Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw

   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #81  
I have figure out why so many people have problems starting the 455 rancher.

In the few years I have had my 455 Rancher, it has been a dream. Very
predictable start, and quite easy if you use the compression release.

I just got my first exposure to the Stihl MS290 Farm Boss, which is
the direct competitor. I found it harder to start, prob because it does
NOT have a comp release. And, to choke it, you must have the throttle
locked open. Oh, it was $100 more, too, back when I bought my Rancher.
 
   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #82  
whats the real difference between 455 and 455e ? should I stay away from e's?
 
   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #83  
I don't have a lot of chainsaw experience, so when I needed advice I came here. After I'd finished my research I bought the 455 Rancher, with the 20" bar. So far, I'm thrilled with it.

The first job was to drop an 80' Florida live oak (thoroughly dead). It had 3 trunks, about 26", 22" and 18" in diameter. I dropped the tree in the evening when there was no wind, and then spent about 5h the next day cutting it all up. The brand new Rancher worked hard and never missed a beat. We'll see how it does over the long haul.
 
   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #84  
A friend of my father and I has one and i have tried it and I really liked it. He said he was happy with it. Although personally I only own a small stihl 009 and a bunch of pro saws from the 1950s.:D
 
   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #85  
whats the real difference between 455 and 455e ? should I stay away from e's?

That is an environmentally friendly saw. It would have the green caps on it. They have a catalytic type muffler on them and they burn leaner. They also cost a bit more. I cannot answer your last question but I'm sure you can.
 
   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #86  
additional informationThis is not so much a reply as a question on the 455 versus the 55 rancher. I have a 55 and it will not start. It needs a new bar and possibly a new ignition module (this module at a gap of about 0015 to 0.020 does give spark (visible with plug removed) but only with a real hard pull of the rope and a new plug in place) and maybe needs more than that. I'm not sure I am getting spark when the plug is in and compression is so good that it is real tough to get any speed on the rotation. Is the 455 as good as the 55 and might I be better off just starting with a new 455 rather than chansing repair of the 55. Atr least it has an unload on compression while starting.
I looked thru the exhaust port and the cylinder wall has a few very fine vertical lines but nothing I would call scoring. No marks on the exhaust port side of the piston. I'm just worn out pulling the starter rope with no results. Even when new, this 55 was real tough to turn over. Once running it was fine as long as you had enough energy left to do anything else after starting it. Any suggestions?
 
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   / Husqvarna 455 Rancher Chainsaw #87  
additional informationThis is not so much a reply as a question on the 455 versus the 55 rancher. I have a 55 and it will not start. It needs a new bar and possibly a new ignition module (this module at a gap of about 0015 to 0.020 does give spark (visible with plug removed) but only with a real hard pull of the rope and a new plug in place) and maybe needs more than that. I'm not sure I am getting spark when the plug is in and compression is so good that it is real tough to get any speed on the rotation. Is the 455 as good as the 55 and might I be better off just starting with a new 455 rather than chansing repair of the 55. Atr least it has an unload on compression while starting.
I looked thru the exhaust port and the cylinder wall has a few very fine vertical lines but nothing I would call scoring. No marks on the exhaust port side of the piston. I'm just worn out pulling the starter rope with no results. Even when new, this 55 was real tough to turn over. Once running it was fine as long as you had enough energy left to do anything else after starting it. Any suggestions?

Well, beyond the possible starter module, you need to tend to the fuel line, tank and filters. These saws were temperamental to start as they had high compression with no compression let off. As a result, they will always be hard to start. I had one that if you choked it with one pull and left it that way, it would hardly start at all. One pull and the choke released was a much better way to start it but every saw is different. If you have the manual, read it on the starting procedure and follow it to a tee. If you are not going to do the work yourself, this saw could cost you anywhere between $60 to $100 to get going depending on the shop. I would say the 455 is certainly commensurate. The modern saws are easier to start but they run leaner for EPA reasons. If you remove the hi/lo screw caps, you void the warranty but that would be the first thing I'd do to richen the saw up. I also would not run this saw with a 20" bar . I mean it could be done but I think a better running package would be to run it with a .325 chain and an 18" bar. This would be a good all around home owners saw in my mind but a bit heavy for its power output. For around the same money, I like the 353 better as it is basically a tamed down 346 and is easier to wield for the average home owner and it has a magnesium case. Cuts a bit faster in 4" to 6" branch diameter but has a bit less grunt for the 14" and up tree thickness than the 455. Depends what your plans for the saw are. As a side note, I would not consider the 55 as a poor starter. Just tempermental. They were very good saws. At the first sign of engine tumble over, the choke has to be released. Many home owners would be unaware of this fact with this saw and I think that is where it got a reputation as a cantankerous starter as well as the difficulty of pulling on a high compression motor
 
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