Fixup an old Case 446 for a Maine Orchard

[JaimesBeam]

I'm buying a Case 446 to use in my Maine Orchard.
I would appreciate any advice fixing it up, as it's got a number
of problems! One of my neighbors has a newer Ingersoll 444,
which I've lusted after for years, but he won't sell it even though
I don't think he ever uses it.

I'm hoping the Case will be an upgrade from the aging 12/14HP
Craftsman LT4000 with a 42" mower that I can't seem to keep
ahead of the grass growing!!!

First off, it comes with a 46" mowing deck; are there any bigger
mowing decks available? I have about 10 acres to mow.
Apparently the PTO clutch needs to be adjusted; right now,
it's either always on or always off when you turn on the engine.

There is a hydraulic control valve on left of the dashboard, but
nothing on the rear of the tractor; no three point hitch, and I
think I've seen pictures with the/a hydraulic valve on the rear
of the tractor. It would be really great to have a three point hitch or
rototiller.

It also comes with a snowblower and a snowplow. Supposedly the
?horizontal? bearings on the snowblower are shot; where can I find
replacements for them? Can I use the plow to grade my (sand)
driveway?

There are also wheel weights and chains, but he has to find the chains!!

It also needs a battery. It hasn't been run for ten years, but ran last
time it was used. I know I need to put new gas and oil in it; what kind
of engine oil and hydraulic oil? Supposedly a long time ago the engine
'ate a piston', and was then rebuilt.

It looks pretty crappy with some yellow paint splashed on the hood,
mower deck and fenders, but not rusty, it's been in an old garage most
of the time. I'll try to get some pictures.

So I can get this diamond for the bargain price of $500!!! What do you think?

Oh I think the tractor serial# is 969589. The Onan engine Model is MS / 2434C,
serial# 0374774772.

Any Advice and options appreciated!!!

Many Thanks, Jim

 

[hydriv]

OK.... Here's the good news.

The Case in question is a 1974. Value-wise.... $500.00 for the package is cheap....providing the attachments are in decent condition.

MOWER DECK is actually a 48 inch cut and your main concern with it will be the 6 spindle bearings, the belt idler pulley, the belt that joins the spindles together and the blades. All parts are available.

SNOW BLOWER - the bearings for the ends of the auger are available as are the bearings for the counter shaft. You will likely need a new drive chain as well. If the housing, auger and chute are badly rusted, then those should be blasted down to bare metal and several coats of paint applied if you want the unit to perform well. Parts alone will set you back somewhere around 80 bucks. Costs for sandblasting will depend on what local companies charge. I would value the Snowblower at $100.00 due to its current condition. If it was in decent shape and usable, then I would value it at $350.00.

UTILITY BLADE - Really good blades can bring as much as $400.00 if they are not bent, still have life in the cutting edge and are not rusted. Blades that are not bent but need a new cutting edge plus sandblasting and repainting are not worth more than about $80.00. And yes, you can grade sand, topsoil and gravel with this blade as well as move snow.

WHEEL WEIGHT KIT - There were two types of wheel weights available for this tractor. The early weights consisted of cast iron discs that weighed 37 1/2 LBS each. A proper kit came with 4 discs plus the bolts to attach them to the rear wheel. These gave the owner 75 LBS per wheel when installed. Currently, these discs can bring as much as $100.00 EACH on e-Bay. The later wheel weight kit used moulded plastic housings that were filled with concrete. They gave the same amount of weight when mounted. A set of those weights will bring $100.00 to $120.00 on e-Bay.

TIRE CHAINS- were available in either 2 link or 4 link style meaning that there is a cross-chain either every 2nd link or every 4th link on the side chains. 2 link chains are more expensive than 4 link chains. I value a good set of used 2 link chains # 80 dollars and the 4 link @ 50 dollars.


A non-running 1974 Case 446 with a mower deck is worth $300.00 all day long providing it is complete and not beat to death. So if you do the math, you will see that $500.00 is not too much to pay for this package.

NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS.


