6020 won't move

[phoenix94]

I had noticed intermittent slowing, now it won't move at all in reverse, sometimes very slowly in forward. Hydraulic fluid level was okay but I changed it and the filter anyway (about 290 hrs on the tractor), had to use 15w40 as no 20 wgt available locally. Rear gear fluid is up to snuff.

Linkage doesn't seem to be binding and the other hydraulics such as the bucket and the three point hitch operate normally. Any ideas?

 

[hydriv]

Based upon the following factors

- only 290 hours on the tractor

- hydraulic oil level is correct

- type of oil is correct

- loader will lift full bucket of dirt to full height

- new hydraulic filter

- linkage does not bind

- will not move in reverse but will sort of move forward


It would appear to me that the drive motor has failed. I have heard of this at least two times in the past. The output shaft of the drive motor is connected to a stub shaft inside and that stub shaft has been known to snap. The least expensive way to resolve your problem is to purchase a used drive motor from a 444, 446, 448, 4016, 4018 or 4020 model off of e-bay and install it. The alternative is to take your drive motor to a firm that specializes in rebuilding hydraulics and have them change out the broken stub shaft. These motors are fairly complicated internally and the work should be done by someone who is experienced. Cleanliness cannot be stressed enough. Depending upon how badly broken the shaft is, there could be loose shrapnel inside the motor creating more damage every time you try to use the tractor. You should shift the trans-axle into neutral and push it by hand or tow it to a spot where it can be worked on.

As you say, the hydraulic system is working perfectly otherwise. That rules out the pump and the pump coupler. 15W40 is a perfectly acceptable grade of oil. With a mere 290 hours, the foot linkage (banana plate) should have minimal wear. However, sliding under the tractor and examining the linkage while someone uses the foot pedal and shift lever is a good idea. Watch the spool that goes in and out of the travel valve body to make sure the spool is going all the way in and all the way out. It costs nothing to check that out prior to dealing with the motor, which I believe is the real issue. If you want a motor and cannot find one, send me a PM and I will connect you with a guy in Michigan who can probably help.

 

[phoenix94]

Thanks for the response hydriv, appreciate the help. The gear selection lever moves normaly: forward -neutral-reverse. When in forward the travel pedal moves normally and I can see the spool on the travel control valve move out. When in neutral the travel pedal functions normally. When the selector is in reverse the travel pedal cannot be pressed down and the spool does not move.

Please forgive my ignorance of the hydraulics system, I hope I've made myself clear. I sure hope it's not the drive motor, wouldn't I have heard something snap or hear some grinding noise if the shaft had broken? I was leaning toward the control valve being the culprit, but as I said my knowledge of hydraulics is scant.

 

[hydriv]

Fresh information brings a fresh diagnosis from me. LOL

Problems with the actual control valve are extremely rare because they are such a simple device with only one moving part. That part is the spool that slides in and out and it has just two O-rings on it to keep the oil from leaking out.

Here is what I suggest.

Use a jack to raise the rear wheels off the ground and support the tractor securely with safety stands. Slide underneath and disconnect the spool from the rest of the control linkage. Try moving the spool fully in and fully out of the valve body. if it moves both ways freely, then start the engine with the trans-axle in Low Range. Leave the engine running at an idle. Slide back under the tractor and push the spool all the way in and then slowly pull it all the way out. The wheels should rotate in one direction and then as you slide the spool back out they should slow down as you approach neutral and then begin to rotate in the opposite direction, picking up speed until the spool is fully extended.

This will tell you whether the drive motor and control valve are functioning properly. If so, then something has gone wrong with the foot pedal linkage. Perhaps something broke or slipped out of a hole that it should be in. Careful examination of the linkage while a helper is up top and depressing it slowly should reveal what has happened. I suspect that it is a minor issue and may be nothing more than a cotter pin that has fallen out or a spring that has slipped off at one end. I say this because of the machine having a mere 290 hours on it, which is next to nothing in the overall scheme of things. Stay at it, you will find the problem.

Do you have the parts manual?

 

[phoenix94]

Thanks, I'm going to give that a try today. Don't have the parts manual, been trying to locate that and a service manual but haven't found them yet.

 

[hydriv]

Here is the parts manual.


http://www.rottmansales.com/ingersoll/8-3360.pdf



The Service Manual consists of individual manuals that cover particular aspects of the tractor and those aspects are shared with several other models. So rather than create a singular service manual for every model built by Case and Ingersoll, they issued a Clutch Manual to repair the PTO clutch used on all the garden tractors. They issued a Trans-axle Manual that covers all of the garden tractors as well as the loader and loader/backhoe models. There is a manual for pumps, drive motors, control valves, hydraulic theory, steering, electrical etc, all on an individual basis.

 

[phoenix94]

Thanks for the link! Well, with the linkage disconnected the spool goes in and out, the wheels go forward and backward, and there are no unusual noises. So I guess that means that despite my earlier analysis and report the problem must be in the linkage, right?

 

[hydriv]

I would have to agree. At least you have ruled out any hydraulic problems. The manual should help indicate how the control valve linkage was connected originally. It is unlikely that you bent something but that's not out of the realm of possibility. Study the parts book and compare it to what you see under the tractor.

 

[phoenix94]

Just wanted to let you know that this turned out to be a simple cleaning and adjustment of the linkage, boy do I feel dumb. Thank you so much hydriv for your help and expertise.

 

[hydriv]

I do like happy endings. LOL