I can get my hands on them as well. Thanks for all your help once again hydriv I'm sure I will talk to you again.