The 48 deck is the largest deck that you can slide under that Case. In 1980, Case added 2 inches to the wheelbase to allow the NEW 60" deck to fit without interference but that deck will not work on the older tractors with the shorter wheelbase. In my opinion, you need the 60 inch deck. However.........you have the option of sticking with the 48" deck and purchasing a Swisher offset mower that has its own engine and can be towed by the Case. This combo should give you the ability to cut 8 feet of grass on each pass, allowing for some overlap of the two mower decks while in operation. Purchasing a ZTR with a 72" deck is another option but an expensive one by comparison because you are into Commercial models at that width. Secondly, if the orchard is rough, then you may find the ZTR to be tough on your body with the small wheels. The big advantage of a ZTR has to do with a higher ground speed than a garden tractor along with them being highly maneuverable due to their design.

The Case garden tractor will allow you to blow snow, blade snow, blade sand/dirt etc and do other tasks that most ZTR's are not designed to do.

Your biggest concern right now ....before making this deal.... should be with the true condition of the ONAN engine because these are quite expensive to rebuild. It could cost you as much as $2000.00 to rebuild that engine if it needs everything, meaning rods, pistons, valves, springs, guides, gaskets, boring, resurfacing, oil pump etc. For all you know, that engine could have one or two broken rods right now. I suggest that you go there and check out the engine first. Remove both spark plugs. Try to rotate the engine by hand using the PTO clutch that is on the front of the engine to get a grip on. The engine should turn over quite easily if it is not seized and there is no rust in the bores. If it does rotate freely, then stick something such as a coat-hanger wire into each spark plug hole until it contacts the piston. Then rotate the PTO clutch with your other hand to see if the coat-hanger wire moves in or out as you rotate the engine. If the wire does not move, then you have a broken rod on that side.


The engine requires straight grade SAE 30...not a multi-grade and you must be diligent at keeping the oil level to the mark on the dipstick at all times.

The hydraulics require 20W50 motor oil but 15W40 is also acceptable and commonly found at Wallmart. Shell's Rotella T brand is often used by owners. You can use the same oil in the trans-axle, which also should be drained and refilled with 3 quarts. The hydraulics will take about 6 or so quarts.

The word "rebuilt" is often thrown around and unless a Seller can produce paperwork to back up such claims, then I put no faith in the word.


In order to understand VALUE, you must compare the cost of this used package to that of brand new. Case no longer makes these tractors. Eastman Industries in Maine owns the brand and the name has been changed to INGERSOLL. A new 4018 basic tractor will cost you around 8 grand plus another 1500 for a 48" mower deck. Wheel weights and chains - 500 - Snow blower- 2000 - utility blade - 1000. These are high-end machines and are priced accordingly. What is good about them is that they are easy to work on and the basic core of the tractor is nearly indestructible. However, if you intend to purchase a well-used Case or Ingersoll, then you must understand that it will require your time to go through it and correct all the problems that are now present after nearly 40 years have gone by. Do not conclude that a new battery and some fluids are all that is needed. There could be wiring issues, steering issues, linkage issues etc that need to be sorted out NOW. If you don't have the mechanical skills and the tools needed, then don't buy this package. But if you are reasonably handy with tools and like to work on machinery, then ownership of this Case can be very rewarding.

Parts and manuals can be had from Brian Hildreth at Salem Power. Google Salem Power for his contact information. Brian will ship you what you need quickly and at the lowest possible cost. You will find him to be an invaluable resource. This is a good time of year to buy because you have the whole winter to rebuild the mower deck, snowblower, utility blade and of course, the tractor.

Used three-point hitches often bring 400 to 500 dollars on e-bay. However, a used sleeve hitch costs half that amount and you can mount the hydraulic tiller to it directly. If you want the 3 point, then you will need a Sleeve Hitch Adapter to mount the tiller and it will cost you another 150 or so. Good used tillers will bring 400 dollars quite easily. In order to power the tiller, you need the optional rear PTO kit that consists of a valve and lines. Expect to pay around $200.00 or so for one of them. Just make sure that it is complete and is CORRECT for your tractor. Either hitch will allow you to attach a single furrow 10 or 12" turning plough along with other attachments such as cultivators, discs and harrows.

