Chilly807
Elite Member
The Stihl flippy caps are an IQ test. If you fail, you should return the saw and go buy a Craftsman model at Sears!
Unlike many people, I actually like them. My FS-130 brushcutter has one for the gas tank.
Sean
Return Stihl MS 250 and go back and get the MS 290?
- Thread starter Alan L.
- Start date
Unlike many people, I actually like them. My FS-130 brushcutter has one for the gas tank.
Sean
I have the older version, the 025 and it has been perfect for cutting down hedge and other trees up to 14", some even bigger. I put on a different drum (a rim drive, with a .325/63 gauge chain.) I use the chisel chain and not the low kickback and have it professionally sharpened at the Stihl dealer. It works great. Runs hard, cuts fast, and I'm pretty old (58) and I can run it for quite a while without tiring. I had a Stihl 180 that was very used when I bought it and I didn't know much about them. It actually was a good saw, just worn out, and I'd have one if I did lighter cutting. They are a consumer saw, but very lightweight.
141 = poulan
If you had the caps I think you had. You know the socket end of a scrench fit to turn off if stuck right?
This type use scrench if stuck and over tightened. http://compare.ebay.com/like/140596710222?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
If you had the caps I think you had. You know the socket end of a scrench fit to turn off if stuck right?
This type use scrench if stuck and over tightened. http://compare.ebay.com/like/140596710222?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
After all the rain I used my new MS250 for the first time yesterday. I guess its OK, not that impressed. Seems to have less power with 18" bar than the Husky 141 has for 16". Harder to start after it cools down, threw the chain twice, bogs down, absolutely hate the fuel and oil caps. Before I ever used it I spent the first 15 minutes trying to get the oil cap back on properly after filling with chain oil. Took about 10 pulls - choke, half choke, unchoked etc bofore I finally got it started. The saw had a surprising lack of power, bogging down on 8" - 10" material. Threw the chain on the first multi-trunk willow tree I cut down.
I found the chain easier to reinstall than the Husky (which has thrown the chain maybe 3 times in 10 years) and the adjustment is much easier. The saw did the job, but is not near the upgrade I thought it would be. Not sure what to do now. I cut for a couple of hours and the saw wore me out - I don't think I want one any heavier, but I am disappointed in the lack of power and how hard it is to start. If you kill it and then restart it in the next 10 minutes it starts in one or two pulls, but if it sits 30 minutes - 4 or 5 pulls and re-choking etc.
I did take down a dead willow about 30 feet tall with an 18" trunk. Seemed to get stronger the more I used it, but about the time I thought that it would bog down in an unexpected situation. Got it stuck in the cut a couple of times and had to cut it out with the Husky (which has a very dull chain on it because I cut trunks even with the dirt level with it).
I found the chain easier to reinstall than the Husky (which has thrown the chain maybe 3 times in 10 years) and the adjustment is much easier. The saw did the job, but is not near the upgrade I thought it would be. Not sure what to do now. I cut for a couple of hours and the saw wore me out - I don't think I want one any heavier, but I am disappointed in the lack of power and how hard it is to start. If you kill it and then restart it in the next 10 minutes it starts in one or two pulls, but if it sits 30 minutes - 4 or 5 pulls and re-choking etc.
I did take down a dead willow about 30 feet tall with an 18" trunk. Seemed to get stronger the more I used it, but about the time I thought that it would bog down in an unexpected situation. Got it stuck in the cut a couple of times and had to cut it out with the Husky (which has a very dull chain on it because I cut trunks even with the dirt level with it).
Coyote machine
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Take it back to the dealer and have them do the initial adjustment/ tune-up since you first bought it. I've had my dealer do this on each saw I bought from them. There should be no charge, and it should start and run better after having done so. Tell them about it dumping the chain- it should not do that. I can't remember the last time I threw a chain, if ever....
s219
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What you describe for starting after 30 minutes should be considered a cold start, so choke, pull 1-3 times until it kicks (audibly or by feel), then choke off and 1-2 pulls to start. Stills have a fairly strict start procedure, and if you deviate from that you're in for frustration. For instance, it will flood if you pull more than 2-3 times with choke on.
The flippy caps are a love/hate thing, but if you study them and the markings, they should be a no brainer. Me, I never had a problem with old screw caps, and would prefer them. But I can't say the floppy caps have given me too much hassle. Had a gas leak once when some sawdust got on the o-ring, but that's it.
Stihl markets the 250 with an 18" bar in some areas, but honestly that's too much bar for the saw. It can't oil it well, and would not have the power to run an 18" bar buried. To me, the 250 is much happier with a 16" bar all around.
If its throwing the chain a lot, you probably have too much or too little slack. Keep an eye on it . Only tighten when the chain is cold. On a hot chain, there should be a little slack.
The flippy caps are a love/hate thing, but if you study them and the markings, they should be a no brainer. Me, I never had a problem with old screw caps, and would prefer them. But I can't say the floppy caps have given me too much hassle. Had a gas leak once when some sawdust got on the o-ring, but that's it.
Stihl markets the 250 with an 18" bar in some areas, but honestly that's too much bar for the saw. It can't oil it well, and would not have the power to run an 18" bar buried. To me, the 250 is much happier with a 16" bar all around.
If its throwing the chain a lot, you probably have too much or too little slack. Keep an eye on it . Only tighten when the chain is cold. On a hot chain, there should be a little slack.
adirondackmtnman
Veteran Member
I agree...I've been running saws for many years and never have had a thrown chain...Check the adjustment for sure, it's easy to go too tight, especially if you adjust it when hot, but more likely you're on the loose side, being a new chain, they stretch quite a bit initially. As far as the flooding...Stihl saws are very finicky in the cold startup, and in my experience if you try to use the choke at all after they are warm at all, you're either done for a while, or changing out your plug.
adirondackmtnman
Veteran Member
I'm with you, I like them a lot. As long as they're kept clean they seem easier to remove/reinstall than the old style caps.