hopefully not a really stupid question

   / hopefully not a really stupid question #1  

BlackRaptor

Gold Member
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
382
Location
SEMN
Tractor
John Deere 3320
I have both my 24" and 18" bars now and both have the low kickback safety chains. I was wondering if anyone has modified their chains so they pluge cut better. I'm guessing those little guides in front of the cutting teeth are that make it a safety chain. If I'm off in left field and need to just repurchase my chains just say the word but wanted to avoid replacing brand new chains.
Thanks!
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #2  
Yes guys cut the safety bumper down with a dremel or grinder type tool.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #3  
Nice looking tractor. Looks brand new?
As far as modifying safety chains, assuming for a moment you haven't already used them, I'd suggest exchanging them for different chains, rather than trying to modify them. Plunge cutting is dangerous, which is why safety chains are less effective at it due to increased chance of kickback.
Unless you are a pro with proper training, reduced kickback chain is what you should be using.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #4  
Unless you are a pro with proper training, reduced kickback chain is what you should be using.[/QUOTE]

I agree with Coyote Machine a chainsaw is one of the most dangerous tools there is and if you are new to them keep the low kickback chains.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #5  
If you do modify the chain, do youeself a favor and purchase a pair of chainsaw chaps. Maybe even get a pair even if you don't modify the chain.

I have a pair of Labonvilles, reported to be the best. But I don't have enough experience with other brands to say one way or the other.

A Weyerhaeuser VP told me they now probibit the possession of any chainsaw on their property because of the danger. All their logging is done with heavy equipment.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #6  
I was using Stihl's green low kick back safety chain for several years. I decided it was time to get a few new chains so I stepped up to the yellow chain which is more aggressive. I was surprised at the difference. Cuts like butter... I have a 16" bar saw and 20" bar pro saw.


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   / hopefully not a really stupid question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks guys.
I would not call my self a pro nor would I say I am new either. I am 30 been cutting since I was 15. Started on an Olympic 12inch. Than moved to a stihl 010 at 16 and been using 18 and 20" saws since.
So I want to avoid cutting my leg off but would like a more aggressive cut, I need chaps I have the helmet face guard and steel boots so far.
Coyote thanks in the picture it was new just got pulled off the semi from the ga plant.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #8  
I have had old chainsaw operators tell me that, you are not an expert until a saw gets you. I have teeth marks in my left elbow, from an accident.

Had an old mcculloch 110, you know one of the top handle saws. was cutting a 4 inch tree, that had got bent under the tree I felled. Was using the end of the bar, but not the tip, to slowly relieve tension on the tree. The tree should of sprang up, but instead came toward me, jerked the saw out of my hands, threw me backwards, the bar tip swung past my face, cutting my left elbow, because the saw had thrown my arms up, continued to swing around, cutting a 6 inch gash in my coveralls, on my left thigh, about halfway between my knee and the hip, and I landed on my back about 10 feet from where I was originally standing.
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #9  
I have had old chainsaw operators tell me that, you are not an expert until a saw gets you. I have teeth marks in my left elbow, from an accident.

Had an old mcculloch 110, you know one of the top handle saws. was cutting a 4 inch tree, that had got bent under the tree I felled. Was using the end of the bar, but not the tip, to slowly relieve tension on the tree. The tree should of sprang up, but instead came toward me, jerked the saw out of my hands, threw me backwards, the bar tip swung past my face, cutting my left elbow, because the saw had thrown my arms up, continued to swing around, cutting a 6 inch gash in my coveralls, on my left thigh, about halfway between my knee and the hip, and I landed on my back about 10 feet from where I was originally standing.

Here is a perfect example of why those who don't have proper training should not be using a chainsaw to do jobs like the one described above. A tree under tension is even more dangerous than regular cutting and takes specialized knowledge, including and foremost to not allow oneself to be in the situation in the first place by removing all surrounding trees that could pose a problem prior to cutting a larger tree.

The operator is lucky the chain didn't cut his leg deeply enough to bleed out. That happens way too often and due to shock setting in and rescue often being too far and too late to the scene.
As far as being an expert as a result of being bitten by a chainsaw, that is the most ridiculous thing I've heard in a long time.

Chaps provide another level of protection BUT they are not a panacea for every potential leg cut situation. Do NOT rely on them to save your *s$
 
   / hopefully not a really stupid question #10  
Don't mean to be preaching to the choir - but if you ever let friends or relatives borrow the saw consider their capabilities. Some of us, or at least me seldom lend the my saws without an operator!

Brian
 
 
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