The lever on the left side of the steering wheel controls the forward and reverse. The lever on the right side controls the raising and lowering of the mower deck, utility blade, snowblower and any hitch the tractor may have. The lever on the left side of the dash tower operates the mechanical PTO clutch which will likely need to be dismantled and rebuilt.

Pictures of all four sides of the tractor would be helpful.

 

[JaimesBeam]

Looking at the alternatives .... current Ebay Ads:

<http://www.ebay.com/itm/350905423848?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649>

<http://www.ebay.com/itm/121186773706?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649>

<http://www.ebay.com/itm/231074710663?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649>

The first two seem in better shape, but far way from me... What do you think of them?

I'll get pictures tomorrow...

The Wheel weights are plastic coated, fastened to the rims...

I'll take a look at the mower deck and snowblower, and make sure that they will turn somewhat.

I'll take a battery and see if the Onan will turn over at all, or if it will turn over by hand. I'll try the method
you mention to check the pistons.

The hydraulic valve I mentioned on the left of the dash is an actual hydraulic valve that turns on the PTO, and
switches the PTO from the front to the back; not the levers that raises and lowers the mower deck and the
ground speed/direction lever. What does that valve I see on the back of some other model pictures do?
A spare oil cooler fan and PTO clutch shoes (looks like a circle gasket) are included. Supposedly the PTO clutch
needs adjustment.

I'm reasonably handy with tools; but I'm not up to rebuilding an engine by myself. I'm pretty good at cutting
through the add-on crap and getting a machine basically running without all the bells and whistles if you know
what I mean.

I actually have a 60" offset Swisher mower. It's the only way to mow under the trees which are mostly dwarf/
semi-dwarf. However, it's pretty difficult to pull with a Craftsman, while mowing with the Craftsman, and mow
with the Swisher offset at the same time. The orchard is VERY rough; there are large ruts from spraying with
a big tractor (Belarus 310 32 HP 4WD) with a 3PH 100 Gal airblast sprayer for scab in the spring when it's wet.
I have not found an easy way to fill in these ruts, so when I mow I have to straddle the ruts, and I'm hoping the
Case will not get stuck as easily.

I also have a Ford 907 Flail Mower that I modified to be somewhat offset; but it does not handle long grass at
all!!! It gets bound up, even with new flails etc; whereas the riding mowers will cut grass however long albeit
slowly. I fantasize that if I get a tiller for the Case I'll be able to till the ruts away. In any case I'll be lucky if
I can mow with either the Swisher OR the belly mower but not both at the same time. It's easier to use the belly
mower to do the middle of the aisles, and use the Swisher to do the sides under the trees..

Maybe what I really need is a Sicklebar mower?????

Thanks for your Advice, it's very helpfull.

Jim

 

[hydriv]

The first e-Bay offering appears to be a 1983 446 basic tractor that is in nice condition. With the mower deck, I would value it at $800.00. The cab is also quite nice and it adds another $400.00. The snowcaster has been rebuilt and I would value it at $350.00 easily. It should have wheel weights and tire chains to make it effective during the winter. You should put all these listings on your SAVE list to see the final hammer price. Of course, this one would be a difficult buy for you because you would have to get it shipped from Wisconsin. The cab would likely be a negative when you are in the orchard but they do come off pretty easily.


The second listing is for a 1984 Case 446 basic tractor with a 48" mower deck. Overall, it looks fairly original and in decent shape for the year. Someone has changed the rear wheels for an inexplicable reason. The original rims were painted white at the factory. The ones that are on it now were painted red and someone has done a terrible job painting the outer side with a rattle can. This one is worth the $750.00 BIN price providing the engine has good compression and does not smoke. It too is some distance away as it is in Indiana.

The third listing is a waste of time. No engine, no pump. That's what we are being told. However, I bet that there is no PTO clutch either and who knows what else is missing? Cosmetically, it is in rough shape and has seen a hard life. Right now, it is just a parts tractor that would be worth perhaps $200.00 to someone local.

