Compare chainsaws without mentioning the chain?

[CobyRupert]

Is it just me, or does anyone else roll their eyes when they read chainsaw comparisons and they say: "Well model X cuts faster than model Y", or brand X doesn't bog down as much as brand Y" with no mention of what chain they're using or how sharpened? Depending on what type of chain style (chisel, semi-chisel), the chain pitch (.325, 3/8" etc), safety chain, or how much the rakers have been filed down, who sharpened it, how, when, the performance of a chainsaw will vary like night and day. So unless all things are exactly equal (identical new chains out of the box?) seems like most comparisons are just conjecture. Sure, file down those rakers and any saw might lug a bit while it's quickly making sawdust the size of matchsticks, or hit a clump of mud/gravel stuck on the log and the same saw will now rev with all the power in the world (but just doesn't cut as fast). And a .325" pitch chain compared to a 3/8".....

 

[Bluegill2]

Yep, I agree!

 

[s219]

I remember testing new saws with a buddy, where one was noticeably stronger making traditional cuts. It was about 10cc bigger, so no surprise. But we tried noodling some rounds (lengthwise cut with the grain) and the smaller wimpier saw was way way faster, by a long shot. It was running 3/8" picco chain compared to 0.325 wide on the other one. That's a great example of how different chains really have different characteristics. Also factoring in could be things like how each saw clears chips, clutch cover size, etc. Lot of variables.

 

[LD1]

I guess it dont bother me much. Cause chain pitch and style can always be changed. And usually the "comparison" talks I am involved in are typically larger pro model saws. Those dont use .325 or safety crap.

Now if someone comes on and makes a comment like "my husky 450 is WAY faster than my ms441", then yea, I may question the chain.

 

[MBTRAC]

Chainsaw comparisons, just like vehicle & most "expert" comparisons, are all too generic & don't relate necessarily to the conditions of your individual environment - if I can't "test drive" under close to my home conditions or know someone with local "ownership" experience I am increasing sceptical about any product claims...............look how Hyundai & Kia understated their fuel consumption & are now being prosecuted ....& chainsaw manufacturers like many other outdoor/farm/domestic products have nowhere near the same statutory obligations which these & other vehicle manufacturers ignore.....

 

[MacLawn]

That's the truth - there are a lot of variables here. I just want something that is reliable, I can change the chain or bar if needed.

 

[2458n]

Simply put if you buy a chainsaw from a "box" store you need to get a full chisel chain ASAP. Unless you need alot of practice running a saw.

 

[tessiers]

If you buy your saws from a box store you don't need a full chisel chain.

 

[ptexer]

I agree chains and how they are sharpened make all the difference in the world. I recently cut with two different saws one was sharpened at a 35 degree angle and mine at a 30 degree. I thought both cut well. It seemed like the 35 degree wanted to grab and throw wood more than the 30. Both were sharpened by owners. Is this my imagination difference in sharpening or do 35 degree sharpened chains grab and throw wood at you more than 30 degree sharpened chains.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

ptexer it still can vary by how well the pitch is sharpened whether at 30 or 35 degrees. I sharpen most of mine at 35.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/27377.htm