are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain?

   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #31  
I've done just a very little bit of touching up chain saw chains with a file, but used to take mine to a pro to sharpen them. Of course one dealer actually returned them worse than when I took them to him. And then a guy in the sharpening business only (chain saws, hand saws, knives, scissors, pizza cutters, etc.) showed me what that dealer did wrong. But I'm going to very seldom need to sharpen one anymore and I'm wondering whether anyone has any experience and anything good or bad to say about the A679-02 Dremel Attachment. Seems that it ought to do the job quickly and easily, but how well would it do?


Bird I've been using the dremel for years to sharpen my saws, mostly when they hit that hidden rock/dirt. I can out sharpen any big grinder wheel sharpener any day with the little dremel. Most of the time I sharpen by hand, the dremel comes out only when the chain gets smacked bad.
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #32  
I bought an Oregon 120 volt bench chain sharpener back in 2007. I had used attachments and free hand before that.
Hands down the bench sharpener is by far the fastest, easiest and most accure way to go PERIOD.
You do not " have" to remove too much material or make all the teeth the same length.
I "touch-up" my blades every time i return from the woods so they are razor sharp.
I have (2) 20" chains for my MS361 that i purchased with the saw in 2007.
I have (2) 14" chains for my MS200T that i purchased with the saw in 2006.
All four chains are about 1/2 worn right now. I usually cut 12 face cord per year as fire wood and down lots of poplar that i leave in the woods every year.
Nothing like a saw thats slices thru wood like a hot knife thru butter.
they are a bit pricy but work great.
I sharpen chains for a tree trimming crew a few times every years to even out their chains.
Tom
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #33  
Try not to over think things :) Dremel bits (from agri supply) are all I use. There are only two sizes. I am in the firewood business part time doing about 50 cords a year. I use it daily on four saws.
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #34  
I've been cutting and selling wood since 1976 cutting a minimum of 10 cord per year (real cords, not those fake "face cords). Use a clamp-on file guide. Quick, easy and don't have to pay attention to angles. At mosst 10 minutes per 20" loop and that includes mounting the saw in the leg vice, mounting and setting up the guide, changing files as needed, etc.

One primary aid to hand filing whether free hand or with a guide - a SHARP file - I buy files by the dozen and g through a box about every 2 years. Hard to describe in writing but the last finish stroke of a sharp file on a tooth will have a distinct, smooth, feel, almost 'whistle'.

The problem with paying a shop to sharpen is you don't know who the ooperator is. A ham handed one on a grinder can ruin a chain by getting the teeth too hot - impossible to file after that. I quit going to one dealer for doing that. I take a badly rocked out chain to be ground if it will take a lot of filing to get it back in shape.

When a file starts to chatter, grab or needs more force to cut, it is time to pitch it.

Harry K
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #35  
I've not seen one of their "handles", but it looks like they have several here but I don't understand how they work.

Bird, I use the deluxe handle. The angle on either side of the black top portion of the handle is what you keep parallel with the bar when you are pushing the file through the tooth. Takes a couple of times going slow to get the hang of it, but once you do, it becomes really fast and easy to sharpen the chain. Definitely alot quicker and efficient for me than fooling with all the file guides.

I never have my chains sharpened on a machine.
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #36  
I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file (satisfactory anyways). It only took me about 10 years to get the hang of it. Now the saw doesn't cut at an angle 30 degrees - that use to make it hard when cutting a 36" diameter log with a 18" bar and trying to get the cuts from two sides to meet. Grrr! I do cheat and use a file guide. I usually sharpen about every 2 tanks of gas (sometimes 4-5 tanks, sometimes every tank, depending on conditions, soil, etc..) cause no matter how carefull, there's always some dirt or the dang ground seems to jump up and hit the saw when I'm "bucking" (or "limbing" as I always called it). When sharpening I try to match the angles recommended on the chain box, but I think being consistant with the angle from one tooth to another is more important than being correct. Also apply the same pressure when sharpening right handed as left (which is tricky). It's also REALLY important that the file is the exact size that recommended for the chain (don't ask how I know).
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #37  
Harbor Freight had their electric sharpener on sale for $24.99 so I ordered it. Got it yesterday and this morning I set it up in about 15 minutes. I had to find a mounting plate to hold it in place so I used a large square of plywood that I had with an angle iron frame so it is sturdy. Directions were simple to read and I set up a couple of spare chains to put an edge on. They both had been in the dirt and had hit some wire when cleaning up a fenceline so they needed some heavy sharpening. It took me about 10 minutes max on each of the 18" barsize chains. I had an opportunity to check them out this afternoon and they cut great, almost as good as a new one and this was my first time using the grinder. I think I can do a much better job on the next sharpening as practice always makes you better even if not perfect.
It was well worth the money even with shipping charges and tax it was only about $10 higher than a new chain.
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #38  
Harbor Freight had their electric sharpener on sale for $24.99 so I ordered it. Got it yesterday and this morning I set it up in about 15 minutes. I had to find a mounting plate to hold it in place .........

I've got the same sharpener and am happy with it. I screwed the base to a section of 2x4 that I clamp into my vice for a quick mount. When I first got it, I went through and shimmed all the pivot points with thin washers.
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #39  
Harbor Freight had their electric sharpener on sale for $24.99 so I ordered it. Got it yesterday and this morning I set it up in about 15 minutes. I had to find a mounting plate to hold it in place so I used a large square of plywood that I had with an angle iron frame so it is sturdy. Directions were simple to read and I set up a couple of spare chains to put an edge on. They both had been in the dirt and had hit some wire when cleaning up a fenceline so they needed some heavy sharpening. It took me about 10 minutes max on each of the 18" barsize chains. I had an opportunity to check them out this afternoon and they cut great, almost as good as a new one and this was my first time using the grinder. I think I can do a much better job on the next sharpening as practice always makes you better even if not perfect.
It was well worth the money even with shipping charges and tax it was only about $10 higher than a new chain.
i see them at the store all the time but never got one. ill have to get one now. and to those complaining about taking the blade off, i suggest buying a stihl chainsaw. takes all of about 15 seconds to remove the blade
 
   / are automatic chain sharpeners too hard on a chain? #40  
I use the little 12v Horrible Fright Dremel clone. I have a little lawn tractor battery I use to power it. I can go into the woods with it and sharpen a chain very quickly on a stump. I bought the 12v bar mounted sharpener from Northern Freight. The reviews on it were great. I found it a little awkward to set up, so I went back to the little one. The Stihl chains have a witness mark on the rear of the tooth which is the angle to use for sharpening, so it's pretty easy to eyeball it. I used to use a real Dremel with the little guide they sold with it. The guide is nice, but not really necessary if the chains themselves have guide marks on them. The HF bits are garbage. Get the Dremel or Oregon brand sharpening stones from the hardware store.
 
 
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