If you are up for the task, the one in Maine might be your best deal if you are willing to conduct a complete overhaul. The best thing about doing so is that you can bring the snowcaster, mower deck and utility blade back to first-class condition so that you know what you have. You can expect many years of excellent service from all three if you keep them maintained. The same goes for the tractor. Taking one of these back down to the bare frame is not that difficult if you follow my instructions. At that point, you can replace worn out parts and do the small repairs that have gone unnoticed for many years. When you are done, the tractor will be almost like brand new. The engine condition will depend upon whether it needs a full rebuild now or just some service work to get it running once again.

DO NOT put a battery into this tractor and spin the engine. Pull the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand. If there is loose carbon in the cylinders that has fallen to the bottom of the bores, then that carbon will try and stop the pistons from passing Top Dead Center. You will break the pistons by using a starter motor to spin the engine. What is most important to you right now is whether both pistons will move up and down when you rotate the crank. If they do, then at least you don't have a broken rod or two. If the crank turns easily but hits a hard spot, do not force it. Wait until you have it home, pull both heads and then inspect the bores for rust. Light rust can be cleaned up with a hone.


In order to understand about this "valve on the left side of the dash", I would have to see photos. What you are telling me does not match what I know about these tractors. A photo or two may clarify the situation.

One thing that Colt, Case and Ingersoll tractors have that no other garden tractor offers is a constant flow of hydraulic fluid of at least 8 gallons per minute at pressures that can reach 2300 PSI. This system is what propels the tractor forward and reverse but it can also be tapped into by adding the optional rear mounted PTO valve kit that you will see mounted just behind the seat on tractors that have been equipped with it. That valve will allow you to plug in the hydraulic rototiller, a 4 foot Bush Hog style mower for cutting rough fields, a 4 foot finishing mower, a chipper/shredder, a log splitter and two vacuum units that can spit all the material chewed up by the mower deck into either a bagger unit or an enclosed trailer that is towed behind the tractor.

Whether the PTO just needs an "adjustment" or not is simply someone's opinion. I put zero faith in such opinions because if that's all it took to make the clutch right, then why have they not done it? Most likely, they have tried and failed. And the reason they failed is because there are parts that need to be replaced.

The Case will have no problem mowing grass and pulling the Swisher at the same time. The ride will be much smoother thanks to the 16" rim diameter of the rear wheels. If you add the hydraulic PTO kit, a sleeve hitch and tiller, then you can use those to eliminate the ruts made by your Russian tractor. You do not want a sickle mower. They are a pain in the butt because they are easily damaged and require a lot of maintenance on a constant basis. If the plastic fan is new, it is worth about $25.00. The clutch disc is worth about $20.00. Both items are nice to have because the plastic gets brittle with age and the blades snap off. The fan is needed to keep the air flowing through the oil cooler.

If you could put dual wheels on the Belarus, you might be able to eliminate the annual rut problem, thus making life for you and the Case much easier. Without the ruts, mowing the grass will be easier and faster. At that point, you will want to mow more often and long grass won't be an issue.

 

[Xfaxman]

Looking at the alternatives ---------------

Maybe what I really need is a Sicklebar mower?????

Thanks for your Advice, it's very helpfull.

Jim

This is what I would recommend, an out front mower deck.

This one is a 1996, with 4WD and a 6' deck.

There several brands available and cabs and snow blowers too.

Kubota is the most popular here on TractorByNet: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-lawn-garden/278809-kubota-f-series.html

 

[JaimesBeam]

I thought about something like that. A guy nearby has a couple of JD912's that are front mower machines.

$1800 for one with a 72" mower deck and $1000 without the mower deck. These are fixed up and running.
When I mentioned looking at Case 446, he started badmouthing them; said they weren't hydrostatic and they
were dangerous. He said the JD912 basically has a diesel engine with a gas top end, and would run forever.

But I don't know if it could do everything the case could; although he said he used it as a fork lift...

Thanks, Jim.

 

[JaimesBeam]

How about this? This is near me:

Sounds very nice, but it's more money then I've got!

