1969 Case 220 wont turn over

[sportsman57]

Hi-This is the first time I have posted a question. I have an old case 220 Ser. No. 9629639 which I believe is a 1969 model and it has a snow blade on which I use to plow snow. Recently I left it outside one night and it rained hard all night . Since then I have been unable to start it. When I turn the key I get nothing. I have it inside now so it has been dry for a few weeks. The wiring is a mess from the previous owner and the ignition is a jumble of wires and some wires have wire nuts and they go nowhere. I cant complain because I got it for free along with the deck and a snow blade. It always started before it got wet in the rain, but now, nothing. I am fairly handy doing simple mechanical stuff but when it comes to wiring I'm not too knowlegeable. I have a volt meter but really don't know how to use it. I read a post by Hydriv on how to re-wire the ignition and how to replace the old wires, but I would first like to find out why it wont start and what the problem is. I think it could be my ignition switch , as it was loose in the dash and I was having problems with it before it got rained on. Before when I turned the key, the Gen light would light up, now nothing. Does anyone know how I could check the ignition switch to see if its good or could I take one off my case 446 to use as a test.

I also have a 2 Case 446's (Onans) which I want to restore to use for snow removal and cutting the lawn. One is running but the carb needs to be replaced or rebuilt, and the fellow put on a electric fuel pump. The other came with the engine in a box as the gentleman I got it from said it stopped running one day and he let a friend he works with try to fix it. He disassembled the engine but when he couldn't remove the crank shaft he stopped the tear down. I since have found out on the web the way to remove the crank is to get a gear pully to remove it. It came with a snow blower, and a deck for 300.00. I got the other one that is running for 400.00 but only the tractor.

I really like the Case garden tractors and can see why so many people love to rebuild and restore them. This site is awesome for the information you can find and the members are so willing to share their knowledge on the repair and restoration of tractors.

 

[hydriv]

I would suggest the following course of action.

Get yourself a jumper lead with alligator clips on the ends of it and a regular set of battery booster cables . Remove any wires that go to the plus post on the ignition coil. If the battery that is IN the tractor right now is fully charged, then connect the black booster cable to the negative battery post and the other end to a clean spot in the Kohler engine. Connect the red booster cable to the positive battery post. Then connect the small jumper wire to the plus post on the ignition coil and the other end to the positive battery post. Take the loose end of the red booster cable and touch it to the post on the Starter/Generator where the heavy wire is connected to.

The engine should now spin over and it should start and run if there are no problems with fuel or spark.

The time has come for you to completely rewire that tractor. It is not a big job. I can provide you with a wiring diagram and other advice should you decide to go ahead. Send me an e-mail.

 

[sportsman57]

I would suggest the following course of action.

Get yourself a jumper lead with alligator clips on the ends of it and a regular set of battery booster cables . Remove any wires that go to the plus post on the ignition coil. If the battery that is IN the tractor right now is fully charged, then connect the black booster cable to the negative battery post and the other end to a clean spot in the Kohler engine. Connect the red booster cable to the positive battery post. Then connect the small jumper wire to the plus post on the ignition coil and the other end to the positive battery post. Take the loose end of the red booster cable and touch it to the post on the Starter/Generator where the heavy wire is connected to.

The engine should now spin over and it should start and run if there are no problems with fuel or spark.

The time has come for you to completely rewire that tractor. It is not a big job. I can provide you with a wiring diagram and other advice should you decide to go ahead. Send me an e-mail.

. In the morning I will try this and get back to you. Thanks a lot for the reply it is appreciated.

 

[Xfaxman]

Hi-This is the first time I have posted a question. I have an old case 220 Ser. No. 9629639 which I believe is a 1969 model and it has a snow blade on which I use to plow snow. Recently I left it outside one night and it rained hard all night . Since then I have been unable to start it. When I turn the key I get nothing. I have it inside now so it has been dry for a few weeks. The wiring is a mess from the previous owner and the ignition is a jumble of wires and some wires have wire nuts and they go nowhere. I cant complain because I got it for free along with the deck and a snow blade. It always started before it got wet in the rain, but now, nothing. I am fairly handy doing simple mechanical stuff but when it comes to wiring I'm not too knowlegeable. I have a volt meter but really don't know how to use it. ---------------------------

I really like the Case garden tractors and can see why so many people love to rebuild and restore them. This site is awesome for the information you can find and the members are so willing to share their knowledge on the repair and restoration of tractors.

This site might help: Multimeter Tutorial

 

[sportsman57]

Hydriv-Thanks for the tip on starting up my case 220. It started up quickly and ran smooth so I guess its time to re-wire it. Since it started up does that mean my ignition switch is OK and its a wiring problem? I saw a post before where it explained how to re-wire a Case garden tractor. Mine is a 1969 I believe. I bought some wire to re-wire it and I have 5 different colors so I can match most of the colors. Most of the wiring on it now are black and red with one yellow so its a mess. Any help and tips you can give me would be appreciated.

 

[sportsman57]

Xfaxman- Thanks for the tip. I down loaded it and read it later tonight. I have a meter but only know how to check a battery as the instructions that came with the meter are not to clear.

 

[hydriv]

The test that you performed told you that the engine runs, that the points, condenser, coil, coil wire and spark plug are all functioning and that there is apparently nothing wrong with your fuel system.

The true condition of your ignition switch, starter solenoid and charging system are still in doubt. However, you should now begin by removing all the existing wiring and discarding it. Send an e-mail to hydriv@gmail.com and I will send you the wiring diagram. Since the existing wiring has been badly butchered, it is unwise to try and save any of it. Once the rewiring has taken place, any additional issues can be resolved.

Learn how to use the OHMS scale on your multimeter because you can check continuity on various devices. Continuity means that the item being tested allows current to pass through it.

For example, the Starter Solenoid has two small terminals on the side of it. If you have the correct solenoid and it is in working order, then placing the test leads on the two small terminals should show that it has continuity.

You will need some crimp-on terminals and a proper crimping tool. I like to improve on that by using a soldering gun to solder the wire to the crimped on terminal. Doing so prevents the wire from ever coming out of the terminal and it also helps to stop corrosion. Use RING style terminals as much as possible instead of SPADE terminals. You should have a red GEN light. The voltage regulator should have three terminals on one side and one terminal underneath it. Do not connect your battery until you have completed all the wiring and double-checked your work.

 

[hydriv]

e-mail has been sent to sportsman57 with the wiring diagram enclosed.