ghenges, if you bought a MS-250, that is a homeowner saw and comes with a green semi-chisel chain (RM3). You'd have to know to ask special to get a green full-chisel for that saw, and based on the thread, I don't think you did. So this is not an apples-to-apples comparison, which is a common mistake. Your new yellow chain is full chisel (RS). Your old green chain is semi-chisel (RM). People compare green and yellow with no idea that there are all sorts of different cutter types, and that is an entirely different factor. As we mentioned earlier, you can get both RS and RM in green or yellow. The color won't impact anything but plunge/bore performance.
Like I said, until the chain rotates around the tip of the bar, a green chain and a yellow chain will perform identically. The only difference in a green chain is when the safety rakers pop out, and that only happens when the chain turns the radius at the bar tip. I won't argue this further, but I will post a couple photos to illustrate the point for anyone who doesn't have both chains to compare.
First, here is a shot showing the cutter of a green RS chain (top) and a yellow RS chain (bottom).
As you can see, the cutters are identical (except the top one has been filed many times and the bottom is new). I drew an arrow showing both the vector of movement, and also how the depth of cut is set by the raker at the front of the cutter. You can see the safety hump in the background and see that it is both below and behind the depth raker, so it will not affect the cut at all.
Now here's a shot as the green chain rounds the bar tip. Note how the safety raker pops out in front of the depth raker, and you can see the vector here is altered because of that.
That is what makes a green chain resistant to kick-back but also poor at plunging. It basically acts like it has an extra big raker when turning around the tip, and the raker is farther out in front to cast more of a shadow that blanks out the cutter.
I won't belabor this point anymore, but I will tell you that you're falling into the trap of not understanding what makes different chains behave and perform differently, and this is exactly why the lawyers get involved and people have to sign waivers to buy certain chains. Your dealer really should have taken the time to explain all this to you, and sent you home with a green full-chisel chain (RS3). That would have done what you wanted in terms of improved cutting performance, not kicked back severely at the tip, and kept you safer.
The main downside to full-chisel, regardless of whether it's yellow or green, is that it will dull much faster, so you will get to a point where it actually cuts much worse than semi-chisel until sharpened. Plan to sharpen often to maintain the improved cutting performance. And please take the time to study your chains and understand the mechanics before diving in, otherwise at some point we may have to change your username to "stumpy"
. Be careful with that yellow chain, as it can bite and turn on you in a heartbeat.
