Cut wandering.

[CHDinCT]

Two weeks ago it was on sale for $24.99 + 6.99 shipping. No coupon required at that time. I get regular emails on sale items so I read them and occassionally I find a good deal on something I can actually use.

So do I, but I wasn't shopping for a chain sharpener then so I guess it didn't register. Thanks

 

[Deere Dude]

Depending on someones budget, I would not get a HF brand cheapy sharpener. I used on and still have it and have used it to possibly sharpen 30 chains and it worked sorta okay, but I wasn't real happy with it.

One day some Timber Tuff sharpeners were on sale for $100 and sprung for one of them. There is a huge difference in sharpening between the two. They have a lot more power, the whole thing is metal and the motor and parts have a lot less sloppiness in them. I know it is just a sharpener and if you sharpen 1 chain a year it may be alright but it sure is nicer with a more heavy duty sharpened with some power behind it.

 

[Bluegill2]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

 

[cqaigy2]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

And as someone said to me, you don't sharpen the chain.
And i agree, with the file comment as well.

 

[retiredmgn]

I don't get it. I've never owned a 'chain shapener'. Pehaps it's a handy thing to have. I have a pair of gloves and two files. I run 2 or 3 strokes with the file every tank of gas. The angle to maintain on all modern chains is milled into the chain as a refference mark. If you're putting out sawdust you take two or three strokes on the rakers. If this doesn't work for you either your files are dull or you need to educate because you are doing something incorrectly. Ain't rocket science. In the field you should be able to recover dull and keep moving.

 

[Gary Fowler]

A file MIGHT be good way to sharpen in the field, but for me, while you are sharpening with a $8 file, I will just change out the chain and be back cutting wood. Back in the shop, I can sharpen a super dull chain that has hit wire, rocks etc in the same time it takes you to "hit it a lick or two per tooth" to bring back the edge. I have a tool box drawer full of files of different diameters, gauges, etc and none of them are as easy as using the electric chain sharpener and it guarantees the same angle on every tooth. I am not using it everyday in a chainsaw sharpening business so why should I spend 5 times as much to get the "more powerful" one when all it needs is a light touch to work anyway. I dont find that there is "slop" in the plastic frame either on the HF unit, at least now when new and for my needs it works fine. If it gets wear in it, I can buy 5 of them for $100 and for darned sure I am not going to wear out one much less 5 as I dont cut wood for a living either.

 

[jymbee]

A file MIGHT be good way to sharpen in the field, but for me, while you are sharpening with a $8 file, I will just change out the chain and be back cutting wood. Back in the shop, I can sharpen a super dull chain that has hit wire, rocks etc in the same time it takes you to "hit it a lick or two per tooth" to bring back the edge.

My thought exactly. Cut wood while the sun shines-- sharpen chains when it rains. :thumbsup:

 

[CHDinCT]

Learn to sharpen saw chain with a file! It is a very good skill to have!

There is no blade on a chainsaw. Just sayin...

Not sure who your post is in reply to, but I touch up my chains manually with a file every few tank-fulls, but get them professionally sharpened to take care of the larger nicks from dirt, rocks, wire, etc.

Also, just to post back that a new chain fixed the cut wandering so I think the old chain was miss-sharpened or it's FUBARed from running it without oil.

And, the HF sharpener just went on sale for $29.99 so I think I'll at least check it out next time I get to a store.

 

[Redbug]

I also touch up my chains every couple tankfuls.

Whenever a kerf wanders to one side while cutting...usually means that the teeth on one side are cutting more wood, (teeth are longer on one side than the other side causing the saw to cut at an angle). That means you need to take your file to the teeth on the side the kerf, (saw bar), is turning towards and file only the teeth on that side. In other words...the teeth on both sides of the bar need to be equal in length when you are done filing.

An electric grinder is hard on chainsaw teeth. You will heat the teeth up and discolor them, changing the hardness or temper. A grinder also tends to take off too much metal and reduces the life of a chain. Just my observations.

 

[LD1]

I also touch up my chains every couple tankfuls.

Whenever a kerf wanders to one side while cutting...usually means that the teeth on one side are cutting more wood, (teeth are longer on one side than the other side causing the saw to cut at an angle). That means you need to take your file to the teeth on the side the kerf, (saw bar), is turning towards and file only the teeth on that side. In other words...the teeth on both sides of the bar need to be equal in length when you are done filing.

An electric grinder is hard on chainsaw teeth. You will heat the teeth up and discolor them, changing the hardness or temper. A grinder also tends to take off too much metal and reduces the life of a chain. Just my observations.

In theory, yes the teeth are supposed to be the same lenght. But it certainly isnt a requirement to cut straight. You can simply adjust the rakers (depth gauges) accordingly.

If I hit a nail, or rock, or something that dulls just one side of the chain, and requires a good bit of meat to be removed to sharpen, I do NOT take that much off the other side as well. I just adjust the rakers accordingly to make both sides take the same amount of wood.

That is partly why I like shapening my own chain. Cause the way it is "supposed" to be done, is to find the worst (smallest) tooth, and make them ALL that small. And IMO, that is a waste of chain life