Anyone ever rebuild an old craftsman saw?

[Nitro-Fish]

Can you post a picture of the saw?

Yes, most people don't like a top handle saw just because they are not as easy to handle as the conventional (rear & front combo) saws on the market. The top handle saws see most of their use with operators in a bucket (or climbing) and operating the saw with one hand and the balance/stability of the saw is set-up based on this.

I was asking about the chain because of the many variations of chain pitch/gauge combinations available & if the sprocket, bar & chain are not matched properly it will bind the saw.

I will try to check my XXV tomorrow to see if it has a clutch drum bearing that may be causing your seize.

As I mentioned before, these are tough little saws, they have a complete crankcase & P/C setup; very reliable. I would think if you don't have a scored P&C (from leaning it out) you may have a clutch drum (bearing or bushing) problem or perhaps a clutch that is coming apart.

Another thing to check would be if you are running a sprocket nose bar, is it turning freely?

I have also seen these saws that have been run with the spur sprocket (6 tooth btw) in such bad shape (from wear) that the chain will ride out of the groove and onto the high side of the sprocket and kill the saw because the chain gets so tight.

 

[JimRB]

I have one of those. That Craftsman/Poulan I found in a half dozen pieces. Pulled a nut (things that grow on trees) out of the reed valve (I think it is called a reed valve) and put it back together. Worked fine for me except for the sometimes hard to start and the blade that would spin. Hard to get it to start and idle slow. When they run right they run right but mine wasn't one day. I had a fit and got a small Stihl MS210. At least the Stihl does not spin the blade when idling and it it has a chain brake. Months later I played with the Craftsman and go it running again. Stihl starts much quicker.

 

[Tenn_Blue]

As requested, here are some pictures of the "dearly departed".

On the left side (as you would be holding it) it says 2.3/14" then "solid state Craftsman"

Model number and serial number are on the top below the grip, next to the gas cap. Model number 358.353660 Serial #20513062

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Tenn_Blue, the saw you have is the same a the Poulan microXXV; plenty of parts still available for these. Do a search (internet, not necessarily TBN) on the poulan model, you should find plenty of info; you may want to try jacks small enginges, they do have a website, you will also be able to see all of the moving parts when you use their site.

 

[Tenn_Blue]

Thanks Nitro!

Went to sears parts site last night and they had a diagram - still sell some parts (according to the web site...).

Looks like there is a bushing that the clutch cone rides on (not sure if my terminology is correct). Its a poor, low res diagram, cant tell what the bushing rides on - would it be the crankshaft or a seperate jackshaft?

Guessing that wear/play in the bushing/crankshaft or bushing/clutch cone would account for the chatter noise? Or could even be a dragging clutch plate (broken plate/spring/etc). But the chatter happens without the crank/piston moving - makes me think it is in the clutch assembly....

I might set it aside and take it apart sometime and see if I can fix it. I have some bushing stock that I could machine up to fit (having a lathe is so convenient), depending on price/availability of the parts I need.

Is there a special tool I need to take the clutch off?

Still gonna buy a replacement saw for now - don't have time to mess with this one now, but might be fun to tinker with on a slow day.

 

[Jim Thompson]

There is a tool for removing the clutch that makes the job a lot easier, but, I've used a hammer and a brass drift to remove them. Remember that it has left hand threads and turns clockwise to remove. Also, remove the spark plug and use a piece of rope fed into the cylinder as a piston stop.

The sprocket uses a needle bearing to spin on the shaft. The bearing is normally supplied with a new sprocket. Finding parts should not be a problem.

Jim

 

[Travelover]

I went through what you are experiencing last year with my faithful Homelite XL. I replaced the starter pulley for $5, then the chain for $20. Then the roller tip needle bearings failed. Clutch drive teeth were getting worn. I realized that I had paid $99 for it in 1989 and that on a cost per year basis, it didn't owe me a dime.

Long story short, I put the Homelite on Craigslist for $10 clearly stating that it needed a new bar. It sold right away and I bought a Stihl MS 180 for $200. The Stihl has a chain brake and cuts much faster than the old Homelite. I figure it will last me the rest of my life, where as the Homelite was going to need on going repairs and parts were getting scarce.

 

[Tenn_Blue]

Thanks for the info everybody!

I understand that financially, fixing the saw does not make sense. I do plan to get a replacement, - a newer, updated slightly more powerful one with chain brake. I have another thread running regarding that selection and purchase.

As I have said, the saw was free in the first place - only thing I have spent on it is for chains, filter and normal maintenance items.

I am a tinkerer and enjoy fixing things and figuring out how they work. I may tear this one apart in my spare time and see if I can fix it - if it comes to a major money expenditure, no, but if I could fix it for a few bucks, it is worth the "therapy value" to me.

Also, down the line there MAY Be a saw that IS worth rebuilding (if needed) and if I can "practice" on this throw-away, I better understand how to cope with it. Thats how I learned a lot of what I know - started tearing old mowers and stuff apart as a boy and never looked back.

So, yea, i know it may not make sense, but that has never stopped me before!!! :laughing: