Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ???

   / Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ??? #111  
Turnkey, I don't think I'm riding the saw, I think I'm getting one side of the chain sharper than the other and it will cut to the right nearly every time. I'll take a lot at the clamp on guide. I usually set the saw in front of me pointed to the right or left to sharpen. I have a neighbor who leans over the saw from the back to sharpen, I couldn't get that to work at all. Reps tell me of a method were you kind of like "hug" the saw to it?

Good analysis. 99% of the time when a saw is cutting crooked, it is caused by either a dull chain or poor sharpening job. I used to have the same problem way back when until I learned a few things.

1. buy your files by the dozne and throw them away when the dull! A sharp file takes away almost all the trouible one has filing.

2. Try this for filing. Of course you need a good vise to do it. Mount the saw upside down. Then you can file both sides of the chain right handed (dunno how it works for lefties). You file one side standing at the end of the bar facing the power head, the othe side standing alongside facing the tip. I've been doing that so long I don't even remember why it doesn't work mounting the saw rightside up.

My set up is a "leg vise" mounted on the table so the end of the bar hangs over the end of the table.

Harry K
 
   / Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ??? #112  
the stihl 044 n 046 are dam goods saw when ran everyday they last bout 3 years an echo is a good saw to i own a echo 670 i cut up to 20'' trees no problem a few hundred cheaper then a 044 04 046
 
   / Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ??? #113  
Thank you Arrow for the kind words, and Treemonkey for the thumbs up. I appreciate that very much.

There has been some discussion of sharpening here so here is my 2-cents-worth. If I dull a saw on a rock or something I always find the dullest tooth and start sharpening there. I count the number of file strokes it takes to bring that tooth back to sharp, and then I file every tooth the same number of strokes. I always sharpen free-hand, using the lines on the teeth as an angle guide. I keep my rakers between 1/32 and 1/16 of an inch below the tooth edge using my raker file laid along the tops of the teeth as an eyeball guide. Still, sometimes when a chain is near the end of its life it will start to cut off sideways. I compensate by taking a couple extra strokes off the teeth on the go-to side to bring it back. Every time I sharpen I tighten. I keep my chains tight enough so that I can only pull the chain about 1/4 inch from the bar in the middle of an 18 inch bar. This alleviates bar erosion behind the roller nose on the top of the bar. As you can see, this is all seat-of-the pants stuff, habits that I picked up from the woodsmen that I learned from.
 
   / Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ??? #114  
I have a Stihl 034 that I bought in 1986. I've replaced the fuel lines and filters. Starts and runs as good now as it ever did. 24 inch bar. It is not for sale. Have a newer 026 Pro. Same thing. Have an 066 brush cutter with a sickle-section equipped circular blade that I bought in 1988. Same thing. All the folks who told me to buy Husqvarna and swore by Husky have had to buy new Huskies. Stihl lasts.
 
 
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