STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN

   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #1  

ghenges

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
93
Location
Greensburg PA
Tractor
Farmall
The Stihl chainsaw seems good enough, but I miss my old McCullough 10-10 it was rough around the edges, made your hands balloon up and sting from the vibration, blow your ears drums out noisy, BUT it cut like a damnfool.

Researched obtaining an aggressive chain like the ones I had run on the old 10-10.
Purchased one off eBay and installed it, but hadn't ran it.

Stopped in the chainsaw shop to attend to another matter. The great mechanic there saw the chain and asked: "where did you get that chain?"
Sheepishly I said eBay. He said:"well that chain is bent", HUH? was my initial thought. He straightened the improperly installed connecting link.

I said I didn't want to go around you guys but I wanted a more aggressive chain.
To which he replied:"we can sell you that same chain, BUT you will have to sign a hold harmless legal document absolving the dealership of any liability.

I signed the document and bought two more aggressive chains.

The cutting performance difference is absolutely dramatic, It's almost like I have my old 10-10 back again except I can't pull the Stihl out of a pinch without dislocating the suspension rubbers.
One thing has ended though -- no more plunge cuts. This chain kicks back quite easily, but I'll accept the risk to get back the cutting performance I remembered from years ago.

It's sad that everything has to be de-rated and dumbed down just to idiot proof the product.
(I won't be so emphatic about de-rating when this aggressive chain kicks back and takes out a couple of teeth and a chunk of tongue like my neighbor down the road)
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #2  
I cant believe they had you sign a waiver for chain. Sorry I'm LMAO. Probably just RS RSC chain or RM RMC if semi chisel.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #3  
I'd be curious to know the model number of that chain -- the whole thing sounds a bit fishy to me.

You would have a difficult time plunge cutting with Stihl green safety chain, whether full- or semi-chisel. The anti-kickback humps don't allow the tip to cut too good, so you can't bore/plunge very well. In contrast, yellow chain will plunge cut quite well, but you have to know what you're doing to do it without taking your head off.

They make many other variations, including skip and semi-skip. Both can make the saw seem to be more aggressive, but they have much higher vibration levels and might seem like they kick more.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Here's is the chain for which the dealer had me sign the legal release.

The chain has a yellow link.
The literature states:
"Yellow (caution) marks products with increased risk of
kickback injury. They are for use only by persons with
extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized
training
in dealing with kickback conditions."

StihlChain.jpg
 
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   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #5  
There's really nothing radical about that chain -- plunge cutting is the only thing it will do better than the equivalent green chain (which would be RS3, where the "3" denotes safety chain). Not sure why they made such a big deal about it -- none of the shops around here bat an eye when I buy yellow chain.

You will find that full chisel (the "S") chain dulls much quicker than semi-chisel ("M") would, so be sure to file it often, especially if cutting dirty wood or bucking on the ground. When it dulls, that will be a much bigger effect on performance than chain type or saw power. I run some full chisel on my longer bars, but prefer semi chisel for firewood cutting, as it lasts much longer between sharpenings, so there's a lot less downtime. On a busy day, I may have to file the full-chisel as much as three times, whereas semi-chisel can go all day long.

For anyone wondering, if you only cut along the length of the bar and never plunge/bore (as would be typical for most firewood cutters and homeowners) you will never notice the difference between green and yellow chain, so you may as well go green and get a little extra safety margin. Yellow is truly for experienced cutters who need to plunge or bore on a regular basis.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #6  
I have never heard of such a thing.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #7  
i got one of those green chains when i bought my saw. i used it for a while and it cut real good. but then it acted like it needed replacement so i used my dremel with a little grinding stone and ground off the safety bumps. now it cuts very quickly and i can plunge cut very well.
do they have red chains? they must really cut fast!
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #8  
Any saw that has 3.8"^2 or less of displacement by law has to have a safety chain so that's probably where the hold harmless agreement came in.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #9  
Ghenges,
What model saw are you running that chain on? If you told us, I missed it.
 
   / STIHL --A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN #10  
A red chain is too dangerous for most to use. I used one a fed times but after cutting through my boots twice I took it off for good.


i got one of those green chains when i bought my saw. i used it for a while and it cut real good. but then it acted like it needed replacement so i used my dremel with a little grinding stone and ground off the safety bumps. now it cuts very quickly and i can plunge cut very well.
do they have red chains? they must really cut fast!
 
 
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