Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw

[dfkrug]

If you consider your self and experienced saw user, your doing yourself an injustice by using new "safety chain" The older full chisel (now called pro chain) cuts is SO much quicker. I can easily out cut my friends saw 2:1 with my 039 and full chisel chain.

Steve, I imagine that that pro chain has lower anti-kickback nubs. Have you
tried grinding those down on conventional chains so your chain is more
aggressive? I see that some chain has cutting teeth on every other link and
some chain has less cutters. That would make a difference, too.

 

[schmism]

Steve, I imagine that that pro chain has lower anti-kickback nubs. Have you
tried grinding those down on conventional chains so your chain is more
aggressive? I see that some chain has cutting teeth on every other link and
some chain has less cutters. That would make a difference, too.

yes i keep my kickback nubs (those flat barb in front of the tooth) in spec. and i will have to confess my buddy was useing his "large" poulon that came stock with every other tooth missing on the chain. (you know its really a powerful saw if you remove every other tooth )

But even my own saw, i have an old full chisel chain and a new "box" round corner "safety chain" the safety chain still cuts considerably slower. The amount of force that goes into cutting is significantly different also. The difference between really having to set a bar tooth and put effort into rolling the saw into a log , vs letting the saw weight and sharp chain do the work for me.

Chaps, dont forget the chaps!

 

[dfkrug]

But even my own saw, i have an old full chisel chain and a new "box" round corner "safety chain" the safety chain still cuts considerably slower. The amount of force that goes into cutting is significantly different also. The difference between really having to set a bar tooth and put effort into rolling the saw into a log , vs letting the saw weight and sharp chain do the work for me.

So the "safety chain" has the rounded cutters and "full chisel" are the
squared off cutters?

 

[Waynebro]

I recently purchased a 455 Rancher (not the 455e) wanting a step up from my little Echo 18 and being as its the largest model sold at the local Harry Homeowners superstore. Being times are hard these days I first tried the Poulan Pro 20. It was a nice saw and I felt cut better than my Echo 18 inch through the big hardwood oaks that dot my lot, but the plastic toolless chain tensioner seemed cheap to me, and turned out I was right. At least in my case. I had used it twice to fell and buck some midsized 20 inch oaks when on the third use the tooless chain tensioner snapped when I accidently got the bar pinched slightly. Once it was broke the chain would no longer tighten. Turns out its a somewhat common complaint with these saws, even though Stihl apparently pioneered the technology. So when I went first to look at the Husky 455 Rancher I was shown a 455e, with the toolless chain tensioner and I said, "oh no, not again". Fortunately I found buried in the back a 455, which still uses the standard bar nut and tool method, which to me seemed to always work well, so I went ahead and snatched it up.

So far I love this saw. I'm disappointed that a saw this heavy won't take a 24 inch bar per manufacturers recommendations but I am not disappointed with this saw. I paid 379 for mine, and for the money it seems to be just a really great midsized saw. Starting it is incredibly easy, hot or cold. I thought my little Echo started easy but this thing is a one pull wonder. It's a little heavy for it's bar size but I find the weight a plus as it makes you pay attention to what you're doing more than a lighter saw, which I tend to get too relaxed with. What I really love about this saw is the cutting power. I didn't think going from a 46cc engine (on my Poulan Pro 20) to a 55cc engine would be a huge difference but it was. It effortlessly breezed through all the larger hardwood trunks I threw at it, and I do mean breezed through. It tooks mere seconds to go through 20 inch and larger oaks and just seemed to run better than my little Echo (which is a good saw). So far its been a great saw, so based on the other reviews in here I'd say you're going to be very happy with it.

As for the 455e with the Toolless Chain Tensioner I can't say whether or not it works ok, but I'm sure it's probably fine, but for me the 455 with the standard chain tensioner was a great buy.

 

[dfkrug]

I'm disappointed that a saw this heavy won't take a 24 inch bar per manufacturers recommendations but I am not disappointed with this saw.

First I heard of that. I specified the 24" bar w/ 2 chains when I bought
mine from a dealer on Ebay who sold tons of saws. I have many logs
that are as much as 36" in diameter, and I much prefer single-cutting the
smaller 18-24" logs (mostly oak, bay, maple). A 20-in bar wasn't cuttin'
it, so-to-speak.

The 455 Rancher (no "e") has worked perfectly. Uses lots of fuel, however.

I think I will try grinding down the anti-kickback nubs on the chain to make
it cut even faster.

 

[Waynebro]

First I heard of that. I specified the 24" bar w/ 2 chains when I bought
mine from a dealer on Ebay who sold tons of saws. I have many logs
that are as much as 36" in diameter, and I much prefer single-cutting the
smaller 18-24" logs (mostly oak, bay, maple). A 20-in bar wasn't cuttin'
it, so-to-speak.

The 455 Rancher (no "e") has worked perfectly. Uses lots of fuel, however.

I think I will try grinding down the anti-kickback nubs on the chain to make
it cut even faster.

Interesting. If you check out Husky's website and documentation the 20 inch bar is the max that saw's supposed to take, which may explain your accelerated fuel consumption. Engine has to work harder to turn the larger chain. Of course a dealer will tell you (and sell you) anything, but the manufacturer is where you'd usually want to go for the actual specs and recommendations. But if you're saying it works for you perhaps I'll have to throw a 24 on it and see how it runs. I'm going to call Husky and see what they say but if they say its ok then you just may have saved me 700 bucks for a bigger saw. Thanks.

 

[Egon]

If in doubt put on the longer bar and use a chain with less cutters or whatever the thingy's that do the cutting are called.

 

[Waynebro]

If in doubt put on the longer bar and use a chain with less cutters or whatever the thingy's that do the cutting are called.

Well I'll have to disagree with that recommendation. A larger bar means a slower turning chain and a bar bigger than the engine was designed for can mean a poor and even dangerous cut. Kickback occurs much more frequently when the chain is not turning at optimal speed. For a good clean cut you want a faster cut, so a smaller bar means a faster cut hence a better, safer cut.

 

[Egon]

Thats why you use a chain with fewer cutters. It's also gona take longer to cut.

 

[Waynebro]

Fewer cutters at a slower speed means less cutting surface in contact with the wood. Less cutters may increase the chains speed slightly (due to less friction and being lighter) but it will not increase it sufficiently for an improperly sized bar. Sorry, still disagree with your recommendation.

Right bar for the right motor means the right cutting speed and the right cutting speed is crucial to;

A. Safety (less chance of kickback)

B. Performance

C. Increased life of your chainsaw (due to not overtaxing the engine)