MarEng
Silver Member
Did my first 50 this weekend on my Dad's 3510. Just a few quick things of note.
Oil Change - Wheels hard left and FEL full up make filter access and refilling a lot easier. I discovered the FEL portion of this advice after the crankcase was drained.
Front Axle - Keep the FEL full up - makes the refill easier. Make sure it is full up or the bucket tends to dent the head when you stand up under it.
Rear Axle - We have the back hoe with the sub frame. Makes access to anything aft of the operator's seat a real pain and the oil change nearly impossible. I ended up using the stabilizers to raise the back of the tractor to give enough room to crawl under. BLOCK THE TIRES before crawling under - I leaked down enough I had to drive off the blocks after the oil change. I only have a two gallon drain pan. Rather than swapping buckets I found it easy to reinsert the plug as the drain pan filled. I did clean the strainer while the axle was empty. Due to the sub frame it was hard to get the screen back in clean. Wrapped it in a towel for the trip back in and then pulled the towel afterwards. Slow and steady refill kept the air bubbles and glugs to a minimum. Read in another post about a hose connection to crack. Will try this next time.
Filter cross references found on this site were spot on. Local auto parts store had both, saving a morning of driving to the dealer and back.
Oil Change - Wheels hard left and FEL full up make filter access and refilling a lot easier. I discovered the FEL portion of this advice after the crankcase was drained.
Front Axle - Keep the FEL full up - makes the refill easier. Make sure it is full up or the bucket tends to dent the head when you stand up under it.
Rear Axle - We have the back hoe with the sub frame. Makes access to anything aft of the operator's seat a real pain and the oil change nearly impossible. I ended up using the stabilizers to raise the back of the tractor to give enough room to crawl under. BLOCK THE TIRES before crawling under - I leaked down enough I had to drive off the blocks after the oil change. I only have a two gallon drain pan. Rather than swapping buckets I found it easy to reinsert the plug as the drain pan filled. I did clean the strainer while the axle was empty. Due to the sub frame it was hard to get the screen back in clean. Wrapped it in a towel for the trip back in and then pulled the towel afterwards. Slow and steady refill kept the air bubbles and glugs to a minimum. Read in another post about a hose connection to crack. Will try this next time.
Filter cross references found on this site were spot on. Local auto parts store had both, saving a morning of driving to the dealer and back.