<http://maine.craigslist.org/grd/4119314584.html>

Thanks, Jim.

 

[hydriv]

If $1200.00 is more money than you've got, then you have a serious problem.

First off, the asking price for that package is reasonable but it is the wrong package for your needs. That is a 222 Case Lo Pro tractor with a 12 HP Kohler K engine and the 12" diameter rear rim size. You would be further ahead with a 444 that has 4 more inches of ground clearance and the larger 16" rear rims. The tiller alone is worth $400.00 and it is the exact same tiller that is used on the 400 Series tractors. The Sleeve Hitch is worth $150 and the rear PTO kit is worth another $200.00. So right there, those three items add up to $750.00 out of the $1200.00 asking price, leaving $450.00 for the tractor and deck. In my opinion, the Seller has priced it right.

Based on your disclosure regarding available funds, I think that you are being unrealistic. There is no way that you are going to find the package you need for the chump change you want to spend. Case garden tractors have always been a high-end product. They are not in the same league as that Craftsman you have or any of the offerings currently available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace Hardware and similar stores.

Here's a reality check for you.

- a brand new Ingersoll 4018 lists for $7419.00 as a basic tractor.

- a 48" mower deck lists for $1670.00

- a sleeve hitch lists for $535.00

- a 48" snocaster lists for $1961.00

- a 54" Utility Blade lists for $1255.00

- the 41" tiller will set you back $1749.00

- the rear PTO kit costs $795.00

- the wheel weight kit costs $261.00

- the front counterweight that is needed when a tiller is mounted, costs $583.00

- Tire chains cost 183.00


A tractor equipped as above lists for $16,411.00 plus local taxes.

Any 20 to 40 year old Case or Ingersoll tractor is going to need WORK along with new parts. You can expect to spend at least $1000.00 to do a proper overhaul. Parts prices are commensurate with the price of a new tractor because many of the parts used back in 1975 are still being used today but inflation has pushed up their price. A brand new PTO clutch for the front of the engine is now in the $600.00 range and that is only one part. If you are going to operate an orchard, then you need to have the appropriate equipment and that equipment is rated for commercial enterprises, not part-time residential use. All of the product at the local hardware stores use low quality engines that are expected to last about 1000 hours and then they are done. You will be lucky to get 1000 hours out of the cheapo hydrostatic trans-axles used in the L Series John Deere tractors and the 1000 Series Cub Cadets. There's nothing wrong with that. These machines are built to meet a certain price point so that Joe Average homeowner with a one acre lot can afford to buy one.

You are not in that category sir. You have 10 acres of rough ground that will beat one of those residential machines to death in short order. I don't know what the answer is for you because it appears that you have money for a beer but you want the best quality champagne. Unfortunately, that's not how things work.

 

[JaimesBeam]

What's the difference between the Case 222, 444, 446, 448?


Ingersoll tractor

Case 444 tractor

444 Case garden tractor, snowblower, mowing deck

Case 220 Garden Tractor

1981 Case 446

Case 446. Lawn &garden with 48" snow blower hydro lift drive. 48"mower

Case 448 with loader

 

[JaimesBeam]

Welcome to my world...

I have to make do with what I've got, or can afford, or can fix up or whatever...

It's not that I want something for nothing. I'm trying to make sure I'm getting the
best bang for my buck, and doing to research to prevent making a poor decision,
or ending up with buyers remorse.

I realize I've been beating to death residential machines; I'm *trying* to upgrade
to something better. I think I've done pretty well with them; pay $300 for a used
one, fix it up, run it hard for a few years, fix it when it breaks, repeat... But it
takes up more time, and takes longer to get things done...

I'm not disagreeing with you that I'll have to spend money to get something better.
I can only spend money as it comes in... But I think my original prospect is the
best deal for me... Tomorrow I'll be going over to take pictures and go over it in detail;
let's hope for the best...

Thank God for the internet!! If it wasn't for being able to locate parts on ebay etc, and
your advice I couldn't take rebuilding something like this.

Thanks for your help, Jim.