are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain?

[LD1]

Have an attachment from Oregon that fits on the bar. Set the 2 angles based on the chain type and manually sharpen each tooth with the proper size file. With the attachment, the angles don't vary as it does just free-handing the sharpening. Takes maybe a minute to setup on the bar and does a real nice job. Gives you a chance to inspect each tooth too to see if there are any chips or problems that need corrected. Seems like most people wait too long to sharpen a chain. Needs sharpened way before you think it does to keep a good saw going. Should only take a few strokes on each tooth most of the time.

I know the attachment you're talking about. I have the same one. Works very slick! Takes a little longer than grinding, but with the fine control you have with a file, I think the chains last longer.

Joe

That would be the granberg style I was talking about. And I think it is just as fast as grining because you dont have to take the chain off the saw.

It only takes me about 5 minutes from start to finish to do my 24" bar. It would take about 2 minutes to remove the chain, and about 2 to put it back on. So that only leaves a minute or so to do ALL of the sharpening with the grinder:confused3:

 

[Deere Dude]

I bought this one from Timber Tuff
It looks like the same knockoff many sell. It was on sale for maybe $100 at the local Orscheln store. Now if I hit a rock, which is common in the Ozarks, not a big deal. I've taken some might as well throw away chains and brought them back to life.

I used a HF grinder for years then went with the Timber Tuff grinder mentioned here and love it. It has nowhere the play the HF grinder does, but it's more expensive to. What works for me is to have half a dozen sharp chains and when I get most of them dull I just pull up a chair by the sharpener and zip through them. Some people are adamant hand sharpeners and they must be good at it. I sure am not. Me, I don't work with loggers to help get the hand technique down correctly, so the machine is it for me and does a great job every time.

 

[MarkV]

Hand sharpening works well for me. I think the best lesson I learned was from a tree guy who has been in the business for many years. His advice was to never let your chain get too dull. When you see saw dust the chain is getting hot, when it gets too hot the metal looses it temper and will never hold a cutting edge well after that. It took me awhile to stop and spend 5 minutes running a file over the chain rather than make that one more cut but my chains last much longer now.

MarkV

 

[1bush2hog]

Hand sharpening works well for me. I think the best lesson I learned was from a tree guy who has been in the business for many years. His advice was to never let your chain get too dull. When you see saw dust the chain is getting hot, when it gets too hot the metal looses it temper and will never hold a cutting edge well after that. It took me awhile to stop and spend 5 minutes running a file over the chain rather than make that one more cut but my chains last much longer now.

MarkV

Good Advice right there.

Stihl sells a file handle that has the correct sharpening angle built in to it and when you free hand you keep the angle on the handle parallel to the bar when you are filing. So simple and works great.

Also, Don't forget to check the rakers and file them down when necessary

 

[Bird]

Good Advice right there.

Stihl sells a file handle that has the correct sharpening angle built in to it and when you free hand you keep the angle on the handle parallel to the bar when you are filing. So simple and works great.

Also, Don't forget to check the rakers and file them down when necessary

I've not seen one of their "handles", but it looks like they have several here but I don't understand how they work.

 

[Furu]

Found out years back that lots of professional folk touch up their chains when they refuel. Started using that technique about 7 years ago and chains last much longer and cut better. Technique may not be for everyone but it has reduced my downtime sharpening (seems counter productive but is not)

 

[JD 4520]

Found out years back that lots of professional folk touch up their chains when they refuel. Started using that technique about 7 years ago and chains last much longer and cut better. Technique may not be for everyone but it has reduced my downtime sharpening (seems counter productive but is not)

Same for me. Best method and probably the reason why the professionals do it this way.

BTW, Furu, what is that orange on the back of your tractor in the picture?

 

[Furu]

Same for me. Best method and probably the reason why the professionals do it this way.

BTW, Furu, what is that orange on the back of your tractor in the picture?

Salsco orange. Don't come in other colors and I am not into painting for pride. Salsco make the best chipper (IMO) out there for a 3 point hook up. They also make a great tow behind with motor if that is your thing. The thing is a brute. It will take anything that is thrown at it, smile and say feed me more. 10 inch capability, not that I don't think anything over 3-4 is firewood but it allows rotten boles up to and sometimes over 10" (don't ask) and limbs to go down the hatch without slowing down. A great unit and I can not praise it enough. The only implement I have that is green is my Woods BH. I think Deere makes a great tractor unit but most of my implements are not Deere as they are not as heavy duty as I want. Actually my Deere dealer is the one that steered me towards the heavier duty stuff.

 

[JD 4520]

Salsco orange. Don't come in other colors and I am not into painting for pride. Salsco make the best chipper (IMO) out there for a 3 point hook up. They also make a great tow behind with motor if that is your thing. The thing is a brute. It will take anything that is thrown at it, smile and say feed me more. 10 inch capability, not that I don't think anything over 3-4 is firewood but it allows rotten boles up to and sometimes over 10" (don't ask) and limbs to go down the hatch without slowing down. A great unit and I can not praise it enough. The only implement I have that is green is my Woods BH. I think Deere makes a great tractor unit but most of my implements are not Deere as they are not as heavy duty as I want. Actually my Deere dealer is the one that steered me towards the heavier duty stuff.

I wasn't really jiving you about color rather just trying to figure out if it was really what I thought it was. It looks like a brute as you describe. I am planning on renting a regular tow behind to do some clean up of lots of brush I have piled up from a clearing. Looks great.

 

[Furu]

I wasn't really jiving you about color rather just trying to figure out if it was really what I thought it was. It looks like a brute as you describe. I am planning on renting a regular tow behind to do some clean up of lots of brush I have piled up from a clearing. Looks great.

If you have enough property that it would be an on going thing look at purchasing one. If it is just occasional then renting is the better way. I do know a guy several years back that rented and the blades were so dull they friction burned more than cut/chipped the stuff. You could smell it (burnt smell) from a good distance. It took him hours to do a very small (IMO) job. Ensure where you rent has sharp blades on it before you leave the place.

But now I am hi jacking the thread elsewhere so I will stop.